[tjblocker]

I'm doing many of the same things you are doing.

My wife and I are retired fulltimers. We've lived in an Arctic Fox for five years but recently purchased a 2022 3231CK fiver. We spend much of the year off grid in Quartzsite. Ours has 400 watts factory on the roof, and I plan to install an additional 600 watts paired with a 150 | 45 Victron controller. I also have 400 watts of portable. We have a 300ah lifepo4 (LifeBlue) battery and I plan to purchase a second. The bluetooth connection to the battery is pretty useful.

I use two converters. A few years ago I purchased a Progressive Dynamics 60 amp converter for lithium. I left the factory converter in place. Should I need to run the genny for batteries I would use both converters and this would charge batteries very quickly having a charge current of over 100 amps. Two converters loads my Honda 2000 pretty heavily but it handles it. I see not reason to remove a converter. Lead acid battery converters won't hurt lithium; they just won't fully charge the battery. I almost never exceed 14.4 volts on my battery in an effort to be gentle.

I plan to use factory solar prep, but I will have to wire the 600 watts in series to keep current below the 30 amp rating. On the Fox I ran 6 gauge, but want to avoid making more holes in the roof.

I also have 400 watts Zamp portable panels. These are real useful when I want to park the trailer in shade. I can move the panels into the sun. Having both fixed and portable has its advantages.

I plan to install my panels using strut channel. If curious please Youtube "strut channel RV solar". It's a cleaner way to do it.

Oh yea, panels in series don't generate much if there is any shade on any panel. That's the disadvantage of series connection. But the alternative is to run new conductor, which I don't want to do.

I have an RV fridge, but am considering changing the cooling unit to 12volt compressor using products from JC Refrigeration.

I'd be happy to compare notes or answer questions. Good luck
Tom