Quote:
Originally Posted by Coug60
So got the new control board in and no joy..... same problem.
So i reviewed everything that I had done.
In no particular order for this post I:
1. Jumpered the Sail Switch (there's a trick to it), No Joy.
2. I jumpered the Limit Switch, No Joy.
3. I checked the Burner Head, looked clean and new, No Joy
4. I checked the gap between the Electrode Points, 1/8th inch verified with 1/8inch allan wrench, No Joy
5. Replaced the Control Bord with a new one, No Joy
So a little voice in my head brought me back to the Electrode, the only thing I did not override in the system. So I pulled it out again and gave it a further inspection. The electrode points looked good, not corroded nor burnt and it was lighting the gas. The only thing and to this day I wouldn't have thought anything of it, the base plate of the Electrode was completely discolored (not rusted or dark, yellowish). So with a new on on hand I replaced it and BAM, everything worked like it should... Not sure if that had anything to do with it, might have just been the manufacturing process.
SO... after all that shut everything down and went inside patting myself on the back. A hour or so later went back outside to the RV to admire my work and started the furnace up and again I have the problem back... I have no idea what it is at this point. I can hear the Electrode sparking and lighting the burner and it catching, but something is shutting down the gas but not fan as usual. I replaced the regulator with a new bad one I found out so put the old one back in (gas leak on the right hose),
I have an appointment for next Monday for a tech to come out...
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As I stated in post #29, a poor ground can cause a shutdown. The ignition rod is trying to pass a MILLIVOLT through the flame which then has to be sensed at the mother board. The slightest resistance will offset that itsy bitsy current from being sensed. All components of that millivolt circuit should be suspected, including the ignition wire, its connections, and of course all of the burner’s metal mounting points. Using a jumper wire consisting of alligator clips at each end to bond the burner assembly back to the mother board would be worthwhile effort. In replacing the base plate, you seem to have temporarily corrected that missing millivolt pathway.