[Bill and Lisa]

I have to respectfully disagree with some of what has been said here. Here is what I have observed in my 2007 3000RK. The battery is directly wired to the DC distribution panel and so is the converter. The converter supplies power to the dc panel and as long as the battery disconnect is closed the battery should charge. In your case, it appears that the converter IS suppling DC to the bus as evidenced by normal lighting when plugged into AC power. The problem appears to be between the battery and the DC bus.
Lets start from the bus and work back to the battery.
Check the two DC Fuses in the upper left corner of the DC panel. One is on the line from the converter, the other on the line from the battery. I don't know which so check both. There is no red indicator light for these fuses - you must pull them and test them.
Next check the battery isolation switch, even cycle it once to ensure it is closed.
Next check the inline fuse. This is up in the battery compartment and is normally 30 Amp either glass tube or more likely a bayonnet type fuse.
If all that checks out it is your short stop fuses - those things with the posts. My 2007 did not have the self resetting type. Once blown they HAD to be replaced. You can search the archives for my threads on "Short stop" fuses for some pictures. The first short stop fuse is used to protect the hydraulic motor for the slides. The input to this fuse is a direct connection to the battery. The output goes to the motor and the second fuse. Logic would say you could check and see if this fuse were good by checking to see if, when disconnected from AC power the slides still work but in practice that doesn't work because the control signal (also DC Power) comes from the DC bus in the unit and if the second breaker is blown you will not have power (also true if the first breaker is blown since it powers the second breaker)

The nice thing about the breakers is you can put a voltmeter across the posts and see if there is a voltage - if there is the breaker is open (12+v on one side, 0 on the other). I would check those breakers and replace as neccessary. You "may" have to get replacement breakers from an RV dealer as most Auto stores don't carry them in the ratings you need.

The only way other than a volt meter to determine which is blown would be to open the battery disconnect AND be plugged into AC power. Then, the converter should power the DC Bus providing power to the slide control circuitry and the battery would power the hydraulic moter "IF" the first short stop is good. Assuming that works then the problem is isolated to the second short stop breaker or inline fuse.

Now, access to the short stop fuses is not good although the dealer had upgraded my unit to 2 6v batteries, he mounted the box fore to aft with one battery completely located UNDER the shelf. I made contact between my socket wrench and the battery terminals several times trying to take the cables off the short stop fuses. If you find my post and pictures you will see where I chose to remount my fuses (as well as remounting the battery box to the front of the compartment from side to side).

I hope that helps. Let us know what the final solution was.