Quote:
Originally Posted by drj736@msn.com
I found it very interesting reading all the posts about batteries losing charge. I like to start our fridge the night before we take off on a trip. Lately my battery has discharged to the point where I cannot operate the jacks. I am wondering if a fridge takes that much power or if I have other issues.
I have a 2019 38 foot Montana. This did not used to happen.
Bob
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If you have the usual (wrong) 12V battery and NO monitor (Victron BMV712 or SmartShunt) then the battery is probably dead or dying. If anywhere on the battery it says CRANK or the initials CCA or MCA then it is a hybrid battery, NOT a deep discharge. Solution is either plug in a trickle charger when you are connecting the battery to run the fridge overnight or plug the RV in. In either case you will likely need a new battery. The gold standard is a pair of Trojan T105's. A shunt is imperative, I bought mine months before my RV. Remember, ONLY ONE wire from battery (most)negative to shunt, all other negative wires get attached to the shunt. If there is more than 3 then put a marine grade busbar between all those wires and the shunt. Busbars are sized to the lugs being used, often 3/8" for battery connections. If you are not a full timer, and if you don't boondock often, then the existing wires are probably ok, but if there is an inverter in your future then make all the battery wires big enough for the inverter. A common size is 3,000W for most full timers, 1,000 if just a residential fridge. A 3,000 needs welding wire (super important) 4/0 GA and keep it under 3 ft. For 1,000 just 2 awg needed (welding wire). Marine grade (tinned) lugs, heat shrink, hammer or hydraulic crimper.
Welding wire is flexible due to many small wires (on amazon). Do not use auto store battery cables.
Message me if you want more help.