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Old 05-10-2022, 11:59 AM   #22
BB_TX
Montana Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,169
M.O.C. #6433
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsb5717 View Post
Thanks, this can get confusing for us backyard electricians. My understanding has been that 50amp RV outlet wiring is critical so as not to destroy internal wiring and circuits.

The diagram below is how I've understood it...that 2 separate 125v/50A legs come into the RV power center and are kept separate (yes, 250v total). If you lose one of the 2 legs of power then you lose half of of your outlets...depending on which items are connected to which leg. In order to install a 240v washer/dryer, you'd need to run wiring from each side of the power center, wouldn't you?

I'm wondering how the OP would be reading 240+ volts anywhere in the trailer since everything is distributed as 110v.
I believe the newer rigs come with a load center where the 50 amp breaker is in the center with sub breakers on one side for hot 1 and subs on the other side for hot 2. My 2007 model had a panel with the 50 amp at one end and the breakers to the right and alternating on hot legs like a home panel. I could have installed a linked 2 pole breaker and powered a 240 vac appliance.

The only real concern with the 240 vac is loss of neutral. Then, depending on the load on each leg, you will get something other than 120 vac on each hot leg. You might have 40 vac on one leg and 200 on the other. Whatever they are, the two will always total 240 vac.

As for voltages. 110 vac was the original alternating current voltage created. Later that was raised to 115 vac. And still later raised to the 120 vac in use today. Power companies supply 120/240 +/- 5% to our homes.

OK, enough for today’s lesson. Test on Thursday.
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Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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