2020 3121RL Hydraulic leak on 6pt level up system

[Steelers!]

Hi folks, new 5'ver owner with used 2020 that was beautiful on inside but mechanically neglected. I've been doing nothing but self maintenance the last 2 months. Noticed reservoir low this morning; put 1/2 gallon in reservoir on July 2nd after replacing inoperative pump. System has been working great, but noticed reservoir low so started investigation. Cleaned and inspected front area with reservoir, inspected all hoses for leaks, connections for looseness, tops and bases of 6 levelers, surrounding areas, small compartment with the room connections, etc... All was good! Eventually found fluid front left leaking out under the underbelly material. There are some funky nail gun style devices I will remove tomorror since it is now pouring rain. I will replace them with some self taping screws like are in the rear of my rig I found troubleshooting a water leak. I'm thinking the leak could be from the extend valve block if its there somewhere. Offer me advice or with me luck tomorrow. I will provide follow up on progress later.
Thanks

[Carl n Susan]

The manifold is in the battery compartment and if it is leaking you would have fluid around the battery area. The lines to the front jack run through the wall and connect to the jack in front of the underbelly. My guess is there is leaking line that goes rearward. Dropping the coroplast is the only way to locate it. You might want to poke a hole to drain whatever has leaked out already before dropping the coroplast.

Good luck and happy hunting!

[Steelers!]

Thanks Carl n Susan! I will drop coroplast panel here in a little bit!

[Steelers!]

Removed all the coroplast nails on the entire Drivers side and the machine screws for cross braces and found self inflicted leak source. Last week I removed the small 4ft Valterra sewer hose carrier and replaced with an adjustable longer one so I could have a longer sewer hose. I used the same two clamps but had to add one in the middle that required two new self taping machine screws. At the time I never thought about a hose being behind it. I'll have to confirm where the two ends originate when I have another set of hands. Also will need to remove and replace and figure out if locally sourced or expedite order from Lippert to AK. Currently all 6 stabilizer are down after auto level. Any ideas how to make this an as easy and less messy as possible would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[Carl n Susan]

Yes, there are lots of things laying on top of the coroplast. Lucky you to find a critical one.

Theoretically, as I haven't had to do this yet, you disconnect the cable at each end and pull it out. You do want to pull a second rope or new cable at the same time. Otherwise trying to fish it back to the original locations will be a problem.

The hydraulic line fittings at JIC 37 l1/4" thread. There are caps (3404C-04) and plugs (2408-08) for the lines. I have to believe there is an equivalent sized Male/Male connector you can use to connect a new hydraulic line when you pull the old one. Else, attach a rope when you pull and use it to drag the new line.

Montana seems to use hydraulic lines far longer than needed. Once the line is out you can determine (if you haven't before) how long it NEEDS to be. There are a ton of businesses that can make hydraulic lines (NAPA, Farm Supply, etc.) rather than waiting (and overpaying) for a Lippert one. I believe the original lines were around 1800 P.S.I. rated. Replacement lines are usually 3000 P.S.I. or more rated.

Once you have replaced the line, cycle the Level Up System several times (watch the hydraulic fluid level in the tank) to flush out the air introduced by the new line

[Steelers!]

Removed Comoplast and insulation sheet to thoroughly clean everything. Yes cable is way too long for such a short run. Will remove cable tomorrow and try to find one Monday. Its a 1/4in 3000 psi cable.

[R Time Soon]

Cable? System uses hydraulic hoses.

[ChuckS]

Most NAPA stores can build the hose right there for you with new fittings .. the hose will be ten times the quality of the OEM hose..

Pic shows one of my 9ld extend hoses versus new hose from NAPA..

I had NAPA make the new hose 7 feet shorter then the original one. It takes about ten minutes max to have a hose built

[Kyle and Lisa]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

Yes, there are lots of things laying on top of the coroplast. Lucky you to find a critical one.

Theoretically, as I haven't had to do this yet, you disconnect the cable at each end and pull it out. You do want to pull a second rope or new cable at the same time. Otherwise trying to fish it back to the original locations will be a problem.

The hydraulic line fittings at JIC 37 l1/4" thread. There are caps (3404C-04) and plugs (2408-08) for the lines. I have to believe there is an equivalent sized Male/Male connector you can use to connect a new hydraulic line when you pull the old one. Else, attach a rope when you pull and use it to drag the new line.

Montana seems to use hydraulic lines far longer than needed. Once the line is out you can determine (if you haven't before) how long it NEEDS to be. There are a ton of businesses that can make hydraulic lines (NAPA, Farm Supply, etc.) rather than waiting (and overpaying) for a Lippert one. I believe the original lines were around 1800 P.S.I. rated. Replacement lines are usually 3000 P.S.I. or more rated.

Once you have replaced the line, cycle the Level Up System several times (watch the hydraulic fluid level in the tank) to flush out the air introduced by the new line

Do not use a rope or string,use a fitting to tie the hoses together and pull the new hose thru.

[ChuckS]

Originally Posted by Kyle and Lisa

Do not use a rope or string,use a fitting to tie the hoses together and pull the new hose thru.

Yup it will make the task of pulling the new hose easier.. if you happen to have a male to male JIC union handy..

The various holes through the frame can allow the new hose to snag if using a string or wire..

I did not have the luxury at the time to use a union so wife pulled the damaged hose out with bailing wire attached to one end...

I covered the new hose fittings with tape and wife fed new hose from the pump area extend manifold while I pulled the new hose back to the rear end where the two main slide cylinders were at.

Had no issues pulling new hose through... wife fed the new hose and kept it from getting any kinks or loops while I pulled new hose to the backend

[Steelers!]

Great teamwork!