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Old 02-07-2018, 08:22 PM   #1
MARK A
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Ordered disc brakes today!!

You guys are as bad as the Harley Davidson forums!
I ordered my disc brake kit today and am looking forward to getting started.
It seems like the right thing to do, these big trailers are a handful in a hard stop situation.

Mark
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Old 02-07-2018, 08:35 PM   #2
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Man, that is the one mod I really want to do as it is SO much better than the drums. Post up some pics in you would. Just to make me more jealous!
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Old 02-07-2018, 08:40 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Golfmedik View Post
Man, that is the one mod I really want to do as it is SO much better than the drums. Post up some pics in you would. Just to make me more jealous!
I will take some pictures, I'm hoping it's as good an idea as it sounds.
I'm due for a bearing packing anyway so thought I may as well. The brakes on these things are smaller than an old 1/2 ton pickup. Here's to hoping.

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Old 02-07-2018, 08:36 PM   #4
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Let us know how the install goes assuming you are doing it yourself.
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Old 02-07-2018, 09:24 PM   #5
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Man I am pea green!!! The disc brakes are high on the priority list but not as high as the better tires and cushion hitch......


Might as well do the disc brakes with top of the line bearings and upgraded suspension all at once?
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Old 02-07-2018, 09:42 PM   #6
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Man I am pea green!!! The disc brakes are high on the priority list but not as high as the better tires and cushion hitch......


Might as well do the disc brakes with top of the line bearings and upgraded suspension all at once?
The brake setup comes with the new bearings. We have the 4100 Mor/Ryde and the Mor/Ryde isolater pin box, and G rated tires. I’m very pleased with the ride.

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Old 02-08-2018, 02:38 AM   #7
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I would love to do the 8k independent suspension upgrade to ours as well, but not sure about the funding for that one...
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Old 02-08-2018, 06:31 AM   #8
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Disc brakes may be the best mod you will ever make on a towable RV

Take a good look at those new bearings as some suppliers don't give you any improvement over the Chinese junk Keystone/Dexter
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Old 02-10-2018, 06:34 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Dave W View Post
Disc brakes may be the best mod you will ever make on a towable RV

Take a good look at those new bearings as some suppliers don't give you any improvement over the Chinese junk Keystone/Dexter
Thanks! I did some checking and found even Timkens are made in China. 😕
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Old 02-14-2018, 09:07 AM   #10
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Disc brakes may be the best mod you will ever make on a towable RV

Take a good look at those new bearings as some suppliers don't give you any improvement over the Chinese junk Keystone/Dexter
Dave,
Do you think Timken are manufactured to a closer tolerance even if they are manufactured overseas?
For the 250 bucks I’d gladly buy the better ones.

Mark
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Old 02-08-2018, 09:08 AM   #11
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I would love to do the 8k independent suspension upgrade to ours as well, but not sure about the funding for that one...
Ya, I don’t know about that one either. I personally am very pleased with the ride of the 4100 M/R on ours. If I was pulling it every day all day long, or even once a week, might be different.
If the brakes are as big an improvement to stopping as I’ve been reading I’ll be happy.

Mark
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Old 02-10-2018, 06:12 PM   #12
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I have disc brakes on my 3455sa and I can stop the entire rig with just the trailer brakes if needed. The difference is NIGHT AND DAY. I no longer feel the camper pushing the truck. I now feel the camper and truck braking as one.
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Old 10-25-2019, 05:25 PM   #13
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Couldn't be more pleased. The stopping distance is remarkably less. Probably the best thing I've done to the trailer so far. Tom at Stopyourtrailer.com was very helpful, I elected to buy new Timken bearings and races and I saved the China ones for Emergency spares.



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Old 10-25-2019, 08:52 PM   #14
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We had discs installed at the Coos Bay, OR rally in June. Went from the brake controller set at 9 to 4.5 and the rig stops much better than just the truck alone. We opted for the Timkens, and they were only a little less than $40 per wheel, and the outer bearing on the 8K disc hub is larger than on the 7K drum hub, so should be much more durable. This photo is at the end of the first short day of installation, still needing the plumbing and the controller installed.
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Old 10-26-2019, 06:22 AM   #15
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We had discs installed at the Coos Bay, OR rally in June. Went from the brake controller set at 9 to 4.5 and the rig stops much better than just the truck alone. We opted for the Timkens, and they were only a little less than $40 per wheel, and the outer bearing on the 8K disc hub is larger than on the 7K drum hub, so should be much more durable. This photo is at the end of the first short day of installation, still needing the plumbing and the controller installed.


Bob which disc brake kit did you use.
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Old 10-26-2019, 02:15 PM   #16
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They used the Dexter K71-908-00 disc brake end kits that are the 7/8k 13” rotors with 9/19” studs along with the Brakerite by Dexter EHB 1500psi actuator. Also used were the random axle install kit, new lug nuts, the Ford/Chevy controller adapter, and I had the Timken bearings used instead of the ones from Dexter. All this was put together by Performance Trailer Braking and was shipped to the RV park where the rally was held at. Their installer was there for a couple weeks and also put on a couple presentations for the group.
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Old 10-28-2019, 03:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
We had discs installed at the Coos Bay, OR rally in June. Went from the brake controller set at 9 to 4.5 and the rig stops much better than just the truck alone. We opted for the Timkens, and they were only a little less than $40 per wheel, and the outer bearing on the 8K disc hub is larger than on the 7K drum hub, so should be much more durable. This photo is at the end of the first short day of installation, still needing the plumbing and the controller installed.
Just curious why your calipers are mounted with one at 3 o'clock and the other at 9 o'clock?

With my Kodiak brakes the instructions say:


e. On 3500 lb. through 8000 lb. axles, install caliper mounting bracket at the recommended 3 o’clock position on left side and 9 o’clock position on right side. On the 9000 lb. and 10,000 lb. axles, the caliper is mounted at 12 o’clock. Torque caliper mounting bracket bolts per axle manufacturer’s recommenda- tions. (Note Fig. 1, Item 5)
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Old 10-28-2019, 05:04 PM   #18
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Just curious why your calipers are mounted with one at 3 o'clock and the other at 9 o'clock?

With my Kodiak brakes the instructions say:


e. On 3500 lb. through 8000 lb. axles, install caliper mounting bracket at the recommended 3 o’clock position on left side and 9 o’clock position on right side. On the 9000 lb. and 10,000 lb. axles, the caliper is mounted at 12 o’clock. Torque caliper mounting bracket bolts per axle manufacturer’s recommenda- tions. (Note Fig. 1, Item 5)
That is very strange. I noticed that to, but did not comment. Mine are all mounted towards the rear. So looking at the drivers side, they are at 3:00. Passenger side at 9:00
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Old 10-28-2019, 05:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prndl View Post
Just curious why your calipers are mounted with one at 3 o'clock and the other at 9 o'clock?

With my Kodiak brakes the instructions say:


e. On 3500 lb. through 8000 lb. axles, install caliper mounting bracket at the recommended 3 o’clock position on left side and 9 o’clock position on right side. On the 9000 lb. and 10,000 lb. axles, the caliper is mounted at 12 o’clock. Torque caliper mounting bracket bolts per axle manufacturer’s recommenda- tions. (Note Fig. 1, Item 5)
The installer said they were to be installed on the side with the least movement, so the would be where the spring bolts to the frame, not where the shackles and equalizer is between the axles. I don’t think it really makes any difference for braking, and the calipers have two bleed fittings so you can bleed at the top one whichever way they are positioned. I looked up the instructions later and confirmed what he said.
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Old 10-28-2019, 06:39 PM   #20
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I mounted all 4 calipers on the rear side. It makes absolutely no difference where they are mounted. A disc brake caliper will work wherever on that rotor and have exactly the same braking clamp effect and will stop rotation. A conventional (Dexter) brake will have a different effect as long as it's the Lockheed floating design where wedge action does the stopping. Then there is the bendix design ......early Ford and Chrysler products
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