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12-30-2019, 04:26 PM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Aquebogue
Posts: 120
M.O.C. #17988
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No Hot Water
Pulled into a campground while we are traveling, hooked up the water & electric. Got the hot water heater going on electric for a couple hours & had hot water, did the dishes, & had hot & cold running water. Now it's about an hour later, & we get no water at all out of the hot water faucets, kitchen, bathroom or shower. The cold water runs fine. What does the brain trust think, because I can't figure it out.
John
__________________
2010,3075RL, Hickory
2016 Ford, 6.7, 4X4, SRW
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12-30-2019, 05:02 PM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 4,709
M.O.C. #12947
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It sounds to me like, when you were moving, all the crud in the bottom of the water heater tank was stirred up, and then you used a lot of hot water right away, which probably moved some of the debris into the check valve of the water heater outlet, and now no water can get through it. It might need to be removed and cleaned out, along with removing the anode and cleaning out the crud from the tank, something that should be done yearly, along with checking the anode. This is probably what the check valve looks like: https://www.trekwood.com/products/14...-2Mpt-x-1-2Mpt
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Bob & Becky
2012 3402RL
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC 4WD
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12-30-2019, 05:11 PM
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#3
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Aquebogue
Posts: 120
M.O.C. #17988
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After every extended use the anode is removed & cleaned. The tank is cleaned out with a wand hooked up to a hose. I thought it might be a vapor lock so I removed the anode, opened the pressure valve & drained the tank. I replaced the anode closed the pressure valve & turned the water supply back on, opened the hot water faucet farthest from the tank. As the tank was filling the faucet was spitting as the tank was filling, once the hot water tank refilled, no water out of the faucets again.
John
__________________
2010,3075RL, Hickory
2016 Ford, 6.7, 4X4, SRW
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12-30-2019, 05:46 PM
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#4
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Aquebogue
Posts: 120
M.O.C. #17988
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Drained the tank again, & this time refill with all three hat faucets open all spit air till the tank was full then went dry. Turned on the heater by pass & I get water, guess I'll dig into it tomorrow. Thought I was to old for a cold shower.
John
__________________
2010,3075RL, Hickory
2016 Ford, 6.7, 4X4, SRW
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12-30-2019, 05:54 PM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 2,708
M.O.C. #7992
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Based on the result when you operated bypass I thinks Bob's idea is spot on. Inspect that check valve.
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2006 3000RK
2009 Ram 2500
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12-30-2019, 05:59 PM
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#6
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Aquebogue
Posts: 120
M.O.C. #17988
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Will do, tomorrow we travel another 250 & park it for three months. I'll dig into it then. I'll post the results, but I'm starting to agree with Bob.
John
__________________
2010,3075RL, Hickory
2016 Ford, 6.7, 4X4, SRW
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12-30-2019, 06:08 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 4,709
M.O.C. #12947
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Also, cold water enters the water heater tank at the lower water connection, no check valve there, and the hot water exits at the upper water connection, and what appears to be a nipple will be the check valve. You should be able to purchase a new one at most good hardware stores and some big box stores, if replacement is needed. I would also caution, if replacement is needed, go with the brass valve instead of plastic. They can be a bear to remove, and when I installed a new water heater years ago, even with the water heater out of the trailer, it still took a 12" wrench to unscrew the valve, as it had hex flats that a wrench would work with.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402RL
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC 4WD
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01-01-2020, 07:51 AM
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#8
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Aquebogue
Posts: 120
M.O.C. #17988
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Guess I can highjack my own thread & ask about removal of the water heater. Just removed the interior walls from the pass through storage & I see no access to the rear of the heater, also can't see any way to access from inside the living area. The only was that I see removal is straight out the side of the rig. Is it possible that they left enough slack in the water lines for the unit to be removed & then the water lines disconnected.
John
__________________
2010,3075RL, Hickory
2016 Ford, 6.7, 4X4, SRW
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01-05-2020, 01:27 PM
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#9
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Burnet
Posts: 85
M.O.C. #24564
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Could be a kink in the water line after the water heater. Using the hot water may have softened the line. Tension in the line caused the kinked line to bend more and completely close it off. While you're in there, put pipe insulation between all the water lines where they are close together or close to anything else. This will greatly reduce the noise when using the water pump.
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01-05-2020, 02:01 PM
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#10
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Orlando
Posts: 338
M.O.C. #22589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann
It sounds to me like, when you were moving, all the crud in the bottom of the water heater tank was stirred up, and then you used a lot of hot water right away, which probably moved some of the debris into the check valve of the water heater outlet, and now no water can get through it. It might need to be removed and cleaned out, along with removing the anode and cleaning out the crud from the tank, something that should be done yearly, along with checking the anode. This is probably what the check valve looks like: https://www.trekwood.com/products/14...-2Mpt-x-1-2Mpt
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Right or wrong this is freaking genius!
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01-05-2020, 02:07 PM
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#11
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 6
M.O.C. #21187
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We had the same thing happen last weekend on the way back from Washington in our 2009 3465SA. Removed the hot water check valve at the top rear of the tank and found the valve had failed (had to remove a panel under the kitchen sink to access). Replaced the valve and everything works fine! That would be the first place I would look. Good luck!
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01-05-2020, 05:22 PM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 664
M.O.C. #920
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Hot Water switch
I know you cannot be so lucky, but be sure the switch in the bottom left corner of the hw heater is on. Seen from the outside with cover off.
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01-06-2020, 07:43 AM
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#13
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Aquebogue
Posts: 120
M.O.C. #17988
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First off thanks everyone for the response. Bob (rohrmann) hit it out of the park first. Took a few days because I couldn't find a way to the back of the water heater, & finally had to remove a panel below the TV. Couldn't find a new valve on the weekend, so I removed the guts from the failed valve, & reinstalled it, now it's just a brass nipple. Works fine & we have hot water once again so all is right with the world. Replacing the valve is on my list when we get home in April. Winter well & thanks again.
John
__________________
2010,3075RL, Hickory
2016 Ford, 6.7, 4X4, SRW
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01-06-2020, 08:19 AM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Mesa az
Posts: 2,959
M.O.C. #5651
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For those that removed a panel to get to heater, how? Mine is under the short pennisula below the cupboards. The thin cardboardy panel between (inside) the wooden frame has come loose (pushed inside) and of course you can't pound the staples (nails?) back in from the outside. Anyone have suggestions?
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Tom and Gail
2013 Mountaineer 362
2012 Silverado 2500
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01-06-2020, 08:32 AM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Ridgeville
Posts: 20,229
M.O.C. #2839
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No hot water cold fine ..was on electric this has happened to us a couple of times, Can you switch to propane and does the hot water heat. The connection at the rear of the tank for electric works loose. but works fine on propane . When you say no hot water at all do you mean the water is not hot or there is NO water flow out of the faucet.
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01-06-2020, 04:59 PM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Alton
Posts: 2,713
M.O.C. #24086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twindman
For those that removed a panel to get to heater, how? Mine is under the short pennisula below the cupboards. The thin cardboardy panel between (inside) the wooden frame has come loose (pushed inside) and of course you can't pound the staples (nails?) back in from the outside. Anyone have suggestions?
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Maybe use something like sheet metal anchor nuts?
https://www.hansonrivet.com/threaded...ing-fasteners/
__________________
Daryl and Marianne,
2019 3130re 20th Anniversary Edition
2016 F350 Lariat
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01-07-2020, 12:50 PM
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#17
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Aquebogue
Posts: 120
M.O.C. #17988
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My panel was nothing more than door skin, & I cut it out with a razor knife, around the edges. I will get some 1" wide wood strips & screw it around the inside of the opening, with about 1/2" exposed to the opening. Then tack the panel back in & finish it with 1/4 round molding. So far the only down side I see to putting the valve back without the guts of the valve, is that after not using the hot water for a while, it takes a little longer to run the water before it gets hot.
John
__________________
2010,3075RL, Hickory
2016 Ford, 6.7, 4X4, SRW
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