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Old 08-13-2023, 06:39 PM   #1
Mroe
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What type of fridge to go to?

We’ve had it with on original RV fridge. We installed the fridge defender with the 4 exterior condenser fans, but here in the triple digits of Arizona the fridge just doesn’t cool. When we get to a cooler outside temp like Flagstaff it works ok, the Freezer works, Fridge don’t in hot weather. So been thinking about the Amish unit. Not sure what type to go to. As I’ve read about standard propane/electric ones, or the compressor type. I do have two 12 volt batteries and a inverter and a solar cell on the roof, so I think I can handle a compressor type, but just not sure what to do. Looking for suggestions from people who have made the switch and if your happy with your choice. I have a Norcold and I think the model is 1515 or something like that. All suggestions welcome.
 
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Old 08-13-2023, 07:07 PM   #2
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This video was made by one of our members. Lots of good detailed information and results.

Norcold fridge 12vdc conversion.
https://youtu.be/LHIgoWqiJ60

You can also find videos of people who installed the conversion kit from JC Refrigeration themselves.
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Old 08-13-2023, 07:31 PM   #3
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I wonder if there’s a place herein Arizona that has and can install a duel compressor unit
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Old 08-14-2023, 06:14 AM   #4
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I have a Dometic SL 1350, a double door gas electric RV fridge that has not cooled in hot weather since brand new. I have tried all the tricks mentioned on the forum without success. Last month I made the trip to JC in Shipshewana and had the 12 volt dual compressor cooling unit installed.
I am very happy with the results. The temps were in the mid 90's when they installed it. I parked it on their lot for a couple hours after the installation so they could make sure everything was working correctly before I left. In just a couple hours the fridge was in the upper 30's. It took me couple days to dial in the right setting for me but with temps in the upper 90's it maintained 34-36 degrees at the setting I had settled on. I think it would have got colder if I lowered the settings. It also recovers quickly after opening the doors to get things out of the fridge.
I am so happy to have a fridge that cools and I don't have to worry about opening and closing the doors as fast as I can. Very happy with JC Refrigeration. Very professional and no surprises.
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Old 08-14-2023, 08:21 AM   #5
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Duel compressor sounds like the way to go, but should I go with 12 volt or 120 volt? I do have an inverter and solar cell
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Old 08-14-2023, 08:34 AM   #6
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I you go with 120 V, I would go residential and be done with it. I think a new model Res will run on less current that a converted 120 V compressor unit (my opinion only)
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Old 08-14-2023, 11:43 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mroe View Post
I wonder if there’s a place herein Arizona that has and can install a duel compressor unit
I'd call JC's and ask them. They would be as likely to know as anyone. Great company to deal with.
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Old 08-14-2023, 09:45 PM   #8
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I just purchased the 12V dual compressor conversion kit from JC Refrigeration. I will be installing it soon. I've read through all the instructions and it does not seem too difficult. I've already pulled power wiring (#8) from the battery compartment to the refrigerator compartment; I suspect that was the most difficult part.
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Old 08-14-2023, 11:04 PM   #9
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I, like Scott, got the 12v version. It works great, even on 100+ degree days. Installed in June. Have it set to 0 in freezer, 34 in fridge.
No sense wasting energy with the 120v version using an inverter.
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Old 08-15-2023, 08:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harrisden54 View Post
I have a Dometic SL 1350, a double door gas electric RV fridge that has not cooled in hot weather since brand new. I have tried all the tricks mentioned on the forum without success. Last month I made the trip to JC in Shipshewana and had the 12 volt dual compressor cooling unit installed.
I am very happy with the results. The temps were in the mid 90's when they installed it. I parked it on their lot for a couple hours after the installation so they could make sure everything was working correctly before I left. In just a couple hours the fridge was in the upper 30's. It took me couple days to dial in the right setting for me but with temps in the upper 90's it maintained 34-36 degrees at the setting I had settled on. I think it would have got colder if I lowered the settings. It also recovers quickly after opening the doors to get things out of the fridge.
I am so happy to have a fridge that cools and I don't have to worry about opening and closing the doors as fast as I can. Very happy with JC Refrigeration. Very professional and no surprises.
I have the same unit, same issue in CA. Interested in this fix. Can you tell me the approximate cost to do the install and does this eliminate the LP all together?
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Old 08-15-2023, 04:26 PM   #11
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Neither the 12V version or the 120V (requires an inverter) version uses propane. JC Refrigeration also markets an improved gas absorption conversion if you want to burn propane.

Prices are on their website. If you want to travel to Indiana, they will install it for $400 + the cost of running power (the existing 12VDC service must be upgraded). They will provide you a list of shops they have sold units to, but note they have no control over the installation. I have chosen to install it myself. Shipping was $300.

https://jc-refrigeration.com/
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Old 08-15-2023, 05:28 PM   #12
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The 120 version will require and inverter if you want the fridge to run while traveling or BoonDocking the same as a Residential unit.
That's the reason I suggested if they went with the 120 version, you might as well convert to Residential.
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Old 08-15-2023, 07:00 PM   #13
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The 120 version will require and inverter if you want the fridge to run while traveling or BoonDocking the same as a Residential unit.
That's the reason I suggested if they went with the 120 version, you might as well convert to Residential.
Right; I said the 120V version required an inverter; just laying out the options.

Going residential would require more money and removing/installing the entire unit from the rig; not an easy job. And, I'm not convinced residential refers will last bouncing down the road. Just my opinion.
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Old 08-15-2023, 11:02 PM   #14
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Decided to let them install

I decided to let JC install my 12Volt unit. It was $300 to ship or $400 for them to install. It was worth the $100 for them to do it. They were done in 1 1/2 hours. The only down side was that we had to go to their location. We love the new unit. It stayed 34 degrees in 105 degree temps while in Utah in July.
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Old 08-16-2023, 01:44 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Foldbak View Post
I have the same unit, same issue in CA. Interested in this fix. Can you tell me the approximate cost to do the install and does this eliminate the LP all together?
I have had the JC Refrigeration 12v unit for a few years. Yes, it eliminates the propane. You just cap it off in fridge compartment. No longer needed. Keeps my fridge at 35-37 and my freezer at -19. Call JC Refrigeration in Indiana for a quote. They can answer all your questions. They are great to work with. Check out their web site as well.
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Old 08-16-2023, 01:59 PM   #16
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We’ve had it with on original RV fridge. We installed the fridge defender with the 4 exterior condenser fans, but here in the triple digits of Arizona the fridge just doesn’t cool. When we get to a cooler outside temp like Flagstaff it works ok, the Freezer works, Fridge don’t in hot weather. So been thinking about the Amish unit. Not sure what type to go to. As I’ve read about standard propane/electric ones, or the compressor type. I do have two 12 volt batteries and a inverter and a solar cell on the roof, so I think I can handle a compressor type, but just not sure what to do. Looking for suggestions from people who have made the switch and if your happy with your choice. I have a Norcold and I think the model is 1515 or something like that. All suggestions welcome.
I would recommend you NOT go with a residential fridge. The JC Refrigeration cooling unit keeps your same refrigerator box so no trying to find something to fit your current space. It is built far better than any residential fridge. Much stronger and thicker tubing, brazed fittings, not welded like a residential fridge. Made to absorb vibration, better compressors and better warranties. I had mine factory installed and got to watch them make the units. I know some folks have a residential fridge and works fine for them, but from what I have read, they have lots of problems in RV’s. Better to get something that is better built and only need to change out the cooling system in the back of the box. It gives you the same or better cooling performance and far less hassle. In my experience, its the only way to go in an RV.
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Old 08-16-2023, 02:25 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Mikelff View Post
I would recommend you NOT go with a residential fridge. The JC Refrigeration cooling unit keeps your same refrigerator box so no trying to find something to fit your current space. It is built far better than any residential fridge. Much stronger and thicker tubing, brazed fittings, not welded like a residential fridge. Made to absorb vibration, better compressors and better warranties. I had mine factory installed and got to watch them make the units. I know some folks have a residential fridge and works fine for them, but from what I have read, they have lots of problems in RV’s. Better to get something that is better built and only need to change out the cooling system in the back of the box. It gives you the same or better cooling performance and far less hassle. In my experience, its the only way to go in an RV.
I'm concerned about the draw of the JC 12v system...
We do boondock and the normal for us is to use propane when off grid. Even with the Solar 1200 with 510ah of battery, when I left the RV fridge on 12v one time, it drained most of the batteries within a day.

But, like others, the RV fridge performance is not good in the heat.

So, I'm trying to narrow down what impact the JC system has on the batteries. Does anyone have the info on how much current the 12v JC system draws?
Related, does the JC gas/elect system use the same efficient 12v compressor along with a propane option?
I'm sure they can answer the above, but hoping to get some "real world" feedback from forum members, especially relating to their 12v system and boondocking.

Thanks in advance!
Brad
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Old 08-16-2023, 02:26 PM   #18
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Looking at new coaches this past couple of weeks as my 5er is being worked on. Noticed that there were absolutely no propane/12V combination refrigerator/freezers -- they were either the fully residential models or 12V compressor models. 12V compressor models look very nice. As for my two cents, I recommend the 12V compressor conversion. Best wishes in whatever you decide.
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Old 08-16-2023, 03:37 PM   #19
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I have the Dometic 1350SL with the JC 12 volt dual compressor cooling unit installed by JC last month. I plan on boondocking in Utah this fall so I did a test today to see how much it would take my batteries down. Temps are in the mid 80's and the fridge is holding 35 degrees. I was plugged into shore power and my batteries were at 12.9 volts. I unplugged shore power and left the fridge at the same setting. The compressors were running every time I checked and after 6 hours my batteries were at 12.0 volts. We used a few lights, opened and closed the fridge a few times and it held at 35 degrees.
I am planning on using the generator to charge the batteries before going to bed and I wanted to make sure the 12 volt fridge would not drain my batteries overnight. I don't think it will be a problem. I know the compressors will not come on if the voltage drops below 10.4 volts.
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Old 08-16-2023, 03:43 PM   #20
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[Quote]I'm concerned about the draw of the JC 12v system...
We do boondock and the normal for us is to use propane when off grid. Even with the Solar 1200 with 510ah of battery, when I left the RV fridge on 12v one time, it drained most of the batteries within a day. Not sure I understand this; do you mean you left the fridge on 120VAC (through an inverter) and it drained the batteries? I could understand that. My current gas absorption fridge runs on either propane or 120VAC; only using 12VDC for control circuitry.

But, like others, the RV fridge performance is not good in the heat.

So, I'm trying to narrow down what impact the JC system has on the batteries. Does anyone have the info on how much current the 12v JC system draws? The information is on their website.

Related, does the JC gas/elect system use the same efficient 12v compressor along with a propane option? Check the JCR website; the gas/elect system uses either propane or 120VAC. I think you might be confusing 120VAC & 12VDC.

I'm sure they can answer the above, but hoping to get some "real world" feedback from forum members, especially relating to their 12v system and boondocking.

Thanks in advance!
Brad[Quote]
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