Anode Rod (Hot Water Heater

[RKassl]

once a year!

[mtlakejim]

Originally Posted by Montana Man

I have a water heater. Not sure what a hot water heater does...

There's one in every crowd. It's usually me!


PS: Here in the New Mexico desert there are times when the water heater is heating hot water LOL.......

[Charico]

I change the anode when winterizing the Montana. Check to see if need replacement if the old one has lots of craters doing their job. I bought a set of two from Amazon and it was 15-20 bucks and included the plumbers tape. It came to the house in less than 5 days. Better to replace too often and don’t need bad tank to spend more.
Easy install for new anode. Also a good idea to hose out any crud while you have it out and you are good to go.

[Montana Man]

Jokes aside, I appreciate the comments as it exposed a maintenance check that I've overlooked.

Now do you use a crescent wrench or an adjustable open end wrench to change out the anode?

[Charico]

I should mention something I learned when installing. The anode is about 9 1/2 inches long and threads in tank are about 1/2 inch deep. The anode wants to dip down when threading so one should be careful to align threads. I held it with my fingers to get it started straight. Then I used a ratchet with socket because it is easier to do it straight on rather than a wrench as the plug is at the bottom of tank and would be a little more cumbersome.
Happy Trails

[mtlakejim]

Originally Posted by Montana Man

Jokes aside, I appreciate the comments as it exposed a maintenance check that I've overlooked.

Now do you use a crescent wrench or an adjustable open end wrench to change out the anode?

All jokes aside on this end. They actually make a Socket like device that has holes in it for a bar to go thru. Some I have seen are two different sizes. A regular sockets walls are too thick. Why they build the tanks where a regular socket won't fit is beyond me.......


If your in a bind an adjustable crescent wrench turned sideways with a screwdriver thru the hole on the other end does in a pinch most of the time.....you shouldn't overtighten the anode anyway. Just snug plus a bit. Make sure to use Teflon on the threads though.


PS Crescent is actually a brand so I guess if your in the South it is sort of like asking someone if they want a coke, then asking them what kind.......

[Theunz]

And when you buy that Crescent wrench you need to specify metric or SAE.

[McRod]

Originally Posted by Montana Man

Jokes aside, I appreciate the comments as it exposed a maintenance check that I've overlooked.

Now do you use a crescent wrench or an adjustable open end wrench to change out the anode?

Neither. Use a 1-1/16" socket and socket wrench.

[McRod]

Originally Posted by Theunz

And when you buy that Crescent wrench you need to specify metric or SAE.

Left handed crescents are metric. Right handed are SAE. Everyone knows that.

[twindman]

What a bunch of comedians in this thread! Nuck Nuck Nuck!! Yeee-aaaa

[masterdrago]

Originally Posted by McRod

Neither. Use a 1-1/16" socket and socket wrench.

Def, def, def, definitely can confirm that the anode is 1 1/16" but make note the heating element requires a 1 1/2" bugger. Mine is 3/4" drive since I spent a lifetime replacing elements in water heaters all over SE Texas.

[mtlakejim]

Just to update. I went to Lowe's today and they have the special thin wall wrenches in to remove both the Anode and the Heating Element in a set of 5 for $19.00 in their plumbing tool section. You can buy them separately (if in stock) in the hot water tank element section. Speaking of which, should have checked the pricing on the elements. I strongly suspect that the elements in our tanks probably has an exact replacement in conventional home heater elements.


By the way, my 10" oilfield pocket crescent is named "Matilda" and like any good oil field hand it goes everywhere with me. But to be honest its a Williams brand. I know I know should have bought a Snap On......

[scattershot]

I change mine when it looks like it needs changing. I saw one once that was so used up only the steel rod was left. Try not to let it get that way. Mine develops some white substance on it, but it comes itht off with steel wool and water.

[R&JCovington]

I need to know if there or both 1/2 and 3/4 inch threads on the Direct Vent hot water heaters.
I have a 2009 Montana Special Anniversary Edition

Anybody know the answer?

[Daryles]

Originally Posted by R&JCovington

I need to know if there or both 1/2 and 3/4 inch threads on the Direct Vent hot water heaters.
I have a 2009 Montana Special Anniversary Edition

Anybody know the answer?

That would actually be a Suburban water heater.
There are water heater manuals in the files section.

These RV annode rods are 3/4" threads

Ozek RV Water Heater Magnesium Anode Rod Set – 2-Piece Kit Water Heater Anode Rods with PTFE Tape – Compatible with Suburban and Mor-Flo Water Heater Tanks - 9.25" Length ¾" NPT Threads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC5818R...BD3W42QTM9ZFYF

[Donjamin]

This post got me thinking about the condition of the anode rod in my 2016 3160 RL. I’ve never replaced it in the 4 years we have owned our 5th wheel. Today, I drained the hot water heater and put a new rod in. The old rod certainly had seen better days. I also replaced the pressure relief valve.

Don

[wed]

I do it once a year

[jimandjuliet]

Originally Posted by Daryles

That would actually be a Suburban water heater.
There are water heater manuals in the files section.

These RV annode rods are 3/4" threads

Ozek RV Water Heater Magnesium Anode Rod Set – 2-Piece Kit Water Heater Anode Rods with PTFE Tape – Compatible with Suburban and Mor-Flo Water Heater Tanks - 9.25" Length ¾" NPT Threads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC5818R...BD3W42QTM9ZFYF

I reinstalled mine after winter storage and it would only go in about 2 turns. finally used my 3/4 pipe tap on water threads. copious amounts of rust on tank threads . installed perfect after the tank tap job

[twindman]

I did this too, but went a little too far and the anode now goes way in. I have to use a LOT of tape to get it to seal.

[Daryles]

Originally Posted by twindman

I did this too, but went a little too far and the anode now goes way in. I have to use a LOT of tape to get it to seal.

When I drain my tank for winterizing, I remove the annod rod and use the Camco wand to rinse out any sediment. Then clean the threads with a wire toothbrush. Then coat the threads with a little Vaseline to prevent rusting over the winter. Then I put a piece of cotton rope into the tank to wick out any water in the tank. I leave the rod out until de- winterizing.
Then I clean the threads again with the toothbrush the run a 3/4" NPT tap into it. I only tighten it hand tight + 1/4 turn. The NPT threads are slightly tapered. If you run the tap all the way through you will make the opening bigger and will have difficulty making the rod seal.
Flush the tank out again in case any bugs find their way inside over the winter.
I Then wrap the rod threads with tape before reassembly.