Bed slide motor mount failure

[TAG51]

Hi,

The bedroom slide on my 3610 has failed. Specifically the motor mount has failed. The mount appears to be a thin sheet of metal behind wall covering with the mount holes threaded to receive the mount bolts for the motor. All of the holes have become enlarged to the point they are too big of the mount bolts. I can see no way of accessing this panel to replace or even put nuts for the mount bolts to secure to.

Anyone with any information on this type of problem would be appreciated.

Thanks!!

[Mikendebbie]

Add the year model of your unit so the smart folks here can offer better help.

[TAG51]

The unit is a 2015 3610RL. I had the bed slide motor replaced about 2 years ago. The shop did not mention any kind of mounting issue for the new motor. There is no obvious way to get behind the mount to put an additional mount plate or even capture nuts. Its always something.

[Carl n Susan]

A picture would help but have you considered removing the molding around the slide? I am assuming the motor is mounted on the inside of the exterior wall. With the molding out of the way you should be able to access the motor and the mount.

[Daryles]

There are many videos on YouTube showing

"Changing a Schwintek slide motor"

Hope this helps.
Also for the stripped threads. Maybe try using heli coils?
Available at auto parts stores. Again there are YouTube videos demonstrating how they work.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/t...s/ec39e02ab378

[Montana Man]

Is this what the motor and mount looks like? Not upside down of course.

[TAG51]

There is no molding. The motor is mounted directly to the wall panel which has a thin metal backing with threaded (now stripped) holes for the motor to mount to. I have no idea of how to remove the entire wall panel.

[TAG51]

Yes that is what the motor looks like. As you can see the motor is mounted directly to the wall. There is no "mount" that I can see. The wall panel has a thin metal ( 1/8 inch maybe) backing where the motor mount holes are (were) threaded. Now the holes are too big to act as "backing nuts" for the motor mount screws. Any ideas are appreciated.

[jcurtis934]

The idea is to not try to do anything with the present mounting holes. If the motor can be shifted for new mounting location and adjustments done to make it workable, do that. You can also bond a metal plate to the existing wall area and mount motor to it once bonding is cured. John

[TAG51]

Originally Posted by jcurtis934

The idea is to not try to do anything with the present mounting holes. If the motor can be shifted for new mounting location and adjustments done to make it workable, do that. You can also bond a metal plate to the existing wall area and mount motor to it once bonding is cured. John

Thanks. I have never adjusted one of these before so I do not know if that would work. But this is the best idea so far. Bonding the new plate is also a good idea. I will try moving the unit first.

Thanks Again!

[TAG51]

This is what it looks like.[ATTACH]10457[[ATTACH]

[phillyg]

I agree about bonding a larger plate to the wall. You'll have to find an adhesive that will bond to metal and the vinyl material. I'd use 1/8" aluminum. If you use bolts with nuts, you'll have to affix the motor to the plate first because you won't have access to the nuts. In the alternative, you could weld threaded rod to the plate and put the nuts on from outside. Another alternative is to drill the plate for screws, not too long because you don't want to go thru the wall.

[Daryles]

When I made my tilt mount solar panel brackets, I used jack nuts and SS knerl knobs to mount the solar panels so they are removable and can tilt.

Hillman 59126 Short Jack Nuts (1/4"-20) - 15 Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NUFMIIO...PS78ZFS6BKEYBJ

Like others have mentioned, mount a thin strip of metal to the wall.
First place the motor on the metal strip (centered). Mark the motor mount holes on the metal. Remove the motor and drill out the metal strip to install the jack nuts and counter sunk wall mounting screws. Install the jack nuts and motor to verify good fit. Make sure you tighten the jack nuts down all the way so they compress around the hole and fully grip the metal strip.
Remove the motor.
Use numerous short counter sunk screws to mount the metal to the wall. You will have to make holes big enough for the jack nuts to recess into the wall.
Mount the motor.

[phillyg]

Daryles makes an excellent suggestion with the jacknuts. I've not seen those before, and better than welding anything.

[Montana Man]

I would first determine what the screws were screwing into. Were they wood screws or sheetmetal screws? Then remove the motor from the bracket. Reattach the bracket the best you can with the existing screws. If they get tight, good. If not, drill holes in the bracket in between the existing holes and add more like screws.

[Ram Montana High Country]

same idea but I used: NUTSERT (available on AMAZON) I had slide pulleys pull off the wall. Drilled out he holes tp take nutsert but had to scrape paneling off the wall and then put steel plates behind pulleys. I made the plates longer and used original fasteners to hold them. I felt the nutsert would hold longer than having the rubber in the hole.

[John and Barbara]

use short hollow wall anchors. once set you can use shorter machine screws to mount motor.

[Ram Montana High Country]

I tried shallow wall anchors on closet track ... failed. That doesn't have near the load a slide motor. IMHO

[Bob and Jeannette]

Am I missing something here? I would use a larger sheet metal screw or tap the hole for a larger machine screw.

[Daryles]

Originally Posted by Bob and Jeannette

Am I missing something here? I would use a larger sheet metal screw or tap the hole for a larger machine screw.

The walls are only 1/4" luan. Keystone should have reinforced the wall here where the motor mounts are.