Easy fix for the 3820FK ref/fan problem

[jjfleck]

Well I finally got around to fixing the problem of the refrigerator shutting down when the front maxair fan was turned on. Like many of you, I would rather fix things myself than deal with the hassle of dragging the fiver to the dealer and losing my camper for a month or more for a 30 min repair. I've seen some of the suggested repair options and think I came up with probably one of the easiest. For those of you wanting to fix this yourself WITHOUT dropping the bottom and running a whole new circuit from the panel to the frig this is for you.

step 1- Open the refrigerator service panel outside the rig and locate the two green/white wires running down the left side of the frig. Identify the one that is spliced in with brown wires going to the cold weather heater- leave this one alone this is the power feed going to the frig.

step 2- The green/white wire without any splices that goes directly to the control is the one you want- cut this wire about 2 inches from the control and wire nut each leg on the control side (cut each leg separately unless you disconnect the power so you don't short anything out)

step 3- verify that the frig is running and that the maxair fan and the kitchen ceiling lights are not. If the lights and fan don't work and the frig does you've cut the right wire.

step 4- using a drill with a 3/8 pilot bit, drill a hole from the propane compartment to the frig compartment. Drill your hole close to the front of the rig right next to the steel beam. With good hole placement you should have enough wire without having to add a piece.

step 5- Run the green/white wire down through the hole and into the hydraulic compartment. Silicone the hole after you run the wire.

step 6- Looking above the hydraulic valves at where the front wall and ceiling meet, locate the orange/white wire that feeds the outside work light. Cut this wire and verify that the work light no longer comes on

step 7- Wire nut the two oranges and the green together and then wire nut all the whites together.

step 8- That's it- close everything up. Make sure all the lights work (kitchen and work lights), turn on the fan and watch the frig keep running. Pour yourself something cold to drink and brag to the wife how you just saved the summer trip!

[jeffba]

Nice detailed fix. You forgot one step. Prop up feet and relax

[travelcade]

Thanks. I'll get DH right on it!

[Eharang]

Any chance you can post pics of the wires. I am more of a visual person.

[Our3231CK]

Outstanding, we have been opening the vent cover first without turning on the fan, then when the vent was fully open, we turn on the fan. We experimented and found by doing this the fridge stayed on. If you can post a couple pics, I'll get started on your better fix to the wiring charlie foxtrot.

[Dusters]

Sounds Good, unfortunately my 2016 was a first year problem child and that started the ball rolling for others to know what was going on.

[Stump Jumper 58]

Originally Posted by jjfleck

Well I finally got around to fixing the problem of the refrigerator shutting down when the front maxair fan was turned on. Like many of you, I would rather fix things myself than deal with the hassle of dragging the fiver to the dealer and losing my camper for a month or more for a 30 min repair. I've seen some of the suggested repair options and think I came up with probably one of the easiest. For those of you wanting to fix this yourself WITHOUT dropping the bottom and running a whole new circuit from the panel to the frig this is for you.

step 1- Open the refrigerator service panel outside the rig and locate the two green/white wires running down the left side of the frig. Identify the one that is spliced in with brown wires going to the cold weather heater- leave this one alone this is the power feed going to the frig.

step 2- The green/white wire without any splices that goes directly to the control is the one you want- cut this wire about 2 inches from the control and wire nut each leg on the control side (cut each leg separately unless you disconnect the power so you don't short anything out)

step 3- verify that the frig is running and that the maxair fan and the kitchen ceiling lights are not. If the lights and fan don't work and the frig does you've cut the right wire.

step 4- using a drill with a 3/8 pilot bit, drill a hole from the propane compartment to the frig compartment. Drill your hole close to the front of the rig right next to the steel beam. With good hole placement you should have enough wire without having to add a piece.

step 5- Run the green/white wire down through the hole and into the hydraulic compartment. Silicone the hole after you run the wire.

step 6- Looking above the hydraulic valves at where the front wall and ceiling meet, locate the orange/white wire that feeds the outside work light. Cut this wire and verify that the work light no longer comes on

step 7- Wire nut the two oranges and the green together and then wire nut all the whites together.

step 8- That's it- close everything up. Make sure all the lights work (kitchen and work lights), turn on the fan and watch the frig keep running. Pour yourself something cold to drink and brag to the wife how you just saved the summer trip!

I did the fix as you detailed but have run into problems. When I cut the green and white wires -not the one with the brown added in- it cut power to the fan-the lights -and the fridge as well. Could my wiring be reversed?

[BandBmalin]

I finally got around to tackling this project and ran into my first problem immediately as I have no green wires. I do have pink and thought, "hmm, they must have changed the wire colors." So, I attempted to begin cutting and ultimately, learned that my refrigerator, kitchen lights, and fan are all on the same fuse. (yep, accidentally let a cut wire touch something ) What I ultimately learned is that the refrigerator is at the end of the circuit and I can't wire the fan to something else. (In the pic below, you'll see the yellow wire nuts where I was cutting and splicing and cutting and splicing...)

My big question is this: If I pull the fridge DC power off the current run and wire it directly to the battery with an in-line, 15 amp, fuse; will that provide the clean voltage I need putting the fan/refrigerator problem to bed once and for all?

(I put all the wires back together for now in their original positions. My fear, right or wrong, is that the battery voltage could fluctuate causing me the same issue I had with the fan.)

PS: We are always hooked to shore or to my truck for power so the battery is pretty much NEVER "alone".

[Montana Man]

Originally Posted by BandBmalin

I finally got around to tackling this project and ran into my first problem immediately as I have no green wires. I do have pink and thought, "hmm, they must have changed the wire colors." So, I attempted to begin cutting and ultimately, learned that my refrigerator, kitchen lights, and fan are all on the same fuse. (yep, accidentally let a cut wire touch something ) What I ultimately learned is that the refrigerator is at the end of the circuit and I can't wire the fan to something else. (In the pic below, you'll see the yellow wire nuts where I was cutting and splicing and cutting and splicing...)

My big question is this: If I pull the fridge DC power off the current run and wire it directly to the battery with an in-line, 15 amp, fuse; will that provide the clean voltage I need putting the fan/refrigerator problem to bed once and for all?

(I put all the wires back together for now in their original positions. My fear, right or wrong, is that the battery voltage could fluctuate causing me the same issue I had with the fan.)

PS: We are always hooked to shore or to my truck for power so the battery is pretty much NEVER "alone".

I am usually hooked to shore power as well. I used these components to add ventilation behind the fridge. They both are a/c powered and plug into the receptacle in the compartment.

[BandBmalin]

Montana Man,
I may add some additional cooling at some point, but my concern now is separating the kitchen "fantastic fan" from the refrigerator. When I run both the fan and the refrigerator, some times the refrigerator trips out and I have to use a magnet to reset it. After researching the issue on the forum, I learned that Keystone put the kitchen lights, fan, and refrigerator control all on the same circuit and it needs to be separated. I'm wondering if the voltage from the battery directly would be stable enough to run the refrigerator controls if I get DC from there instead of the current kitchen circuit?

[Montana Man]

OK gotcha. I've heard of that also. I would run a lead directly as you are suggesting then test run everything. If no issues then rewire it permanently. Good luck!

[jjfleck]

I was looking at bandb's picture and thought something looked different, so I just looked at mine and yes keystone used different colored wire. Mine are grn/wht and his are red/wht, I guess it all depends who's working that day at the factory and what their favorite color is. One of those red/wht wires is the 12v feed coming from the fuse panel to the frig control module. The other red/wht wire is going from the control module back up to the fan, this is the wire that needs to be cut. Splice that wire into a different 12v circuit. I used the wire that feeds the outside worklight right above the battery compartment door. Hope this helps.

[DanandBrenda]

Once you figure out where you are going to get power from. I would change the wire nuts to crimp connectors with heat shrink or solder and heat shrink. I had the dealer rewire my fridge to a separate fuse.

[BandBmalin]

jjflek,
I think the Keystone person doing the wiring also affects the order of things connected on each run of wire - ugh. I went back out and sure enough, no matter which red wire I "break", the fan and kitchen lights all run perfectly! I would feel better if I was moving the fan to a different circuit, but alas, it will have to be the refrigerator. (also learned that when I "break" the red wire on the left side in my pic above, nothing shuts off at all - not even the refrigerator. Not sure what that wire controls??)

We are leaving tomorrow for a long weekend so I'll attempt a rewire when I get back home. We're trying to go out every other weekend since we had to abandon our Florida to Seattle run thanks to a certain virus. I don't want to risk messing up this weekend's getaway as my wife is a nurse and works at a hospital and her normal 12-hour shifts are now extremely stressful 13 and 14 hours long before she comes home.

DanandBrenda,
Great call on the crimp and heat shrink! I will definitely do that once I figure out a solution I'm perfectly satisfied with.

Anyone know what size inline fuse I should put on the new line for the refrigerator? The circuit it is currently attached to has a 15amp fuse, but wondering if I should go to a 10a since it will only have the refrigerator?