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Old 12-06-2020, 09:42 AM   #1
DQDick
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Leveling blocks

Ten years ago we added Level-up to our 2010 and quit carrying the lumber yard in our truck. Now we have the HC as well as one with Level-up. We do plan to take the HC to some places that may not be level, but not often, so we're not going to add Level-up to that one. Those of you without a leveling system, what kind of blocks or other things do you find works best? Or should I develop another lumber yard.
 
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Old 12-06-2020, 09:57 AM   #2
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I use legos and lumber
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Old 12-06-2020, 10:02 AM   #3
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I always uses the lego blocks when I didn’t have level up system. Worked well for me and there lighter than carring lumber yard .
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Old 12-06-2020, 10:06 AM   #4
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I used to use 2X12 boards, but last year I bought the Anderson leveling wedges and love them. I am a big proponent of keeping the tires solidly on the ground and the Anderson wedges make that easy. Plus they act as wheel chocks at the same time.

Amazon website for Anderson levelers

https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Ander...ag=googhydr-20
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Old 12-06-2020, 10:22 AM   #5
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With all my previous travel trailers and now the Montana, I have always carried the lumber yard with me. I've been using the same lumber yard for over 20 years now, 1 pop-up, 3 travel trailers, and 1 fifth wheel. Why try to re-invent the wheel when something works!
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Old 12-06-2020, 10:27 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DQDick View Post
Ten years ago we added Level-up to our 2010 and quit carrying the lumber yard in our truck. Now we have the HC as well as one with Level-up. We do plan to take the HC to some places that may not be level, but not often, so we're not going to add Level-up to that one. Those of you without a leveling system, what kind of blocks or other things do you find works best? Or should I develop another lumber yard.
Dick,
I'm not sure if this qualifies as a lumber yard, but I haul a half dozen 2x8s, about 18" long. That's enough for about 3" lift on one side.
We do boondock (and moochdock) a lot, but I've found the above adequate. Sometimes it means a bit of wiggling, but any spot that's out more than the above, I will keep searching until I get a better spot.

hth,
Brad
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Old 12-06-2020, 10:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twopetes View Post
I used to use 2X12 boards, but last year I bought the Anderson leveling wedges and love them. I am a big proponent of keeping the tires solidly on the ground and the Anderson wedges make that easy. Plus they act as wheel chocks at the same time.

Amazon website for Anderson levelers

https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Ander...ag=googhydr-20
My question is, do they work as easily as they show in the video? Secondly, how do you get off of them?
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Old 12-06-2020, 10:40 AM   #8
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Without a doubt, I love the Anderson blocks. They have two super strong magnets on the top, which made attaching to your levelers a breeze. My rig does not rock or shake at all. They are expensive, but well worth it. Helps keep your levelers out of the dirt and elements too, which can save your seals.
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Old 12-06-2020, 10:47 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by 432bartman View Post
Without a doubt, I love the Anderson blocks. They have two super strong magnets on the top, which made attaching to your levelers a breeze. My rig does not rock or shake at all. They are expensive, but well worth it. Helps keep your levelers out of the dirt and elements too, which can save your seals.
I really do like the concept; I'm curious though if you ever run out of minimum stroke, especially on the front? Lots of sites seem to slope away from the road, and I've had times when the front jacks are much lower than the back.
But, this is our first Montana and due to pandemic we've not been able to use it yet; so curious if this has been an issue?

One other question; they seem like they would take up a lot of room; do they stack at all?

Thanks,
Brad
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Old 12-06-2020, 11:06 AM   #10
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I carry the leveling wedges to get close side to side. I try to prevent having the level up system lift my tires off the ground although many have said it's OK. I prefer to have them contact the ground. When I need them they also serve as wheel chocks.

I also carry a couple 4x8 blocks and a few 2x8 blocks. I like a single block under every jack but the extras are to help prevent out of stroke when the parking spot is not level. We don't boondock or park in extreme out of level locations so have never had a problem getting set up quickly.
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Old 12-06-2020, 05:26 PM   #11
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@DQDICK
They do work as shown. Place them against the tires on front or behind and drive upon them. Use the wedge to lock in place and act as a chock. To get off, you move the trailer a little onto the large wedge to take any pressure on the chock wedge, you remove the block and move the trailer off of the other part. As I note, I like all tires on the ground for stability. They seem really tough.
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Old 12-06-2020, 07:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DQDick View Post
Ten years ago we added Level-up to our 2010 and quit carrying the lumber yard in our truck. Now we have the HC as well as one with Level-up. We do plan to take the HC to some places that may not be level, but not often, so we're not going to add Level-up to that one. Those of you without a leveling system, what kind of blocks or other things do you find works best? Or should I develop another lumber yard.

Used all kinds of things; legos, wood blocks etc. The best thing was the Andersen levelers w/chocks combined with a Level Mate Pro. No muss, no fuss. Watch it from your phone app in the truck and you set right down on level. I wouldn't have anything else if I didn't have self leveling.
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Old 12-06-2020, 08:30 PM   #13
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My 2007 is still in the dark ages of leveling. I carry two 6”x8” blocks for the front legs. And two 6”x6” blocks for the rear stabilizers. I did buy a set of the Andersen wedges for leveling and got rid of the two 2”x12” boards I used to carry.
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Old 12-07-2020, 08:22 AM   #14
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I have meen using the Anderson wedges for over 4 years. They are 6 inches wide, which was the same width of the tread on load range E and F tires that I previously had. Recently upgraded to G rated all steel tires. The tread on these is 7 inches wide which means there is 1/2 inch of tire unsupported on either side of wedge when centered on tire.

I think this is ok since the steel belts under the tread is still 100%`supported. Fourm contributor thoughts?
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Old 12-07-2020, 08:25 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by kowbra View Post
I really do like the concept; I'm curious though if you ever run out of minimum stroke, especially on the front? Lots of sites seem to slope away from the road, and I've had times when the front jacks are much lower than the back.
But, this is our first Montana and due to pandemic we've not been able to use it yet; so curious if this has been an issue?

One other question; they seem like they would take up a lot of room; do they stack at all?

Thanks,
Brad
Never had run out of room on the front. For the middle and rear jacks, I raised the jacks up by one bolt hole. The blocks stack, so I put two stacks of 3 in my storage compartment.
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Old 12-07-2020, 09:51 AM   #16
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Never had run out of room on the front. For the middle and rear jacks, I raised the jacks up by one bolt hole. The blocks stack, so I put two stacks of 3 in my storage compartment.
Thanks!

Just to make sure I understand; the jacks are now mounted 1 bolt width higher off the ground?
And, what was the reason you did that?

Brad
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Old 12-07-2020, 10:57 AM   #17
432bartman
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As you probably know, these rigs sit low, which means the leveling jacks also sit low. I was worried about the rears scraping on steep driveway approaches. I raised the entire leveler up one bolt hole to allow room for the Anderson blocks to fit under them. It is really easy to do, and took me about 30 minutes to do the four levelers. Raising the mid and rear levelers did not affect the operation of the automatic leveling system. Everything works perfect.
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Old 12-07-2020, 11:23 AM   #18
kowbra
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Originally Posted by 432bartman View Post
As you probably know, these rigs sit low, which means the leveling jacks also sit low. I was worried about the rears scraping on steep driveway approaches. I raised the entire leveler up one bolt hole to allow room for the Anderson blocks to fit under them. It is really easy to do, and took me about 30 minutes to do the four levelers. Raising the mid and rear levelers did not affect the operation of the automatic leveling system. Everything works perfect.
Awesome, thanks again for the great info!

Brad
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Old 12-07-2020, 10:58 PM   #19
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Since I'm a carpenter and have an endless supply of plywood, I carry 2 milk crates of 11 1/2" sq 1 1/2" thick blocks (2 3/4 ply stapled together). Even though I have level up, they come in handy for sites that are way out of level.

Plywood will not crack and break up like framing lumber.
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Old 12-08-2020, 12:30 AM   #20
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Dick- I've built myself 8 sets of blocks to put under the level-up system. They are made from 1X8 decking. They range from two high to four high. Each level of the block consists of two 1X8X12 and crossed as they rise and screwed together and a handle added to one side of the block using either old canvas or leather belts. They work great and I can add or subtract the height of them for each ram on the level-up as needed.
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