Front sidewall frame issue?

[dieselrealtor]

Thanks for the clarification, I understand.

[8.1al]

For starters the outer wall is bonded to the inner framework. In the front are where you are working there is a plate welded to the bottom of the frame and the wall rests on this. Screws are used to fasten the wall to this plate. It is quite common for the welds holding the plate to the frame to break. Clean the broken welds with a grinder, place a jack under the plate to hold it tight to the frame and re-weld it.

[dieselrealtor]

The bottom plate is secure, but poorly placed when it was welded. Has a gap between it & the frame but the weld is in the middle so no easy way to cut/break the weld & close up the gap. It does seem to be secure though.

I bought some longer screws, removed some of the rusted/stripped screws from the bottom, installed the new screws & it pulled the aluminum wall frame down to the metal plate. The front cap did not move when the aluminum wall frame pulled down to the steel plate.

[Maddog]

The framework should all be attached. My father had a similar issue with framing. Had it reattached. Problem was fixed

[Reelcamper92027]

Just had our 2018 Montana repaired....luckily we caught the frame flex issue early on! Sounds like the exact same issue you are having

[Rhortie1]

Originally Posted by Reelcamper92027

Just had our 2018 Montana repaired....luckily we caught the frame flex issue early on! Sounds like the exact same issue you are having

Just curious how long your Rv was in the shop and where did you have it repaired ?
We are full timers with a Flex Armor roof and am trying to figure out a timeline.
TIA

[Jay & Bobbie]

Dieselrealtor, 1/2 flex sounds very reasonable. I haven't had time to measure mine yet, but if I have that or less, I'm a happy camper ( pun intended). I'll post as soon as I get a chance to take the measurements.

[Jay & Bobbie]

Finally found some time to spend at the rig. We measured the distance from the rear of the pin box to the frame just above the jacks (both sides) with load on the jacks and load on the pin box. The measurements were the same on both sides with only a 1/2-inch increase when the load was transferred to the pin box. I am comfortable with that. I also did a thorough inspection of all visible frame components while the load was on the pin box. There is no visible cracking. I also looked closely at the sides and did not see any cracking or open caulk joints.

I measured the distance from the front/top of the pin box to the underside of the nose piece holding the level as a straight edge, not necessary level (because the angle of the nose changed when the load was transferred). This measurement decreased 1/2 inch also when the load was transferred to the pin box. The measurement with the load on the jacks is 8 3/8. The measurement with the load on the pin box is 7 7/8.
This would explain why the divider wall in the front closet buckles slightly when the load is on the pin box.
Is there any reason to be concerned about this?

Also, the gap above the pin box closes when the weight is transferred.