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Old 08-09-2020, 10:05 AM   #21
masterdrago
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Originally Posted by Freemont View Post
Independent suspension, smooth out the ride.
Nice idea but I'll bet the frame still flexes when running over bouncy roads. Have you ever watched the rear (part that extends beyond the axles) flex during strong, short oscillations like on the 1097 Lake Conroe bridge? I've never found the "just right" speed for those situations. Our back garage slide out tray sometimes is loaded, but not over-loaded.
 
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Old 08-09-2020, 12:08 PM   #22
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Just the wall panel. Nothing to grip to.
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Old 08-09-2020, 04:03 PM   #23
Montana Man
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It helps to drive screws or other fasteners at an angle. It helps to prevent the trim from pulling straight out. It also givs the fastener a little more bite.
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Old 08-10-2020, 08:44 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Byron B View Post
These are called trim screws. Best if used with adhesive or silicone. Because of the very small heads, not recommended, imho, for anything in an Rv.
I just used trim screws to reattach the slide trim that keeps coming loose.
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Old 08-10-2020, 09:00 PM   #25
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It helps to drive screws or other fasteners at an angle. It helps to prevent the trim from pulling straight out. It also givs the fastener a little more bite.
Good idea. I had not thought about doing that. With the square piece attached to the back, it should be easy to get a countersunk flathead to angle in nicely. Thanks.
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Old 08-27-2020, 08:16 AM   #26
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It helps to drive screws or other fasteners at an angle. It helps to prevent the trim from pulling straight out. It also gives the fastener a little more bite.
Worked like a champ. I got all of the trim pieces in the living and kitchen back in place and then drilled and black flathead screws 2" long at a 45 degree angle. Nice and snug. Thanks Montana Man. I also used the same type of screw on the trim under the frig that I had to remove to get the unit out. Also had to glue all the closet trim up front with silicone adhesive rather than tack, brad or screw it. I doubt it will ever need to come off.
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Old 10-20-2022, 09:09 PM   #27
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Slide out roof

Our slide out sealing has a seem coming loose. What would be the best way to hold this back up? What is behind there to attach to. Also how long of brad or staples can I use? My biggest concern is making it look nice since it’s so visible.
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Old 10-21-2022, 05:02 AM   #28
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Ceiling panel sagging in the slide

Ceiling panel sagging in the slide? Wow that is a new one on me.
This question is probably worth posting to a separate thread titled “Slide ceiling panel sagging”…you might get better feedback rather than leaving it in this thread about reattaching wood trim.

Below is a screen shot from a Keystone Montana factory tour showing the slide edges. It looks like the roof is a sandwich panel. I would think that brad or pin nails would not bite too well if shot into the insulation between the framing members. I would assume the framing is aluminum. I would get a stud finder and try to located the framing members and decide if the sag can be reattached along the joist. I think the panel is glued to the framing in the factory. I am stumped to come up with a re-attachment method that will be totally invisible. Maybe someone here will be able to provide better advice.
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Old 10-21-2022, 06:11 AM   #29
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Looking at the photo above, the slide wall is made of the same material as the sides of the main body of the camper. On mine, even the thickness of the walls are the same (measuring at the window thickness on both. With that said, here's a close up photo of what the wall really looks like. I cut this out when I installed a separate outside shower and had to cut a new hole.

Next photo are the screws and length I used to attach the outside shower compartment to the wall. These worked just fine. But I also sealed the shower box in with caulking also.










My suggestion would be to try to pump some Liquid Nails (for projects .... not the original ... the original will melt the Styrofoam, "projects" Liquid Nails wll not)... behind the portion of panel that is sagging at the seam. Push it up tight and let the Liquid Nails squish out and wipe off the excess. Then lay the trim back on it's spot and use a couple of these screws to hold it in place. Once the screws are in place, use a small dab of model car paint (Testor's") with a tiny paint brush and paint the screw heads to color match the trim.

I suggest "Testor's" modeler's paint because it comes in a bazillion colors and the bottles are really small. You don't have to buy a gallon of specialty color mixed paint at Lowe's or Home Depot at $65 a gallon for only about 4 drops of paint. Check out the hobby and craft isle at Wall Mart or any department store like that (Hobby Lobby). I keep a couple of these around for covering scratches in my wood work to cover screws I've used. It works, and blends the screws right in. They will be seen if in a prominent location, but won't look out of place this way.

Good luck.
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Old 10-21-2022, 08:58 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod Spohn View Post
Our slide out sealing has a seem coming loose. What would be the best way to hold this back up? What is behind there to attach to. Also how long of brad or staples can I use? My biggest concern is making it look nice since it’s so visible.
A picture and unit info would help us. Are you referring to the trim piece that covers the seam? I doubt that the seam itself is separating. If it's the trim I would use some adhesive and brads. You could also remove it and replace it with seam tape that matches the finish.
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