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Old 08-09-2022, 09:35 PM   #21
Carl n Susan
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Originally Posted by amyed View Post
My element reads 115V in full tank. 121V at new switch. water is cooler then it was. Any thoughts?
Did you ohm the element to see if it is inop?
 
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Old 08-10-2022, 07:57 AM   #22
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Not being an electrician I would not know how or why to do ohm test. I was told by other campers to check continuity and voltage. Water is not as hot as it used to be. Does the difference (121v /115v) tell why? I guess I'll go buy a new 1500w element.
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Old 08-10-2022, 09:17 AM   #23
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Might be the element or the thermastat. Does it heat normally on gas?
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Old 08-10-2022, 09:22 AM   #24
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The voltage difference does not affect the water temperature. If you measured continuity of the element you measured the resistance in ohms. If it didn't read 1.0 (open, no continuity) it should be good.

What have you done that makes you think the water temp is cooler than before?
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Old 08-10-2022, 03:03 PM   #25
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Just doing dishes in the evening without any one taking a shower or any other water sport before hand. The water starts "hot/warm" for 20-30seconds then starts getting cool. By 2 minutes I turn on hot only and it is only warm/cold. Same happens with just the shower. We've been using propane all of the time for showers and do 2 shifts for the dishes
Water is plenty hot on gas
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Old 08-10-2022, 05:23 PM   #26
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It sure sounds like your electric side of the water heater is not working at all. It sure helps if you tell us the year and model of your Montana. The best idea is to put that info in your Signature which you can create via the User CP pull down in the second brown ribbon above.

There are two troubleshooting manuals in the Files section. They should give you a good start on finding the problem.

https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...?do=file&id=57
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...?do=file&id=56

The most common problem is a burned out (due to being on with no water present) heating element. Second is the black rocker switch in the lower left corner being OFF or burned out.
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Old 08-10-2022, 06:29 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amyed View Post
Not being an electrician I would not know how or why to do ohm test. I was told by other campers to check continuity and voltage. Water is not as hot as it used to be. Does the difference (121v /115v) tell why? I guess I'll go buy a new 1500w element.
To check the element;
- unplug from shore power
- turn off generator if you have one
- remove the wires from the heating element
- set your meter to read ohms
- put one meter probe on one element screw and the other probe on the other screw
- meter should read 10-12 ohms
- if meter does not register something other than the default reading the element is bad (my default meter reading is 1 . for an open circuit)

Your element may be 1440 watts rather than 1500.
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Old 08-13-2022, 08:41 PM   #28
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Well, I put in the new element. It did not give me very hot water. I started checking electric connections. I believe I may have caused my own problem. In the process of moving wires around I now have a very low voltage reading at the switch. Tomorrow I will see if there is a way to run new wires to the switch and element. wish me luck
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Old 08-14-2022, 08:35 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by amyed View Post
Well, I put in the new element. It did not give me very hot water. I started checking electric connections. I believe I may have caused my own problem. In the process of moving wires around I now have a very low voltage reading at the switch. Tomorrow I will see if there is a way to run new wires to the switch and element. wish me luck
There should not be a "new" way. The wiring should match the schematic shown in the manual.
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Old 08-15-2022, 08:56 AM   #30
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I believe I tugged the wire too much while putting new connectors on for the switch. (the old connectors were burnt) Can I have done damage to the wires that affected the voltage? I'm gonna wait a while before checking again. This is frying my brain.
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