Where should the smart shunt be located

[MandK]

New to this and I am sure this is an easy one for some of you guys.
Where should I locate the shunt? I have no solar and I may not add solar as it probably will not be necessary for the way we use the trailer. Plan going forward will be to go lithium when I need batteries and will then add a DC-DC charger. Coach is a 2021, no giggy box so there is parasitic draw when being stored hence the (-) shut off.
Should I put the shunt between the batteries and the (-) battery shut off or should the shunt go between the shut off and the load. My trailer sits in unpowered storage for up to 3 months at a time and I am wondering if the static draw of the shunt would be enough to draw down the batteries if the shunt is before the shut off. Putting it after the shut off would cause it to lose synchronization and be of no use at start up until one complete charging cycle occurs if I am reading the manual right. It says that the 712 has "ultra low draw" but not sure what victron's definition of that is.
TIA

[dhuhn]

The shunt should be on neg side of your batteries.

[Carl n Susan]

My cutoff switch is the first connection from the negative side of the battery. The shunt and other connections come after it. When the battery is disconnected, you can't read the voltage. But I don't disconnect except when the RV goes in for service/repair. Simply turning the disconnect switch will show the current battery state of charge if you want to know.

[Our3231CK]

Does anyone know if there are photos anywhere of those components in the front compartment. I'm trying to ID all the new stuff in the solar package so I can get familiar with them.

[RMcNeal]

I set mine up like Carl said. I go from the battery negative terminal to my cutoff switch, I use a knife style switch instead of the round turn style.
After that, the shunt sits on the same plywood board as the cutoff switch. As Carl said, you can't read battery state when disconnected, but a flip of the switch will give you a current state reading just fine.

[MandK]

Thanks guys. I think I’m going to set it up as you said, after the disconnect.
I was able to find out that there will be a few parameters that i won’t get because they are not stored in the non-volatile memory and it will have to go through a full charge cycle before it synchronizes but it will give me volts and draw/gain immediately so that’s fine.
Apparently the draw on the battery if the shunt was put between the battery and the disconnect is <1 milliamp so it won’t draw the batteries down any faster than what they just naturally loose sitting there, but this way it removes all doubt and everything is disconnected. Thanks again.

[Greg n Tracy]

Note: the shunt only measures current in and out that passes thru the shunt. ALL negative connections MUST happen before the shunt, meaning NO negative connections between the shunt and the battery.

[Foldbak]

Instructions
https://www.victronenergy.com/media/...tallation.html

[rames14]

Rick Jones, download the Keystone app and go into the manuals section to view you solar manual including settings. You can also join the Factory Solar Facebook page (open to factory installed solar only).

[Our3231CK]

Thank you, it's a lot to digest. Glad i have some time to read and look at the photos

[MandK]

Originally Posted by Foldbak

Instructions
https://www.victronenergy.com/media/...tallation.html

I installed the BM last week. I put the shunt so that the disconnect (Blue circle) is between the battery and the shunt so that the shunt goes dead when the trailer is in storage.
If I had put the shunt before the disconnect, (red circle) between the disconnect and the battery, when the trailer is in storage there would be a 1 milliamp (negligible) parasitic load on the batteries to maintain the volatile memory of the BM.

[Foldbak]

The parasitic draw of the smart shunt is 1mA. It would take a year or longer to kill one 100ah LA battery.

[MandK]

Yep, the natural loss of the batteries just sitting there disconnected is more than the shunt but the only things I am loosing by the shunt not being hooked up is actual state of charge and time left until the charge floor is reached. When the volatile memory is lost, the BM thinks that as soon as you turn it on, no matter what the soc is, it says it’s 100% until it goes through one complete charge cycle. It still shows accurate voltage so I know the battery state and by the time I get it home from the storage yard, it will be synchronized and all the parameters will be available.