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Just for basic conversation ... you RV fridge runs off an ammonia and water mixture that is heated up by propane or electric heating element. As it's heated it turns into a gaseous mixture travels a bit farther in the system and then cools back into a liquid ... all in a continuous cycle. When your are in extended subfreezing tempertures this cycle stops and the mixture actually "slushes up" for no better word. Until the outside air temp rises up enough for the slush to thaw allowing the gas /liquid cycle to work again your cooling inside the frige wil be diminished ... period. Some have made the inside frige light stay on greating a "load" for the system to work on. Some have added a low wattage light inside the back of the fridge where the coils are located ... some have blocked off some of the venting also in the rear of the unit. I don't support the last two options as I feel the chance of fire just flat isn't worth it. Norcold has come out with a mod to help a gas absorbtion fridge better handle long term cold, I just don't know what it is.
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