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Old 06-13-2020, 08:37 PM   #1
432bartman
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Raised the stabilizers

I had bought (6) of the Anderson Trailer Jack Blocks for my six stabilizers. I recalled someone else running into an issue on the rear four stabilizers being to low to get the Anderson blocks underneath them, and that they raised their stabilizer up. Glad I double checked the height on the back four, because they were about an inch to low. Using air tools, I had all four stabilizers raised up one hole within thirty minutes. Each stabilizer has (6) 19mm bolts and nuts. In addition to raising the stabilizers for the Anderson blocks, I'm a little more relieved at the rear back two being up higher, for added clearance with steep driveway approaches/descents. The Anderson blocks are magnetized on the top and attach right to the bottom of your stabilizers.
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Old 06-17-2020, 06:28 AM   #2
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After you raised the jacks, is there any calibration required for the auto-level? It would seem the jacks would just ground like usual and find center like usual.

This task has been on my list for a while, just haven't found the motivation to crawl around on the ground in this 90+ degree heat coupled with 700% humidity.
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Old 04-13-2023, 08:48 AM   #3
JamesDean334
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I know this is an old thread and it seems to have fizzled out, but...
I need to raise the front leveling cylinders position on our Montana, to prevent the feet dragging. We're new to a fifth wheel and Lippert autoleveling and all the fancy stuff that comes with them. Does raising the cylinders entail just that: raising the cylinders? Probably an ignorant question, but at this point it's free to ask an ignorant question. Better than asking for a recommendation on how to fix what I've jacked up (pun intended LOL) by not asking the question. Thank!!
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Old 04-13-2023, 10:12 AM   #4
Richard Blackwell
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Been there, done that...just a matter of removing mounting bolts then moving the jack housing up in place and re-installing mounting bolts...moved ours up 3". Confirmed with Lippert that doing so did NOT void the warranty which was valid at the time of the change. I moved all six jacks up, not just the front pair.
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Old 04-13-2023, 10:14 AM   #5
432bartman
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I raised mine rear 4 levelers 1 bolt height and no issues with anything. It took literally 15 minutes to do all 4
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Old 04-13-2023, 10:40 AM   #6
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"Ignorant question" answered! Thanks for the input!
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Old 04-13-2023, 11:08 AM   #7
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I raised mine about 3 years ago. I bought the socket that fit the bolts and a hand breaker bar. Worked great. As a side benefit, that same socket and breaker bar fits the stud bolts on the trailer wheels. Now THAT works like a champ for the wheels. Double purpose, that's what excites me the most!
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Old 04-13-2023, 11:13 AM   #8
Carl n Susan
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A couple of tips re moving the jacks up.

The torque spec for the bolts is 52-64 ft/lbs
Ref: https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...?do=file&id=41 Page 5 Bullet Point #2

The nuts are of the flange style. Apply torque to the bolt, not the nut.
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Old 04-14-2023, 08:14 AM   #9
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Jacks lifted and properly torqued! Thanks everyone for the assist! I'm sure there will be more opportunities for me to seek assistance as we're just getting started in the world of the fifth wheel. So far, we are very well pleased with our 'new to us' Montana.
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Old 04-14-2023, 11:05 AM   #10
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One further "tip" on having raised your jack(s)...you will want to have blocks of some sort/fashion to place under those jacks...without blocks, the jacks are extending further to reach ground level, placing the rig on a higher "wobble" plain. The less those jacks extend, the less jack "wobble" or rig motion movement you get...speaking from experience...safe travels and enjoy that rig.
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Old 04-14-2023, 04:56 PM   #11
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One other word about moving those jacks up, in addition to the extended length and "wobble"....

If you are on any slight incline and the jacks extend down farther, they will stroke out. I always put lumber (6x6 or 4x6 blocks under the jacks to shorten the distance they have to extend). I've experienced too many stroke-outs by over extending.
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Old 04-18-2023, 12:37 PM   #12
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Thanks! I have blocks, in pairs, from 1.75" to 4.5" that I assembled from some leftover 12" LVL, PT 2x6, and 5/4" PT deck boards that I keep in the truck bed just for this purpose. Last trip out, this past weekend, we experienced none of the 'pad drag' that we had before.
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Old 04-20-2023, 06:12 PM   #13
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I did the same, but didn't raise the 2 front jacks, I probably should because we typically don't have enough height to auto level with the Anderson blocks under the front, It faults out saying it is grounding jacks. I agree the rig is a lot more stable on the blocks.
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Old 04-20-2023, 08:43 PM   #14
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Anyone using Ox Blox Maxx? Same price as the Andersons.
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Old 04-21-2023, 05:16 AM   #15
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The problem with using those kind of "blocks" is the fact they come in one size. What happens when you are parked on an incline and the "block" is just way too tall or still way too short. That's why I always carry an assortment of lumber in different thicknesses and sizes, from 1/4 inch to 6 inches thick. If you travel, you just never really know how level the camp site pad is going to be. Even with it's posted the site is level, it can still be off and with a longer trailer, even a slight 1% incline can mean the ground distance between the front and rear of the trailer could be different several inches when the trailer is level. That's why I use lumber and not those plastic bucket blocks or Lego Blocks.
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Old 04-21-2023, 08:46 AM   #16
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I use the Anderson's and love them. A lot more stability. Can only use them on the front. They don't clear the rear jacks.
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