Auto Level Calibration

[Montana Man]

When checking the level on our trailer there are few surfaces that are actually level front to back and side to side. We end up opening the bathroom door halfway and see which way it swings.

In order to calibrate the auto level I just thought to use my self leveling laser level. I measured the horizontal beam to the floor in both axis. After manually adjusting the jacks to level it, I reset the calibration.

Upon taking the trailer out of level and auto leveling a few times I found that it returns to near level of varying degrees. Clearly auto level is an approximation but accurately calibrating this way made it easy.

[Lee-CI]

Wow - quite the far cry from days of yesteryear when the front jacks had an interconnect shaft and we had to guesstimate how many blocks would be required beneath the low side tires and front jack to bring the fiver to level. I feel spoiled now days when hitting autolevel after leveling side to side with curved leveling blocks beneath rhe low side tires. Leveling used to be an art form. Now days it seems to be little more than pushing a button and going on about one's setup business until hearing the satisfying "completed beep". My how far times have changed.....

[Foldbak]

That a great idea and I've tried the same. What I found is that the floor isn't level anywhere. I ended up using the basement floor as a reference since it sits on the frame rails.

[Lee-CI]

We do the same with the basement floor Tony as a "gut check". Guess I'm just too just too old school to be fully comfortable with all the new fangled bells and whistles on our units now days.

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by Lee-CI

We do the same with the basement floor Tony as a "gut check". Guess I'm just too just too old school to be fully comfortable with all the new fangled bells and whistles on our units now days.

Lee the new fangled stuff is great when it works! I ended up leveling the trailer and putting bubble levels on the pin box and double check after auto level. Last weekend after auto level the nose was 3" high So I put it in manual and dropped the nose. Auto still read level

[Rotnjonny]

I had found that my nose was consistently high when using the auto level. So when I had it nice and level and verified with several measurements throughout my unit, I reset the “zero calibration”. I have found in my case, it is holding this value consistently and returns to this “zero” and no longer “nose high”

[Jeffrey]

The bottom of your freezer is the best place to level your rig, I'll bet if thats level you will be close on all other places, or very close!

[DutchmenSport]

I always used a carpenter's level on the frame of the entrance door. On a previous camper, the floor actually had an arch to it. If one thing in the camper was level, something else was off. I had to pick a spot that would satisfy everything. I used the frame of the entrance door. Put the level in an upright position and brace it tight against the back stop on the door. Turn it one direction you get the the side-to-side level. Turn it 90 degrees and you get the front to back level.

I've been doing it that way ever since. The outer skin and door frame should always be parallel to the trailer frame (should be). And on my previous trailer it was .... except the top of the frame had the arch, not the bottom. So, from the bottom it WOULD level straight, but inside, the table top, the cabinet doors, the stove and the refrigerator were all rolling both directions. That's when I started using the door frame. This worked well for the next 3 trailers, including my Montana. After getting the Montana level, then I did the, push the button 7 or 9 times and I've never had to do it again, even when I moved the back 4 jacks up higher.

I suppose there is no right or wrong way to do it. But if you still find a cabinet door that swings open, or if you find your eggs rolling to one side of the frying pan on the stove, rest assured, your frame may be level, but there's no guarantee everything else is.

[Montana Man]

Originally Posted by Jeffrey

The bottom of your freezer is the best place to level your rig, I'll bet if thats level you will be close on all other places, or very close!

I used that spot on a previous trailer. But the fridge wasn’t mounted on a slide either.

[MARK A]

Your refrigerator is the only thing that really cares

[beeje]

I haven't messed with the auto level feature in years it's too much of a pain in the butt. I got the unit level manually using a 6 ft level in the center of the trailer in both directions on the floor then I put Hopkins graduated stick on levelers on the side and the front and just adjust till it's perfect according to those levels. I can do it way faster this way

[BuckandTeresa]

I have tried pretty much everything. The auto-leveller on my 2019 MHC was consistently wrong. I used a precision carpenter's level with digital readout to check level on the entry floor and on the island cabinet top. I then attached small bubble levels near the auto-levelling control panel. This is a good way to get close after the auto-level process. The best way, however, is really old school. As others have noted here, nothing is level or even matches anything else on the trailer. So, what we have found works best is "The Coke Can Test." After I have used the auto-leveller and touched it up with the applied bubble levels, I stand by the leveler panel while she sets a full coke can on the counter and checks if it rolls forward or back or left or right. She then yells at me to raise whatever side is low with the jacks until the coke can doesn't roll any more. This is easy, quick, and works surprisingly well. I have tried it with the floor but it is not as level as the island cabinet (which is not exactly level either, but close.) If the auto leveller is more than a little off, I do this procedure, then reset the "level" position on the electronic leveller panel (you can google it).

[ChuckS]

Recalibrated Zero Point set about 10 years ago.. Use Auto level every time we set up.. Never lifts a tire off the ground and always nice and level front to back and side to side.. Six point hydraulic system..
I un hitch, have the wood blocks I built underneath each leveler pad and hit auto level..

While auto level is running I am rolling out the shore power cable.. etc

[Lee-CI]

I've read of instances where the rear sensor was loosely / poorly mounted. That could definitely cause the autolevel systems to produce poor leveling operation after the sensor shifted slightly during travels.

[Jim in Halifax]

A hint to level RV's using a long level....Put two coins on the floor and then sit the level on top of them one at each end and you will get a true "level" reading

[77cruiser]

Glass of water on top of the stove, close enough.

[Montana Man]

This is funny. We put a man on the moon but leveling a trailer is still done with bubble levels, coke cans, coins, or who knows what else. If nothing else, hydraulic jacks are way better than the old leveling blocks under the tires.