Leaf spring hanger bent

[jeffba]

I lost a bolt for my right rear leaf spring. I need to bend the one side in a bit.

Any Ideas how to do that?

that is some pretty stout steel.

Thanks

[MaxwellD]

Jeff, I have not done this on the spring hanger, but other applications I have used a propane torch to heat metal almost red hot and then whacked it with a hammer to get what I needed. A wet towel heat sink around adjacent structures would be a good idea if you decide to do this bc there is a risk of starting a fire. Not sure if this method might also weaken the steel? Keep a fire extinguisher close by.

[rohrmann]

I had the same thing happen last year. I used a couple of C-clamps to pull the bent side together far enough to get the bolt in and the nut on it. Yeah, they use some really stout steel for those hangers. I would not use heat as that might change the temper of the steel and cause it to weaken.

[team bradfield]

Same with me, I used a large crescent wrench, closed the jaws on the metal and bent it

[jeffba]

Ma the former Firefighter in me liked the torch Idea. However, I did not have a torch, But I did have a big C-clamp. Tried teh C-clamp and got it back in position.. Need to get a second one So I can have one on each side of the hole.

So Been-there-done-that-Bob wins again

Thanks

[Rondo]

Jeff- You might want to go back underneath and use a strong light and check the welds on the hanger to see if they cracked. I had one snap on our rig and we had to get a welder in to weld it back on on both sides of the hanger and on the inside of it. From what I've heard the new hangers have a cross member in them to make them even more stout!

[Theunz]

2 pound sledge and a “bad attitude” fixed mine. I didn’t want to use my torch for fear of weakening the metal.
How the heck do these things loosen up anyway. I torque mine yearly and don’t put many miles on it!

[rohrmann]

On ours, I suspect that it wasn’t a nut coming loose, but more likely the bolt broke. There weren’t any parts of the bolt left when I discovered the problem.

[Mikendebbie]

Giant C-clamp? What did you use to tighten it and draw the bend back into place?

Also when this happens - typically do both plates bend out of plumb? Or does one side or the other bend and one side stays plumb? I assume that both sides need to be plumb if it is a permanent fix. Not sure I am explaining my question very well.

[RMcNeal]

All of mine are wet bolts installed from the factory. Does anyone know what the proper torque is for these? I have been using 120 ft. lbs.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by RMcNeal

All of mine are wet bolts installed from the factory. Does anyone know what the proper torque is for these? I have been using 120 ft. lbs.

From the MORryde installation instructions:




STEP 8: Once centered, insert one 9/16”-7/16-20 Wet Bolt 2.90” long (h) and fasten with one 7/16”- 20 Flange Lock Nut (e). Tighten with 13/16 socket and wrench, torque rating is 50 foot pounds. NOTE: The grease zerk may be installed to the inside or to the outside, this is done at customer preference. Note the grease exit hole location on the bolt, this should face sideways to allow for ease of grease flow.

[RMcNeal]

Thanks, Dave. I guess I have been over torqueing them. Not sure if they are Morryde brand since they came with the unit, but it's most likely the same or similar.

[jhudson]

Originally Posted by rohrmann

On ours, I suspect that it wasn’t a nut coming loose, but more likely the bolt broke. There weren’t any parts of the bolt left when I discovered the problem.

I have gone through six shackle bolts. Three on both left and right rear hangers. Bent the hangers each time and had to straighten them with a 2 foot adjustable wrench and sledge hammer all six times. Thought the bolts were coming loose, but found they were breaking.

Found on internet where someone attached a camera below his camper because he was having the same issue I was. In the video it showed clearing that the hangers in the rear would slightly deflect left to right. So slight but it was there.

So I installed the Mor/Ryde x factor on the front and rear hangers and one on the LRE 4000. I had replaced 6 bolts in 20000 miles and now have 5000 miles on x factor and all is well.

Kind of funny, I was getting very fast at replacing shackle bolts on the road. Carry spares of the now longer bolts just in case but looking at the installation of the xfactor, the hangers are not moving now.

It it my belief the the slight movement of the hangers are causing the bolts to break. That issue should be resolved because bolt failure will only continue if not.

[rames14]

I suspect the condition of roads has a lot to do with suspension issues, especially if torque has been checked. We broke springs twice on our 2015 Big Sky, which is why we are having IS installed. Bob, if you have been torquing to 120 on your wet bolts, you may want to contact Lippert to see if that took them to Yield point and should be replaced. I don’t have my Machinery’s handbook along to check.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by RMcNeal

Thanks, Dave. I guess I have been over torqueing them. Not sure if they are Morryde brand since they came with the unit, but it's most likely the same or similar.

Probably are but possibly Dexter which appear to be 100% identical after using both brands. If it was Lippert, possibly would be Never Fail non greased polymide instead of greased oilite bronze bushings (which I'm giving a try now)

[jeffba]

Okay it's all back together.

My first stab at it was with a 2LB sledge. Apparently not enough mad dog in me.
I used a giant crescent wrench to pull the outer flange out a bit.


I tthen used the levelers and xchockes to line up Bolts the hole


I used 8" clamps to pull teh bracket together


Then I buttoned it up


TThe bracket is still bent in vs straight up and down, but I am going to get the bracket replaced. tthe bolt holes were wallowed out. There is too much weight here to not do teh job right. I did not check tthe welds because the next step is to replace the bracket.


The brass bushing was worn in half Will replace bracket and all brass Bushings

Lippert part numbers


Nuts 122103

brass bushing 126171


Bolts 126238

[RMcNeal]

I'm currently waiting for a replacement axle for the rear from Dexter. When it is replaced, I'll have them replace all wet bolts and make sure I get the bronze bushings as well. Some of my wet bolts wouldn't take grease at first and I had to raise the axle and loosen the bolt to force grease in.

[Dave W]

I haven't had hanger problems - yet but possibly something like a piece of round tube stock or even a piece of angle iron, MIG or TIG welded between the legs work as reinforcing. Add another piece of flat stock outside though leaving access to the bolts work. This is for a slipper spring but would give you the idea.


Then there are the MORryde X-Members

[jeffba]

Originally Posted by Dave W

I haven't had hanger problems - yet but possibly something like a piece of round tube stock or even a piece of angle iron, MIG or TIG welded between the legs work as reinforcing. Add another piece of flat stock outside though leaving access to the bolts work. This is for a slipper spring but would give you the idea.


Then there are the MORryde X-Members

I like that

[jrsemrad]

I thought the hanger brackets were quite flimsy to support the weight of my 3400RL so I welded a 1”x1”x3/16 angle to the front of the front bracket and the back of the rear bracket and also to the frame. For what little this would cost the manufacturer it would be cheap insurance to prevent problems with the bracket bending. It would reduce the incidence of bolts breaking also.