Schwintek Slide Problem/Repair

[Bakersfish]

I have a 2020 Montana 3761FL with 5 slides. The 2 main slides are hydraulic and the other 3 are Schwintek slides. I’ve been an RV owner for many years and this is our first Montana. I’m aware of the issues with Schwintek slides and knew I would have problems “sooner or later.” Well, sooner came…

One of the front slides in the living room began to have issues when moving. One side would lag behind the other and the slide would stop. I performed some “reset” techniques (as seen on YouTube) but the problem persisted.

(Note: The reset technique involves moving the slide from all the way out to just a couple of inches in. Return the slide and hold the button for 3 to 5 seconds. Repeat this 3 to 5 times and the motors should “re-sync” and solve the problem. The slide can either be all the way in or all the way out when this is performed.)

I also learned how to override the system using the motor controller. My controller was located on the ceiling of the storage compartment right under the slide. That involves using a screwdriver or similar object (I used a torx driver because it has a larger end) to press a small button in the controller. Press the button 6 times and then hold it on the 7th press until the lights begin flashing. When the lights start flashing, you’ll have 2 minutes to run the slide all the way in or out and then all the way the other way. That should re-program the controller. (This is also the method you can use to override the system if you need to get the slide in or out to travel or camp.). This didn’t work for me and the one side of the slide kept lagging behind and stopping. NOTE: IF ONE MOTOR IS NOT OPERATING, THIS WON’T WORK. NEVER MOVE YOUR SLIDE AND ALLOW IT TO GET MORE THAN 4 INCHES OUT OF ALIGNMENT AS YOU CAN DAMAGE YOUR SLIDE AND YOUR RV FRAME.

I called a local RV Tech and explained the problem to him. He told me a sensor on a motor was bad and the motor would have to be replaced. That would require a $60 fee to come out to my RV barn and then $110 per hour plus the $300 for the motor. Ouch!!! The Tech said it would only take 45 minutes or so to switch out the motor.

I went onto this Montana Forum and did some research. I also did some research on YouTube to find out how difficult it would be to replace the motor. There are several videos so you have to weed through and find the one that best describes what you need. I also learned that some Montana owners had found a replacement motor on Amazon for about $75!!

Since I can use a screwdriver without causing injury to myself or others, I decided to take a stab at removing the motor. I moved the slide (using the override function on the controller) about half way in so I would have access to the wall where the motor was located and the retaining screw on the outside of the unit. I removed the upper portion of the slide out “gasket” and found the motor right where the YouTube video said it would be. (I took some pictures of the wiring and gaskets before I moved anything out of the way. I also took pictures of the motor and it’s orientation within the wall). I went outside the unit and removed the retaining screw located on the outside up near where the motor is installed.

Back inside the RV, I used a screwdriver and small tap hammer to tap the motor up and viola, to motor popped up out of the mount. I was able to lift the motor up and move the bottom out just like I saw on YouTube! I decided to put the motor back in for practice and it slipped right back into the mount.

I went to the computer and ordered the motor on Amazon and it arrived within 2 days. The new motor was very heavy and had a rubber cover over the top of the motor that sealed it from the elements much better than the original motor. The original motor has no rubber seal around it.

Once I had the motor, I went back in the RV and began to install the new motor. The rubber seal on the motor made it difficult to squeeze it back into the location where it was but I managed. I had taken a picture of the mount so I could orient the “D” shaft location to install the new motor. When the D shaft lined up the studs (4 located on the bottom of the motor that line up with the motor mount) did not line up. I marked one of the holes in the mount and since I could see the motor and mount from the switch, I “bumped” the switch until the studs lined up with the mount and the motor fell right into place. I tapped the motor down a little and replaced the retaining screw on the outside of the unit. I made sure the wires were routed like the original wires that I had pictures of and replaced the gaskets.

Back to the switch and the slide operated flawlessly. I ran the slide all the way out and held the button for 3 to 5 seconds. I ran the slide in and held the button again. I did this a couple of times and the slide is working as designed.

And now the point of this post. I learned some things that I thought are very important for those of us who enjoy the RV lifestyle. We should all know these things as it can save us some money but more importantly, save us some time and aggravation. Some things I learned…

1. Always hold the button down for 3 to 5 seconds when the slide reaches its intended position…in or out. This allows the motors to sync up with each other.
2. Never let the slide get more than 4” out of alignment side to side. If one side of the slide is moving more than the other, stop so you don’t damage the slide or your RV.
3. You can override the system at the controller to move your slide all the way in or out. Press the button 6 times, hold it on the 7th until the lights flash and you’ll have 2 minutes to get your slide where you need it to be. This is assuming you have a sensor problem like I did and the motor still functions.
4. You can “disconnect” your slide if all else fails. Remove the outside retaining screw and access the motors (both of them). Once the retaining screws are out, you can pop up the motor and remove the shaft from the mount. You can then push or pull your slide in to travel BUT you’ll have to use something (perhaps a 2x4) to put on top of the slide to prevent it from sliding back out during travel. (I’m going to cut a 2x4 for each slide if the measurements are different. I’ll paint the 2x4 red, mark it, and put it with my RV911 items. I figure if I go to the trouble of making these and marking them, I’ll never need them. If I don’t…)
5. Replacing a slide motor is not a big issue. I did not have to remove any interior slide trim on this particular slide so check out your slide before you go tearing it apart.
6. There are 2 types of slide motors. On smaller slides, the motor is a 300:1 ratio. On larger slides, it’s 500:1. Make sure you have the right motor. Mine was 300:1.

I know that working on RV’s can be intimidating for many of us who enjoy our RV’s. I’ve been doing some things to this RV that would have cost me a lot of money had I had a “professional” do these modifications. (I made our queen bed into an adjustable bed where the head of the bed raises so we can watch TV or a movie comfortably. I also made the storage area of our bed raise with a remote switch so gaining access to our storage area is much easier and now a “one person” job. It took me awhile to figure this out and I spent about $300 for this modification but I can’t imagine paying someone the amount of hours it took me to figure it out).

Please don’t think I’m “bad-mouthing” RV repair techs or dealers. Trust me, there are some things that I won’t attempt and will turn to a professional. Other things, I will research and make a decision on which way to proceed. I just want others to know that working on your RV can be both fun and may end up saving you some well needed fuel money!! I hope this post helps some RV owners.

Keep your wheels rolling…

[Montana Man]

Thanks for the info. Last weekend we were camping with family and they have a camper with the schwinteck slides. When they were closing up to leave the bed slider went crooked and stopped. I don't have experience with this system so we worked on it the best we could. Turns out when I pulled slightly on the wiring that goes to the motor, it ran. We were happy the slide went in, although a bit crooked, and they made it home. They will have it fixed on warranty but a person really needs to know this system to keep from being stranded.

[Foldbak]

That's good info. Especially holding the button for 3 to 5 seconds. I'm always afraid I'll damage something if I hold it too long.

[TomS]

Can you provide a link to the Amazon replacement motor? thanks

[Bakersfish]

I'm not sure how to provide a link but here's the description on Amazon:

236575, RV in-Wall Slide-Out Motor Compatible with Lippert Schwintek In-Wall Slide System, IG-42 10mm motor Assembly, Slide Motor for Travel Trailer and Camper | 300:1 High Torque Gear Ratio, 12V

I'm sure if you search this, it'll show up. It's $68.

[Bakersfish]

I was too. I've never been told that holding the button for 3 to 5 seconds allows the motors to "re-sync" themselves.

[Carl n Susan]

Originally Posted by Bakersfish

I'm not sure how to provide a link but here's the description on Amazon:

236575, RV in-Wall Slide-Out Motor Compatible with Lippert Schwintek In-Wall Slide System, IG-42 10mm motor Assembly, Slide Motor for Travel Trailer and Camper | 300:1 High Torque Gear Ratio, 12V

I'm sure if you search this, it'll show up. It's $68.

Here is the direct link to it on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/236575-Slide-...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

[RMcNeal]

Just had to replace mine last month. Got one on Amazon for $72.00. CW wanted $360 for the exact same motor. In my case, the motor is fine, but the wiring harness had been twisted so badly that one of the power wires had pulled out of the circuit board on top of the motor. I plan to repair it for a spare.
It's easy to bench test with a 12v DC source using the black/red wire combination. You can even use your cordless drill battery to run it.

[Speck56]

I just found out my 2020 3761FL has a cracked frame. Front left slide came out while travelling about 4 inches and the schwintek part was on the outside of the rig and not hidden on the inside. After removing the entire slideout a structural issue was found. Now in contact with Keystone to see if the 3 year structural warranty comes into play. Will keep the forum posted.
Steve Speckman, 2020 3761FL Legacy
2020 GMC Sierra Dually 4wd

[Carl n Susan]

Originally Posted by Bakersfish

<snip>
3. You can override the system at the controller to move your slide all the way in or out. Press the button 6 times, hold it on the 7th until the lights flash and you’ll have 2 minutes to get your slide where you need it to be. This is assuming you have a sensor problem like I did and the motor still functions.
4. You can “disconnect” your slide if all else fails. Remove the outside retaining screw and access the motors (both of them). Once the retaining screws are out, you can pop up the motor and remove the shaft from the mount. You can then push or pull your slide in to travel
</snip>

This is a terrific write up on the Schwintek slide system. I read it numerous times before attacking my son's non-functional slide problem. His right side motor is inop - probably wet and rusty being stored outside in Seattle. I also went through the Lippert Institute video course on the Schwintek system along with numerous You Tube videos.

I thought Step #3 (6 + 1 long button depressions) would bypass the counter circuit and allow the one motor to work while pushing on the dead motor side. Not so much. Apparently both motors have to run to use this method?

We also removed both wire bundles from the controller to Motor #1 and Motor #2. This ostensibly disengages the motor "lock" and allows you push the slide out manually. The two of us were unable to budge it. Now it is a fairly large slide and of course the RV is parked on a slope where we are pushing the slide uphill.

Have you tried the manual movement of a slide like this? As the slide is IN, we can't access the retaining screw from the outside. Removing the exterior slide molding is not our first choice. Removing the screw would allow us to lift the motor from the inside and not have to fight the gear box to manually move the slide.

It is so frustrating to not be able to move the slide the 6" needed to access the motor retaining screw so we can replace the dead motor with a new one.

[Carl n Susan]

Well another day and another try at moving the slide. Once we leveled the RV, and disconnected both motor control lines, we were able to move the left slide by pushing (hard) on it. But the right side wouldn't budge despite three young guys pushing. Further exploration from the inside uncovered what looks like rust in the motor. We feel it is "frozen" and locked up.

The slide is in, so there is no access to the retention screw. We tried removing the outside trim on the slide covering the motor to expose the retention screw but it appears the vertical plastic trim strip has a flange that screws to the side of the slide. Brilliant! Not wanting to destroy the plastic trim strip without a replacement we gave up on that idea for a while.

The current situation is the slide is IN, the motor won't turn to allow the slide to go out, and access to the retention screw is a huge challenge.

We have two thoughts for the next approach.
o - Is there some way to "thaw" the motor (and/or destroy it in place)? Would huge doses of PB Blaster or such have a chance of working? Anything that allows us get the motor to turn or get it out of the drive line.

o - The gear track rails are screwed to the slide walls. We can access and remove all the screws which would allow the slide to move independent of the stuck motor and gears tracks. The concern is what happens to the alignment of the "H" frame and components.? Maybe a RV shop can do this n a properly equipped shop but we don't have that.

Any suggestions are appreciated. And if you have a Schwintek Slide system, DO NOT let the motors get wet!!

[Mikendebbie]

Carl - I suppose at this point - it would not be funny if I asked you to post pictures and provide the year and model of the RV? No...not funny.

I watched a couple of Scwhintek videos and the motor needs to come up and out from the inside right? However the exterior keeper screw is engaged on the motor and will not let it pop up. You suspect the motor is probably toast anyway. Might be time for some semi-destructive techniques. What if you try to get a crow bar underneath the motor on the inside and see if you can overcome/bend/break the outer screw lifting the motor up so that you can remove it? See pic.

[Foldbak]

Wow Carl your in a pickle. I've been searching online. It looks like you're going to have to remove the trim. I'm going to my dealership today and I'll ask around to see if anyone has any suggestions.

[Carl n Susan]

Mikendebbie: It is a Grand Design 2800BH and I didn't take pics. But it is a standard Schwintek setup.
Foldback: Thanks for asking. FLRV used to be very good in helping out but I haven't been there since the ownership change.

[Carl n Susan]

Originally Posted by Mikendebbie

....I watched a couple of Scwhintek videos and the motor needs to come up and out from the inside right? However the exterior keeper screw is engaged on the motor and will not let it pop up. You suspect the motor is probably toast anyway. Might be time for some semi-destructive techniques. What if you try to get a crow bar underneath the motor on the inside and see if you can overcome/bend/break the outer screw lifting the motor up so that you can remove it?.....

I suspect there are things there "..that don't respond well to gunshots/crowbars..." (ref: Red October). Shearing off or bending the screw is fine if it doesn't affect the "H" frame. That is a pretty critical piece. There are 4 slots in the motor and the retaining screw uses whatever one is available to keep the motor from rotating. It might be possible come in through the opposite hole (inside the RV) and grind down the screw to allow the motor to be lifted. A Dremel cutting tool might be another option to cut the motor in half. A less invasive approach is a trick rust cutter Aero Kroil (think of PB Blaster on steroids) to dissolve the rust enough to allow the motor to rotate. That treatment has been started. I am sure it will take a couple of doses.

Unfortunately, my time in Seattle has ended and resolution is my son's problem. Well at least until my next trip up there.

Thanks for the suggestions. Keep 'em coming as I forward them to my son to consider.

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

Mikendebbie: It is a Grand Design 2800BH and I didn't take pics. But it is a standard Schwintek setup.
Foldback: Thanks for asking. FLRV used to be very good in helping out but I haven't been there since the ownership change.

It's night and day since the new owners/corp took over. I inspected my bedroom slide rebuild today and was very happy. I bring her home Friday. I talked to their lead Rob and he grimaced when I said it was closed. He said that the set screw doesn't thread into the motor which is good. He said to remove the trim on the side that's frozen and place a pry bar under the motor and start prying. All you need is a small lift which should be enough to push the slide far enough to remove the screw. 1 guy prying and 1 or 2 pushing. No easy task or way to do it. Good luck.

[Carl n Susan]

Thanks Foldbak, that adds credence to Mikendebbie's suggestion about the crowbar.

[scottz]

Saving this for when it is my turn, Thanks!

[Mikendebbie]

Originally Posted by scottz

Saving this for when it is my turn, Thanks!

...you and me both!!!

[Foldbak]

FLRV service department told me that as of this week Keystone is no longer installing schwintek slides.