Water...problem, can we go 3 for 3?

[InheritedMontana]

Hello again,

I feel like I'm that hopeless bird that fell out of it's nest. But I'm also someone who doesn't mind asking for help from someone who knows more than I do.

I hooked up the water line, and well, I didn't know these RV units have an underbody sprinkler system.

Water was leaking in the water heater cabinet, straight out of the body right by the water inlet (2 pictures below), and then I saw a leak by the steps thinking oh my goodness how much can be broken. Luckily, that was just the Washer Dryer valve that didn't get shut completed.

So my question finally. Would it be better to run new water lines, or trace these and solve all the problems 1 by 1? Follow up, is there any information you may have that could tell me how to trace these lines and where to expect them to run? I have 0 knowledge of the camper (it was my dads), and I'm just trying to fix it up to sell it.


Also, what is the water inlet below the main water line? I tried hooking water to it first, and nothing happened haha, Maybe I messed up?


It's a 2005 Keystone Montana 2395RK

Problems this forum has helped me on :
Leveling feet, solved.
Decals, ideas on putting lipstick but not wasting money

[Daryles]

2005, if they used PEX plumbing, they used plastic joints. If there was any water in the lines and it froze the PEX is good but it's likely the plastic joint broke.
Once you take down the basement walls you will be able to decide which way to go.
If you do decide to replace the lines, you can use the old lines to pull the new lines through as long as ther isn't an elbow in there somewhere. You will need a PEX crimping tool and a bunch of elbows.
If you have the coroplast bottom down, you could route the new lines away from the outside and put pipe insulation on them to protect from freezing.
One of my future projects is to make a hot water loop from the water heater around underneath, through a water pump and back to the water heater. This would be a supplemental heat source for preventing pipes and freshwater tank from freezing.
Have a good look at the water heater for splits.
I know one of our members was successful having it welded vs replacing it.
Also replace the anti siphon vacuum breaker valve on the black tank flush system with a brass one. They leak.

[rohrmann]

That extra water inlet below the city water connection might be a black tank flush system your Dad may have added. The other photo with the two lines, they s with water flowing from it might be low point drains, so there should be a valve inside that should turn that off.

[dieselguy]

My 05 2980RL had "flair-it" fittings as that was pre-PEX. The fittings were threaded plastic with a single barb that the plastic hose slipped over. Then, there was a plastic nut that tightened down on the line and fitting itself. They worked OK for stuff pre-PEX as if they seeped, all you had to do was tighten the plastic nut a bit more usually.

[twindman]

My 2006 2980 had a factory black tank flush. FYI
Agree about the 2 lines together being the drain hoses with shutoff valves near the control center (memory faded as I haven't had that unit since 2014.

[InheritedMontana]

Here's kind of whose hoses are located. I found the "low side" drain which is towards the back of the RV under the kitchen sink area. (Or at least what it looked like.)


Thank you everyone for your feedback. It looks like I'll have to just crawl under there tomorrow, and I'll add more pictures here if I have some questions.


Thank you again.

[twindman]

If it is at the back, I bet it is the fresh water tank drain. The low point drains are near the convenience center. I think!

[jimcol]

My 2006 is probably pretty similar to yours. The two lines coming out the bottom are your low point drains. One for hot, one for cold. Generally, just use them when winterizing. The valves for them are right above to the right inside the cargo bay door. The water around the water heater could be the high-pressure relief valve. You'll see it on the face of the heater when you remove the access door/grate. It looks just like the one on your residential home water heater. Many people leave it in the open position when winterizing their rig.

[rames14]

As Jim said, those two hoses are definitely your low point drains. 2005 did not have a convenience center. Also, the stock water tank had a screw on cap. Best of luck.

[CaptnJohn]

Originally Posted by Daryles

2005, if they used PEX plumbing, they used plastic joints. If there was any water in the lines and it froze the PEX is good but it's likely the plastic joint broke.
Once you take down the basement walls you will be able to decide which way to go.
If you do decide to replace the lines, you can use the old lines to pull the new lines through as long as ther isn't an elbow in there somewhere. You will need a PEX crimping tool and a bunch of elbows.
If you have the coroplast bottom down, you could route the new lines away from the outside and put pipe insulation on them to protect from freezing.
One of my future projects is to make a hot water loop from the water heater around underneath, through a water pump and back to the water heater. This would be a supplemental heat source for preventing pipes and freshwater tank from freezing.
Have a good look at the water heater for splits.
I know one of our members was successful having it welded vs replacing it.
Also replace the anti siphon vacuum breaker valve on the black tank flush system with a brass one. They leak.

Water heater recirculating ~~ in the south no basement so WH is in the garage. Took forever to get hot water to the master bedroom and kitchen. It’s 110 but if you can find a 12 volt all that is needed is one extra short line.