had to do it

[bshgto]

It`s been stinking hot everywhere and my rear a/c died, the heat side went out last winter (reversing valve stuck in cool) now the cool side steadily got warmer, it`s done. I wasn`t going to pay 1600 dollars for a new roof mount that doesn't cool the camper anyway on hot days. On Facebook there are a gazillion people complaining that their A/C`s don`t cool their Montana`s and what to do about it.
I`ve tried all the fixes with almost no success so perfect time to put in a Mini Split and solve the heat problem forever. I put in a 230 volt 18,000 BTU Senville Mini split. for 1100 dollars flat. There is no comparison to Keystones idea of cool. The unit is so quiet you have to listen for it to be sure it`s running. I puts out 40-degree air (try that with your roof mount on a hot day) it comes with a WIFI remote you can turn the unit on and off from anywhere. The outside unit is just as quiet and runs on less than half the amp draw of a roof mount. Perfect for my 230 volt generator. It draws 5 amp per side and with the inverter compressor you don`t need an expensive easy start.
I mounted the indoor unit above the kitchen cabinets and the air blows all the way to the fireplace wall with some force I might ad. It heats down to 5 degrees, are you listening keystone. It can really turn the camper into a meat locker if you want to. It was 92 degrees where I'm at for the test it brought the camper down to 70 degrees in 30 mins. Just no comparison.
Before anyone says you can`t access the rear storage I used a 750 lb cargo tray that folds down to roll the campers sliding tray out. The outside unit weighs 50 lbs. so it`s easy to lower with the flexible refrigerant lines.

[BB_TX]

Did you install it yourself? Or have it done?

[AZ Traveler]

Was there a good 120 V option? Runny a genny full time would be a showstopper in many parks.

[Carl n Susan]

Very interesting!
You say it is 230V. Did you tie it into the onboard CB panel and if so, how?
Where did you run the lines to get to the kitchen? Is that them coming up on the right side of the last two pics?

[bshgto]

Originally Posted by BB_TX

Did you install it yourself? Or have it done?

Yes I did. HAVC is not rocket science. You can find out how to do anything on YouTube.

[bshgto]

Originally Posted by AZ Traveler

Was there a good 120 V option? Runny a genny full time would be a showstopper in many parks.

I don`t go to camp grounds that don`t have 50 amp 230 volt pedistals

[bshgto]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

Very interesting!
You say it is 230V. Did you tie it into the onboard CB panel and if so, how?
Where did you run the lines to get to the kitchen? Is that them coming up on the right side of the last two pics?

There`s 230 volt in all CB panels that support 50 amps. I just used the washer breaker for one side (don`t have a washer drier) and the rear A/C breaker for the other. It`s broken and will not be replaced I am puting another vent in it`s place.= 230 volts. The 110-volt models aren`t enough BTU`s to keep up with the heat gain of a Rear Den model camper.
The refrigerant lines run along the bottom of the camper then up in the bath closet to the back of the wall that holds the kitchen cabinets.

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by bshgto

It`s been stinking hot everywhere and my rear a/c died, the heat side went out last winter (reversing valve stuck in cool) now the cool side steadily got warmer, it`s done. I wasn`t going to pay 1600 dollars for a new roof mount that doesn't cool the camper anyway on hot days. On Facebook there are a gazillion people complaining that their A/C`s don`t cool their Montan`s and what to do about it.
I`ve try all the fixes with almost no success so perfect time to put in a Mini Split and solve the heat problem forever. I put in a 230 volt 18,000 BTU Senville Mini split. for 1100 dollars flat. There is no comparison to Keystones idea of cool. The unit is so quiet you have to listen for it to be sure it`s running. I puts out 40-degree air (try that with your roof mount on a hot day) it comes with a WIFI remote you can turn the unit on and off from anywhere. The outside unit is just as quiet and runs on less than half the amp draw of a roof mount. Perfect for my 230 volt generator. It draws 5 amp per side and with the inverter compressor you don`t need an expensive easy start.
I mounted the indoor unit above the kitchen cabinets and the air blows all the way to the fireplace wall with some force I might ad. It heats down to 5 degrees, are you listening keystone. It can really turn the camper into a meat locker if you want to. It was 92 degrees where I'm at for the test it brought the camper down to 70 degrees in 30 mins. Just no comparison.
Before anyone says you can`t access the rear storage I used a 750 lb tray that folds down to roll the tray out. The outside unit weighs 50 lbs. so it`s easy to lower with the flexible refrigerant lines.

Well done....question, how the heck do you access the rear storage compartment?

[bshgto]

Originally Posted by Foldbak

Well done....question, how the heck do you access the rear storage compartment?

read the last 2 sentences in my original post

[Daryles]

Beautiful work!!!
Thanks for sharing.
It might take a few years but in the future all new RVs will have Mini splits versus rooftop units.
I have seen manufacturers make Mini split units where the inside part can go into ductwork or a ceiling cassette model.
I was wondering if the inside part could go in place of the rear AC unit on the roof then tie into the ductwork.
Then again the ductwork is part of the problem. I have read it cannot support the Airflow our current units put out.

[Mark7]

Nice install per your description and have considered doing the same if the need arises...

Something in your pic confuses me. What am I looking at in the circled area?

Edit:

Never mind :-)

Looks like an open cabinet door? At first glance it looks like part of your install!

[bshgto]

Originally Posted by Mark7

Nice install per your description and have considered doing the same if the need arises...

Something in your pic confuses me. What am I looking at in the circled area?

Edit:

Never mind :-)

Looks like an open cabinet door? At first glance it looks like part of your install!

Yes that is the cabinet door to the electrical switches. It used to open right to left and if you left it open and started up the stairs you would drive the left bottom corner in to the top of your head and believe me that hurt. So i just changed it to open bottom to top as you see in the picture now, I can leave it open with no pain. There was a whole thread on this subject and how people would injure themselves leaving the door open and the modification.

[prk7]

I like this, just need someway to cool the bathroom and bedroom. I hate the so called whisper quiet units, unbearable loud.

[bshgto]

Originally Posted by prk7

I like this, just need someway to cool the bathroom and bedroom. I hate the so called whisper quiet units, unbearable loud.

I did an experiment after the install. If you look at the first picture there is a small fam on the floor pointing up into the bed room it pushes more than enough cool air up there to cool the bed room, the bathroom cooled off to by angling the fan slightly.
What I want to know is how keystone figured 2- 15000 btu a/c`s would cool the camper then they prepped for a 3rd 15000 btu a/c in the kitchen that sounds like the SR-71 taking off on full after burner. That`s 45,000 btu`s to do the job. This is admitting "We use a poor design and you just shut up and live with it, sport." when a single 18,000 btu unit can cool the whole unit in no time in extreme heat.

[Bourbon County]

Originally Posted by Daryles

Beautiful work!!!
Thanks for sharing.
It might take a few years but in the future all new RVs will have Mini splits versus rooftop units.
I have seen manufacturers make Mini split units where the inside part can go into ductwork or a ceiling cassette model.
I was wondering if the inside part could go in place of the rear AC unit on the roof then tie into the ductwork.
Then again the ductwork is part of the problem. I have read it cannot support the Airflow our current units put out.

I would love to see one of the higher end RV manufacturers build with a mini-split. If they were successful, the entire industry would likely do it within a year or two. It would seem to be possible to install a slide out tray on the back of the coach for the condenser.

There are ceiling cassettes on the market from most mini-split manufacturers. They are about 22" X 22" square rough in, they're made to mount between roof trusses on 24" centers. The difficult part is the depth, they are nearly 10" deep. I'm thinking a 2 zone 18K BTU unit and a ceiling cassette in front and rear. They could push the indoor unit higher in the ceiling and put some kind of aerodynamic cover over it similar to the skylight in the shower.

You are probably correct about the RV duct system being unable to handle the airflow of a low profile ducted mini-split. The RV air conditioners by design have very low air volume, about 30% less than you would normally see on a residential unit of same size.

The benefits would be nearly boundless. Comfort would be paramount, much less current draw which would be much more user friendly when running on generator or solar, lower power bills for campgrounds. The mini-splits are actually built to be serviced, no need to replace the whole unit for what would be a minor repair.

There are a lot of quality mini-split manufacturers like Mitsubishi, LG, Fujitsu, Daikin, that I would believe would be willing to make RV units if approached.

[jeffba]

Mini Splits are available on high end 5th wheels.
I have been looking at a MrCool/ they make a 115V 12000 BTU that is user installable