The mice have been hard at work

[riflegunbuilder]

Went get something out of the camper today and discovered that mice have been snacking on some wires and hydraulic lines. Right where it goes through the bulkhead from the battery compartment to the underbelly.

Got a three wire bundle with one wire chewed in two and half is behind the bulkhead, and a hydraulic line gnawed right where it passes through. I guess the next step is to pull the under belly and start looking for which line?

[Foldbak]

Woah boy....best hurry up and get a handle. I had a friend lose his 150K toy hauler in one season due to mice. No use for 3 months and it was a complete total! Basement, walls and ceiling.

[Woodyswanch]

Just ordered some "Tomcat, Rodent Repellent" spray cans. I heard some good news on it's effectiveness. I'll post after I spray some on the fiver.

[Sparatacus]

Originally Posted by Woodyswanch

Just ordered some "Tomcat, Rodent Repellent" spray cans. I heard some good news on it's effectiveness. I'll post after I spray some on the fiver.

This is what I use and so far I haven't seen any, I also set traps by the inside of my tires and my front jacks, the kind that have the alligator mouth. I try to catch them before they come in and so far by setting up those traps I have caught a lot of them.

So with the combination of those so far I haven't had any mice coming it, I hate mice.

[RMcNeal]

We have had two of these Rat Zapper traps from Amazon. They are very effective and no danger of poison around our dogs or other animals. We usually just put a few pieces of bird seed or dry dog food inside.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Daryles]

The forward underbelly coroplast is not hard to remove/reinstall. I just did that recently to replace the black tank valve seals, added more insulation, closed up any air gaps, tightened the black tank flush supply pipe (it was loose, got a full turn on the fitting).
SmartSHIELD -20mm 48"X25ft Reflective Insulation Roll, Foam Core Radiant Barrier, Thermal Foil Insulation Panel - 0.8 Inch Thickness, R-23 https://a.co/d/2FWfu1C

I insulated completely around the inside of the steel beam frame, then one whole piece across the bottom.
I previously put copper pan scrubber in the holes between the battery compartment and underbelly.
1st picture is where the wiring/hydraulic lines come from the battery compartment. I added a pull string in case I need to pull any wiring through here in the future.
2nd picture is the added Insulation around the frame where the valves are.

[riflegunbuilder]

Thanks Daryles, I stopped at the RV repair shop I use this morning. He told me to pull the underbelly like you show and if I can't repair it he will send someone over. Looks like two wired and two hydraulic hoses are damaged.

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by Daryles

The forward underbelly coroplast is not hard to remove/reinstall. I just did that recently to replace the black tank valve seals, added more insulation, closed up any air gaps, tightened the black tank flush supply pipe (it was loose, got a full turn on the fitting).
SmartSHIELD -20mm 48"X25ft Reflective Insulation Roll, Foam Core Radiant Barrier, Thermal Foil Insulation Panel - 0.8 Inch Thickness, R-23 https://a.co/d/2FWfu1C

I insulated completely around the inside of the steel beam frame, then one whole piece across the bottom.
I previously put copper pan scrubber in the holes between the battery compartment and underbelly.
1st picture is where the wiring/hydraulic lines come from the battery compartment. I added a pull string in case I need to pull any wiring through here in the future.
2nd picture is the added Insulation around the frame where the valves are.

Wow impressed! But that wiring

[Daryles]

Originally Posted by Foldbak

Wow impressed! But that wiring

Yeah, it's a mess. I suspended the wiring and hydraulic lines with loops of Gorilla tape fastened to the inside of the I beam. I put 6" pieces of tape face to face to cover the sticky part so the wiring doesn't stick to it.

[Daryles]

To help keep rodents out and block up drafts (keeps the rig warmer in the winter, cooler in the summer) I closed up the holes around the frame with Gorilla tape. I used aluminum flashing around the jack holes.

[riflegunbuilder]

Update!
Wiring is repaired. I have figured out that two of the damaged hoses go to the hydraulic slides. So I guess tomorrow I can drop some underbelly behind the axles and locate the slide out cylinders.

[AZ Traveler]

Walton,

Is it leaking hyd fluid?

[riflegunbuilder]

Just on the 4 hoses the mice gnawed holes in. I have identified 2 of the four as the hoses going to the ODS/DS cut off valves.

[Mikelff]

Use some copper wool (steel wool will rust)(without any soap in it) to fill in any gaps or where they might try to chew through. You can also wrap some around any wires or hydraulic lines they might chew on. Mice hate that copper wool. You might see a chew mark but they will not chew through. Hold it on with some Gorilla tape wrapped around it loosely. That should take care of the problem. I was able to catch the mouse problem early and used the copper wool method and never had an issue since. Hope it works for you.

[ayerforce]

We place about a dozen bars of Irish Spring soap throughout our rig during the off season. Every room, near every slide, every storage compartment. They get placed on 6" x 6" paper plates. I have never seen a rodent dropping or experienced any damage (knock on wood!).

[bgjon56]

Where do you go or live that you get that many mice?

[miket49]

Originally Posted by Daryles

Yeah, it's a mess. I suspended the wiring and hydraulic lines with loops of Gorilla tape fastened to the inside of the I beam. I put 6" pieces of tape face to face to cover the sticky part so the wiring doesn't stick to it.

How big of a job is it to replace the black tank value seal ?? not counting taking down the bottom

[Mikendebbie]

Originally Posted by miket49

How big of a job is it to replace the black tank value seal ?? not counting taking down the bottom

Don't know if this question and mice problems belong in the same thread - but here is my solution to a leaky black tank valve.

Not too long after we had the RV - an "obstruction" at the valve prevented it from closing 100% (see sketch below) and everytime I opened the cap at the campground I received a special wet stinky nasty surprise of water pouring out...not much - but ENOUGH! Found the answer here in the forum. Added a valve at the end of the discharge pipe to hook my sewer hose to. When I was completely plumbed to the campground sewer I open the valve and let it drain. My setup is pictured below.

Since I added this second valve - I do not have to remove the coroplast bottom sheeting and replace the valve. I will replace the valve...someday.

[Daryles]

Originally Posted by miket49

How big of a job is it to replace the black tank value seal ?? not counting taking down the bottom

It's actually not that difficult a job.
Putting the coroplast back up was a pain.

Ok. I used a 1/4" socket on a drill in reverse and pried down under the fender washers with a pry bar. The nails come right out.
Once the coroplast and reflectex insulation (R3, lame) is removed everything is right there in front of you.
I previously drained, flushed and winterized the rig so I knew the tank was dry.
The valve itself has 4 bolts mounting it to the pipe. Remove them and the valve comes out. BTW it's a Bristol valve. Most people replace it with a Valterra valve. I decided to try replacing the valve seal first.
Once the valve is out the seal come off easily. Put the new seals in and lubricate them and the blade with silicon grease. Reassemble the valve. Do whatever improvements you plan. I added insulation. I wanted to also add Mopeka tank sensors, but that will be next time.
I also added grease points to the valves and sprayed silicon Lubricant in the hole.
Valve lubrication making lube holes for silicon grease

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TGv9THpOdmw

Inspect EVERYTHING!!! I found the black tank flush fitting loose. I tightened it up at least 1 full turn.
I ran a pull string from the battery compartment to behind the convenience center. I'm planning on pulling a 4 gauge wire from the batteries to the MPPT in the basement to upgrade the MPPT to a 150/70.
When putting the coroplast back up I used leveling blocks and Telescoping poles I use for the Satellite dish and the WeBoost antenna. The poles and blocks help hold up the coroplast while you are getting the new screws in.
Use 1" #12 self tapping bolts through the nail holes. Push hard. If you don't use the existing nail holes push harder. They will drill through.
1st picture the old seal. You can see it was all wrinkled up where the blade crushed it. This tank valve leaked from the first day we owned the rig.
2nd picture the valves looking aft.
3rd picture the bolts to put the coroplast back up.
I added extra bolts and fender washers along the front and back edge for extra support.

[Doug Brown]

I watched an article on YouTube about the wiring on the new cars. The the article said a lot of new cars wiring harnesses are made with soy instead of oil based plastic. I wonder if this is true?