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Old 07-21-2004, 02:03 AM   #1
Montana_655
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False reading

Since the first time we used the black water tank we have never been
able to get it to read empty after dumping, it will always read 1/3.
Have others encountered this and if so was there a way to get the
sensor to read right or do you just ignore it?
 
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Old 07-21-2004, 02:51 AM   #2
prariepoodle
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Gvons, Mine reads 1/3 full all the time the sensors get paper stuck on it. We just make sure that we wash it out real good and ignore it. My galley tank reads 1/3 full also,
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Old 07-21-2004, 02:55 AM   #3
NJ Hillbilly
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I have gotten them clean but it never lasts. When You dump fill the tank to the top first and it sometimes helps.
Last time I dumped I flushed and filled a few times and
I figured I was clean. It still read 1/3. I added water softener to the tank (to make the water slippery and to dissolve scum in tank) and I filled the tank to the bottom of the toilet valve. I let it sit a few days and was surprised to see what else came out. There was a lot of stuff still in there. Still reads 1/3!!!

John
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Old 07-21-2004, 03:44 AM   #4
lightningjack11
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Some on the forum had stated that when you dump your tank fill it with water and ice. Drive a hundred miles or so.

I used this technique when working as a tech for cleaning glass coffee pots that were burnt overnight. Takes the burnt coffee right off.

Never tried it in a RV. Think I will on my trip to Goshen.
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Old 07-21-2004, 04:53 AM   #5
Bob & Lee
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I have the same in my gray tank reads 1/3 after it is dumped the others are still reading ok, well at least say empty when I dump them I flush the black about 15 Min. which may or may not help. Read on another site of a person that uses no blue stuff in any tanks only water, says that it will stink for a few days or dumps till the chemicals are cleaned out the tank and then the natural enzimes take over and it works its magic as long as you do not use the blue stuff because it kills the living things in the tank. anyone ever heard this on doing this ?
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Old 07-21-2004, 05:19 AM   #6
Montana_655
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On the same general topic.. dumping. There is a website www.rvdumps.com which provides a US map and by state a list of dump sites. I know this list is far short of complete and was wondering if anyone knew of a source that was more comprehensive? I ask because 90% of our use is out of state and boondocking and I've love not to lug 90 galons of waste water home if I can find places to dump local before starting back.
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Old 07-21-2004, 05:23 AM   #7
D and M On The Road
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Gvons..... there is much previous discussion about the tank readings, especially the black tank.
You can always do a search of the forum to see if there's been previous discussions of what your're interested in by clicking on the word "search" just above where it shows you are logged into the forum. Then search for "black tank" "readings" or similar wording. Lots of good information, tips and tricks in those previous discussions.

I'll go see if I can find some of the links and come back here and post them for you...

Edit:
Okay, I found some and here's links to some of those previous discussions:

http://www.forumco.com/montanaadmini...?TOPIC_ID=5075

http://www.forumco.com/montanaadmini...?TOPIC_ID=4545

http://www.forumco.com/montanaadmini...?TOPIC_ID=1251

Happy Rving!
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Old 07-21-2004, 06:11 AM   #8
Montana_621
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We have tried the ice and soap in the tank, cleaners and other stuff to help with the reading for the black tank and it has never read right and it probably never will. We just watch it to make sure we are ok and since most of our trips are for weekends we don't usually have a problem. If you are concerned, throw the TP in a garbage can next to the toilet and just flush the rest. Good luck.
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Old 07-22-2004, 02:01 AM   #9
Bill and Ann
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I would advise you to ignore the guage. We have never used our toilet. The only water in the tank was from when we tried to seal our toilet. (We never did get it to seal and it is going to be replaced). Anyway, without any solids of any sort in the tank, when we emptied it, it still read 1/3.
From other comments, I would suggest that you use the 1/3 mark as the empty mark and go from there.
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Old 07-23-2004, 02:36 PM   #10
cargary
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We haven't used our black water tank much yet, as we try to use the campground facilities first if we can. We have only had to dump 1 time so far, but this will all change this next week when we will have our son and his family with us. Our black water tank still reads empty to this point, but I'm sure this will change after more solids and paper accumulate in it.
I have a question for someone though. At our next campground, we will be on full hookup and I was wondering how do most of you do this. What I mean is, is it best to hookup directly to the sewer and have the waste go directly through the tank into the sewer or would it be better to not hookup directly to the sewer and let the black water tank get full and then hookup to the sewer and dump? I realize this may be a dumb question, but thinking about the paper and other debri going into the tank and attaching to the sensors or whatever else, I thought having a full tank of liquids and solids might help more to flush these items out, then to do it with not much liquids. I don't know if this makes any sense, but just thought I would seek some advice before we actually have our first experience doing it. Any and all comments will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Gary & Carole
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Old 07-23-2004, 03:03 PM   #11
Searchers
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cargary,

The procedure I follow is to hookup but leave the valves closed until the tanks are close to full. Then drain the black tank first, leave that valve open, then flush the galley and gray water tanks. By leaving the black tank valve open while flushing the other two some of the cleaner liqiud may help to backwash the black tank.
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Old 07-23-2004, 11:22 PM   #12
Montana Sky
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My galley tank always reads 1/3 full, even after dumping the galley tank. I am just going to have to ignore it. Makes me wonder why the galley always reads this... Food for thought I guess.
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Old 07-24-2004, 03:20 AM   #13
jsmitfl
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Same here Gary, we hold it in the tank then flush it. I also like the idea of filling the black tank with water after flushing then flushing again.
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Old 07-24-2004, 05:44 AM   #14
patodonn
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We have been playing around with this problem for a year. First, we have had the dealer(s) try to fix the indication system problem twice, OK short term, but no lasting results (black tank). Still 2/3 full all the time. Now have decided to just ignore the readings.

If connected to a sewer system, we have found that our best "technique" is to keep all valves closed for about 5-6 days, depending on galley/bathtub usage, or until the black tank gets full (as determined visually). That usually takes at least 6-8 days, longer the more we use the local "facilities". We sometimes partially dump the galley or bathroom tanks earlier if they get close to full. All things being equal, we usually dump all thre on the 6th or 7th day.

For the usual situation, we dump the black tank first, close the black tank valve, then use the tank "flush" system (using a second hose) with the black tank valve closed. After about 4 min, we open the black tank drain valve again, shut off the water to the flush system and drain the black tank. I sometimes repeat this process one more time. I then (sometimes) use the grey and then the galley tanks to assist with a third "flush" of the black tank, as describe3d in a preceding post. When all are flushed and valves closed, I add about 1 min worth of water via the second hose flush system, disconnect the flush hose, and, finally, add the chemical from inside. Start to finish is about 20-30 min, for everything..

Do NOT allow yourself to get distracted while using the flush system into the black tank!!!! Tie a rope around an appendage of choice or clip a flag to your nose, whatever you need to prevent "forgetting" that the water is going into the black tank or you will really regret it!! So far, so good.....

I think I will try the water softener technique soon....have black tank about 1/2 to 2/3 full of untreated water, add the softener, and allow the solution to roll around while driving for a day. We'll see how it works out. Might even try "Rainex" (windshield wetting agent)once...who knows?? Anyone done that yet??


Best,
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Old 08-12-2004, 03:53 AM   #15
WACOT
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Gvons

Since the first time we used the black water tank we have never been
able to get it to read empty after dumping, it will always read 1/3.
Have others encountered this and if so was there a way to get the
sensor to read right or do you just ignore it?
I have a 2004 and the same problem is present in it. The dealer tech told me that because the tank is deeper in one end than the other that I would always have some problem with it. He also suggested that I run the right side of the unit onto a 2X6 board (maybe two) so the tank will drain completely, Having said that, the repair order says they tested the probes and found them to be reading wrong and replaced something called the Spider Resistor Assy, p/n
2 S-Kibres. Have not been out since I got the trailer back from shop so can't tell you if it worked or not, but it does read ZERO now. Tom
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Old 08-12-2004, 05:38 AM   #16
Bob & Lee
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I found this on another post and thought it was interesting, Iam testing it now, worth a try...

Black and Gray Water Holding Tank Maintenance
The Geo Method
By Charles Bruni
cbruni@mindspring.com
Renton, Washington
U.S.A.

Everyone who owns an RV should be concerned with maintaining its wastewater tanks. Problems with wastewater tanks that can be avoided should be avoided. Wastewater tank repair is expensive. Due to health concerns, many service facilities will not work on wastewater tanks and lines until the tanks have been completely emptied and sanitized. This may be quite difficult when the tank(s) is in need of repair. So, common sense dictates that the tanks should be kept relatively clean at all times. Additionally, improper use of the wastewater tanks can lead to a build up of solid wastes, which in itself may cause the system to fail.

I've discovered very simple, effective, and inexpensive methods of maintaining my wastewater tanks in a relatively clean condition at all times. I developed these methods myself through my understanding of chemistry, physics, and biology with a smidgen of common sense thrown in for good measure. I also read my RV owner's manual. Although we are not full time RVers we use our fifth wheel camper at least one weekend a month. We never use public bathing and toilet facilities. In other words, our wastewater tanks are fairly heavily used. Since I've met a number of RVers who don't seem to know how to maintain their wastewater tanks I thought many RVers would find my tips useful. If you have not been maintaining your tanks I believe you will be pleasantly surprised the first time you employ these tips. I do these things and they work.


1. DUMP A FULL TANK

When you are camping and your RV is connected to a sewer/septic intake, leave the drain valves closed until the tank is full and ready to dump. Dumping a full tank provides a sufficient quantity of water to flush solids from the tank. Leaving the drain valves open allows the water to drain off without flushing out solid waste. That solid waste will collect in the tank(s) and cause problems over time. If your tanks are not full when you are ready to dump them, fill them with fresh water first, and then dump them.


2. DUMP TANKS IN ORDER FROM DIRTIEST TO CLEANEST

In other words, dump the black (commode) water tank first, then dump the galley tank, then dump the shower and bathroom sink tank. This way you will be flushing out the dirtiest water with progressively cleaner water.


3. USE WATER SOFTENER

**Calgon Water Softener link**

This stuff is amazing and it works. Buy a couple of boxes of powdered water softener at the grocery store. You'll find it located with or near the laundry detergent products. I prefer Calgon Water Softener because it dissolves quickly in water. Cheaper water softeners work just as well but dissolve more slowly. Dissolve two (2) cups of the water softener in a gallon of hot water. Then, pour the solution down the drain into the empty tank. Use two cups of softener for each wastewater tank in your RV. The tank's drain valve should be closed otherwise the softened water will just drain out. Then use the tank(s) normally until it is full and drain it normally. Add a cup of laundry detergent to the black (commode) water tank at the same time you add water softener. This will help clean the tank. The gray water tanks should already contain soap through normal use.

The water softener makes the solid waste let go from the sides of the tanks. If you've ever taken a shower in softened water you know that after rinsing the soap from your body your skin will feel slick. That's because all the soap rinses away with soft water. Softened water also prevents soap scum from sticking in the tub. Get the connection? With softened water gunk washes away instead of sticking. The same thing applies to your RV's wastewater tanks.

I use one of those clear plastic elbow connectors to attach my sewer drain line to the wastewater outlet on my RV. It allows me to see how well things are progressing during a wastewater dump. Before I began using water softener regularly the black water tank's water was brown, the galley tank's water was brownish, and the bathroom tank's water was white. The first time I added water softener to the tanks the water coming from the black water tank was actually black (not brown) and the kitchen tank's water was also black (not brownish). The bathroom tank's water remained white. That told me that the water softener had actually done what I had intended for it to do and made solid waste, which had been stuck to the interior of the tanks, let go and drain away. I added water softener to all the wastewater tanks for the next few dumps to be certain all the solid waste possible had been cleaned away. The wastewater only appeared black on the initial treatment. I now add water softener to each tank once after every few dumps to maintain the system.

Occasionally, I pour a half gallon of liquid bleach into each tank to sanitize and disinfect them. I add the bleach when the tank is about half full, and then continue to use the tank normally until it is full and ready to dump. I no longer use the blue toilet chemical because it isn't necessary. I have no odors coming from my black water tank. Generic brand liquid bleach is cheap and very effective.

How does chlorine bleach work? Great link!


4. USE A WATER FILTER ON YOUR FRESH WATER INTAKE LINE

Most fresh water contains sediment. Sediment will accumulate in your wastewater tanks and your fresh water lines. It also tends to discolor your sinks, tub/shower, and commode. I use the disposable type and have found that they eventually fill up and begin restricting the fresh water flow resulting in low pressure. That's how I know it's time to get a new filter. It works, it's cheap, it avoids problems, do it. When I fill my fresh water tank I attach the filter to the end of the hose and fill the tank with filtered water.


SOME OTHER THOUGHTS

Never put regular toilet tissue in your RV's black tank. Only use toilet tissue which is approved for RV and/or septic tank use. Regular toilet tissue may eventually dissolve, but not before causing a clog in your black tank.

I believe occasionally traveling with partially filled wastewater tanks that contain softened water promotes cleaning by agitating the water. The same goes for chlorine bleach.

I believe this process works faster and more efficiently during warm weather. However, I know it works well even during cool/cold weather.

I believe the process works best the longer the water softener remains in the tanks. So, I don't add water softener during periods of heavy wastewater generation. I wait until I know we won't be generating wastewater quickly so that the softened water remains in the tanks for several days before dumping.

I add a small amount of chlorine bleach to the fresh water tank twice a year to disinfect and sanitize the fresh water tank and fresh water lines. A weak chlorine bleach solution will not hurt you. However, it certainly makes the water taste bad. When we have chlorine in the fresh water system we use bottled water for drinking and cooking until the chlorine is gone.

My tanks are plastic and my pipes are PVC.

Don't be afraid to use your tanks. Just use common sense about their care and maintenance.

These tips are inexpensive to do. Some of them don't cost anything. You have nothing to lose in trying them and I encourage you to do so. I actually feel a certain amount of pride in the condition and cleanliness of both my waste and fresh water systems. Naturally, these tips make dumping a much more pleasant and sanitary procedure.

If you have odors in any of your water systems these procedures should eliminate them. Odors indicate a sanitary problem and degrade the enjoyment you derive from your RV.

When my RV is parked and not in use I place stoppers in the sink and tub drains. This forces the wastewater tanks to vent through the vent pipes to the outside instead of through the drains into the RV. Water evaporates. Once the drain traps dry out during periods of non-use, nothing is there to prevent gasses (odor) from venting into the camper. Use stoppers when your RV is stored.

Please consider printing this information and posting it on the bulletin boards of RV parks and campgrounds you visit. Fellow RVers will benefit from your consideratio
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Old 08-12-2004, 08:25 AM   #17
DrivesBGM
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Black and Gray Water Holding Tank Maintenance

Just thought I'd post a link to the above referenced article so you can chase the links referenced in Charles Bruni's original post.

Craig
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