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Old 06-17-2022, 08:57 AM   #21
Ahdmeyer
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sorry to hear about loseing your home, we live in az north of phoenix and had real bad fires last year. one was so close i went into the garage i store my rv ,put in slides and jacks up ready to leave in a hurry. luckly it did not get any closer. i do not know your model specifics but in my 3931fb the invertor charger is behind the fuse panel by the steps. hope you get everything up and running. the people on this forum are great in answering any questions and helping, the old saying "the only dumb question is the one not asked" so ask away
 
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Old 06-18-2022, 12:01 PM   #22
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I made progress yesterday on the hydraulics. I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner, especially after mentioning that there is evidence of flood damage... After adding the second battery and charging the DC system for some hours and the same symptoms existed, I realized that it was acting like an automotive system with dirty battery cables! I pulled the most corroded cable I first saw where the cable moved independently from the terminal lug. I thought "Aha!" IO don't have a proper cable crimper here in Santa Rosa. Cleaned the lugs as best I could, them proceeded to another and another. Next trip back to to ranch I will grab my big cable crimper set. In the meantime I'll order a dozen each of the the two sizes cable ring connectors.
Of course after resolving the electrical connector issues, I noticed the hydraulic fluid reservoir was low again. Sigh. One of our cats got out last night causing me to peak under the trailer in search of of the sneaky cat, I saw an oil leak. Thank you cat. [/SIZE]
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2012 3402RL Salvage title (flood?) Setup in Santa Rosa NM
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Old 06-18-2022, 03:53 PM   #23
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Before you can reliably operate the hydraulics, you will have to address the fluid leak. The red lights on the leveling system panel are just indicators that those areas are low, and once the rig is level, they should go out. Be aware that how you get 120 volts to the two hot legs of the panel doesn't matter, so the source can be 120/240 volts, or can be 208Y/120 volts. Either one will work, and our rig still has the sticker that says so next to the receptacle where the shore cable plugs into at the back of the rig. When you get shore power connected, if the converter is working properly, you should see about 13.6 volts DC.

The converter that makes DC power is located in the same panel where your 12 volt fuses are located and the 120 volt AC breakers are too. It is the side of the panel that has vents and you can see a couple of fans through the vents. This is the link to the current manual for the PD4500 panel with the converter built in, yours will be the 90 amp model, but just ignore the parts talking about a Lithium switch as these didn't have that feature in 2012. https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/po...s/4500-series/
This is the link to the Lippert manual that covers the hydraulic leveling system and everything else that Lippert makes on your rig. https://support.lci1.com/master-owners-manual-towing.


As questions arise, continue to post them and answers will be provided. Good luck.


A fellow 2012 3402 owner,
Bob
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Old 06-18-2022, 04:04 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
......The converter that makes DC power is located in the same panel where your 12 volt fuses are located and the 120 volt AC breakers are too....
So Bob, just for my edification, unlike the old 3400, the 3402 has the integrated power panel and it is NOT located in the bathroom?
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Old 06-18-2022, 06:16 PM   #25
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First off welcome to the forum and second, I am so sorry to hear about your home. I hope you get compensated by whoever was responsible, or at least your insurance takes care of you, and I hope you get your leveler issue worked out.
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Old 06-18-2022, 06:29 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Carl n Susan View Post
So Bob, just for my edification, unlike the old 3400, they 3402 has the integrated power panel and it is NOT located in the bathroom?

It is also located in the bathroom of the 3402, up high on the wall behind the toilet. The void behind the wall is above the entry closet where the washer/dryer prep area is located. This is the panel hanging by the wiring with the EMS wired in, ready to mount the EMS on the outer wall. The second photo is the mess of wiring in that void.
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Old 06-19-2022, 07:52 AM   #27
BrianVer2
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Hydraulic fittings. I need to buy a new line for the office slide. I'm hopeful 25' will do. As far as the ends are concerned what type of fittings does the 3402 use? Is it feasible to purchase a crimp tool for these connectors, or do I need to get the hydraulic line pre-configured? Where is a good place to buy parts for our Montanas? Now that I've worked on this rig a few times with y'alls help, most everything is clarifying for me. I finally got the awning out, yay! It needs to be cleaned, I'll have to research that process at some point.
Thanks for the links to the manuals. I'll dig into those ASAP. At the moment it is already getting hot outside and I need to find a way to disable the leaking hydraulic line, so I can get the jacks down.
I see two colors of hoses; orange and yellow. I'll go re-check those colors now.
Thank you all for the tremendous amount of help and quick responses.
Brian Rodgers
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Old 06-19-2022, 08:06 AM   #28
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Sounds like someone changed some of the hoses. Original should have been Orange for supply and Black for return.
Many Auto part stores can do hydraulic hoses.
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Old 06-19-2022, 08:59 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by mhs4771 View Post
Sounds like someone changed some of the hoses. Original should have been Orange for supply and Black for return.
Many Auto part stores can do hydraulic hoses.
I was wrong, they orange and black. We traced the orange from the office slide cylinder to the control panel up front on the left side. I guess I'll tie a string to the end so I can fish the repaired or replaced hose back where it went. I'm thinking since this is Sunday I'll put a small copper disk from my jewelry supplies to block it off for now.
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Old 06-19-2022, 10:02 AM   #30
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As for getting the jacks down (if they are electric) for the front you can do what I did when a landing gear went out. I put a small hydraulic jack on the bed of the truck and Jacked the hitchpin up until I could unhitch. I could lower the jacks without the weight ok, Then drive out from the hitch.
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Old 06-19-2022, 12:12 PM   #31
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His jacks and slides are all hydraulic, no electric except what runs the hydraulic pump. When replacing the hose or hoses, you may have a hard time finding the same thin hydraulic lines like what is installed. I had a short line replaced a number of years ago and had the line made at an autoparts store that also served the agricultural community. They had the same fittings that will fit the fittings on the jacks. These are photos of the bad hose and then the new hose installed.
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Old 06-19-2022, 01:14 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
His jacks and slides are all hydraulic, no electric except what runs the hydraulic pump. When replacing the hose or hoses, you may have a hard time finding the same thin hydraulic lines like what is installed. I had a short line replaced a number of years ago and had the line made at an autoparts store that also served the agricultural community. They had the same fittings that will fit the fittings on the jacks. These are photos of the bad hose and then the new hose installed.
Cool and thank you. For some reason the orange line feeding the inner side of the hydraulic cylinder to the office slide completely came apart in a section for about two feet. Outer jacket split open and large pieces shed like a snake skin. It being Sunday and no parts stores are open in Santa Rosa NM I wanted to disable that cylinder by plugging the line at the control panel as well as the black line which has a "T" on it. Unless my copper disks aren't working at all it seems like the leak got way worse. Plus the office slider moved(retracted) What the heck am I doing wrong? Also all the knobs in the front panel pertaining to the sliders are in the off position, yet somehow the affected slide moved. It takes a lot for me to lose my patience working on mechanical systems, but this is coming close.
Adding to the stress and strain there isn't a flexible sewer pipe for this rig. The previous owner had it plumbed with 3" S&D pipe, which I forgot to grab before leaving Las Vegas NM, doh! Of course I had no idea leveling this RV was going to be so difficult.. If we can make to Monday there is an RV parts store on old route 66 which runs through town.
That line from the Kenny Rogers song The Gambler "You've got to know when to hold 'em
Know when to fold 'em
Know when to walk away
And know when to run
You never count your money
When you're sittin' at the table
There'll be time enough for countin'
When the dealin's done
is running through my mind right now

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Old 06-19-2022, 01:23 PM   #33
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Look at it this way, you have an older unit that sounds like it's been through the wringer.
If you've read many of the post here, there are Folks with brand new out of the box units with major problems.
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Old 06-19-2022, 02:24 PM   #34
Carl n Susan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianVer2 View Post
Hydraulic fittings. I need to buy a new line for the office slide. I'm hopeful 25' will do. As far as the ends are concerned what type of fittings does the 3402 use? Is it feasible to purchase a crimp tool for these connectors, or do I need to get the hydraulic line pre-configured? Where is a good place to buy parts for our Montanas? Now that I've worked on this rig a few times with y'alls help, most everything is clarifying for me. I finally got the awning out, yay! It needs to be cleaned, I'll have to research that process at some point.
Thanks for the links to the manuals. I'll dig into those ASAP. At the moment it is already getting hot outside and I need to find a way to disable the leaking hydraulic line, so I can get the jacks down.
I see two colors of hoses; orange and yellow. I'll go re-check those colors now.
Thank you all for the tremendous amount of help and quick responses.
Brian Rodgers
Refer to Thread https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=87221 for info on the hydraulic lines and fittings.
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Old 06-21-2022, 07:12 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl n Susan View Post
Refer to Thread https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=87221 for info on the hydraulic lines and fittings.
I hate to say it, but that thread is pretty useless, especially if someone was looking to rebuild the cylinders.
Brian
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Old 06-21-2022, 07:39 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl n Susan View Post
Refer to Thread https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=87221 for info on the hydraulic lines and fittings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
His jacks and slides are all hydraulic, no electric except what runs the hydraulic pump. When replacing the hose or hoses, you may have a hard time finding the same thin hydraulic lines like what is installed. I had a short line replaced a number of years ago and had the line made at an autoparts store that also served the agricultural community. They had the same fittings that will fit the fittings on the jacks. These are photos of the bad hose and then the new hose installed.

The repair didn't hold up under pressure, darn-it! The issue is the outside diameter of the hose; it is too small for the crimper to squish the ferrules (jacket?)snug. It''s okay because this morning I've had an epiphany. I'll add two PEX ferrules side by side adding to the outside diameter of the the ferrule of the fittings the shop used for splicing the line where it broke. Unfortunately, I'll need to remove the line one more time to bring it back to the shop. The PEX ferrule isn't adding to the strength, only the thickness so the hydraulic crimper can squeeze the crimp end tighter.

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Old 06-21-2022, 08:42 AM   #37
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I hate to say it, but that thread is pretty useless, especially if someone was looking to rebuild the cylinders.
Brian
The key points to that Thread are:

1. the cylinders can be rebuilt but specifics on the seals is still lacking. This provides an alternative to uy the expensive new replacements.
2. The Cap and Plug info for isolating a cylinder is also valuable in the event you ever have a need.
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Old 06-21-2022, 08:58 AM   #38
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Information on the hydraulic hose ends
Lippert™ uses top quality material in its Level Up® Towable hydraulic leveling systems.
FEATURES

Inside Hose Diameter: 1/4"
Fitting Shape: Straight
Port: 1/4" Female JIC 37° Flare
More Information
SKU 138416
Brand Lippert™
Series Level Up®
Quantity In Package 1
Country of Origin IND
Material Type Carbon Steel
Sales Unit of Measure EA
Item Length 1.91
Item Width 0.65
Item Height 0.56
Item Weight 0.054
UPC 848150011633
Forest River Part Number 40E12155A
Grand Design Part Number 160006
Heartland Part Number 11864
Keystone RV Part Number 104113
Winnebago Part Number 203612-01-000
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Old 06-21-2022, 01:20 PM   #39
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I would not worry about buying fittings because you might as well throw away the old hose that has failed, after getting a replacement made, and a shop will have the fittings that will work for the hose that they use, which will likely be a higher pressure rated hose than the 'high quality' Lippert hoses.
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Old 07-16-2022, 12:53 AM   #40
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Thank for your help everyone. I finally got the hydraulics sorted out I made some mistakes in the first week of RV ownership: facepalm: I already thanked my wife Nell for the real turning point.She is so smart! We were supposed to disconnect the battery once we were on shore power, doh. No wonder the battery was draining. I was running everything on the inverter/ charger system. Lucky I didn't fry it.

And there's another wing-dinger. I thought I was being so careful when I was repairing battery cables or perhaps while I was trying relentlessly to get the front jacks down to start the Auto-leveling system. Somewhere alone the line I mixed up the two push-on connectors on the pump itself Well that helped, doh!

A secondary effect to the low battery power is the previous idiot owners replaced the 12VDC/120VAC refrigerator with a cheap version of a refrigerator called a Winia. Sigh, the whole time I was messing around with the batteries it was running solely from the RV's Inverter.

For the last twenty years I have researched whatever appliance decided to give us undeserved grief trouble-shot the problem and ordered parts.
I don't know if you noticed, but, corporations are at war with ownership rights. After Sears/Craftsman went under along with their wealth of knowledge, It's getting difficult if not impossible for repairmen such as myself to work on modern electronics.

So simple enough solution, right? Buy a new DC/AC fridge. Unfortunately, the previous idiots must have applied hydraulics to get that 24" wide fridge into the cabinet which is 23.5" wide! So yeah everything is normal and if not i completely, t's getting there
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