Refrigerator blown CB

[richeyb]

Dometic 1350SL refrigerator for my 2019 380 has blown the 15amp CB on the electrical panel and gone off. I replace the fuse and it continues to cool again. After a couple days I check on it again and the fuse has blown again.
I have been keeping the Fifth wheel plugged into a 115/30 amp service using a dogbone to keep batteries charging and the refrigerator cooling. Latest heat wave has temperatures hitting 100 daily.
Do I have an electrical problem or is the extreme temperature without AC causing my refrigerator issue??
Thoughts??

[DadsHemi]

Does your model frig have propane option. What all are you running on a 30 amp service

[richeyb]

Yes it has a propane option. However with out the 15amp power the frig control panel is blank. And I’m only running front AC and the refrigerator on the 30 amp line of power

[jimcol]

I'm guessing you have the battery disconnect switch in the disconnect position that is why your display goes blank when you unplug from shore power. If that is the case you are not charging your battery, but rather getting the 12volt power in your RV strictly from the converter. You don't have to disconnect from shore power to operate on propane. On your fridge display switch it from auto to gas. Your electric heating element on the fridge could be marginal and over time popping the circuit breaker. If that's the case it is an inexpensive and realatively easy fix. Let us know what you find out.

[richeyb]

The Battery Disconnect switch is Not in the disconnect position and shore power is connected. The fwd AC on and is cooling fine currently. The refrigerator panel was blank and the fuse marked interior line 2 was burned through. I replaced the 15amp fuse and the refrigerator control panel lights up allowing me to turn it on. And it has remained on and cold for 24 hrs.
Currently power is connected to a 30 amp 115 line through an extension cord and a dog bone. I have permanent installed Progressive Electric Management System installed. It readings show: line 1. 116 16A. Line 2 117. 5A. 6H. E 0
I’m not sure what else besides the refrigerator is on interior line 2, but nothing else is on.
Question on my PEM system. Is it normal to have my readings (line2 117 5A.) when connected to a single hot line via the dogbone??

[Carl n Susan]

Your 50 Amp EMS is unaware that it is being fed by a single 30 Amp circuit. It believes Line 1 and Line 2 are separate circuits but in reality they are the same input. I would expect both L1 and L2 to have the same voltage, but 116/117 is close enough.

The refer on electric draws a fair amount of 120V power. The converter is another large consumer of 120V power. I assume the hot water heater in not on electric. You can start turning off circuit breakers and you will see which one(s) are the culprits.

[richeyb]

Thank you Carl n Susan. Make sense…. I’m still trying to figure out how the frig is tied in to indoor line 2 fuse.

[jimcol]

I guess I am getting a little confused. You talk about a 15amp CB, that implies to me AC current then you talk about a 15amp fuse being burned through, that implies DC current. I'm not familar with interior/indoor line 2 desigination. The DC draw of the refigerator is very low as it is just powering the control boad.
Carl is spot on, as usual, with his description of your EMS system. Each line has it's own current sensor so a difference in voltage is not unusual.

[richeyb]

Sorry for the confusion, it was a 15 amp fuse not a CB.

[bcrvman]

Originally Posted by richeyb

Sorry for the confusion, it was a 15 amp fuse not a CB.

If a DC fuse is repeatedly blowing, that indicates a problem in that circuit. It's either a connecter or wiring or whatever is being powered, probably the DC heating element. After making sure all connecters are snug and not shorting, I would buy a replacement heater and do a swap. If the problem goes away it was the heater, if the problem remains it is not the heater but something else in the wiring and connectors including the board traces. Good luck.

[rames14]

So, since it is the 15 amp fuse, your issue is on the 12v side. If you are blowing the 15 amp fuse, start by pulling your fuse block and checking to make sure the wires on the back are secure. Next, do the same in your refrigerator compartment. I would check for loose/shorts before replacing any components. Best of luck. Just my $.02.

[5acresofchaos]

Is your fridge running hot because the coils and compressor need a cleaning? It may just be trying to overcome some dust bunnies.

[jimcol]

After tightening all electrical connections if you still have problems contact Dave Forest at https://rvcoolingunit.com/ContactUs.aspx. He is a wealth of information and can provide trouble shooting tips and supply needed parts.
I have no affiliation with him or his company other than being a very satisfied customer.

[uhftx]

You could try and disconnect the 12V feed at the refridg. Operate it with a jumper pack or a separate 12 V source fused directly into the refridge terminals. This will eliminate your internal wiring which I suspect to be your issue. Chaffed wire or critter chewed and the wiring from the fuse panel to the fridge is shorted Plus and minus together popping your fuse.

You can run a separate 12V feed from your truck battery with long wires or just borrow a 12V battery or power supply. The current draw is only to power the electronics. The refridge when not on 120V is run on propane. The primary power draw in this mode is to actuate the gas selinoid valve and run the circuitry for control.