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03-16-2006, 07:19 AM
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#1
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 50
M.O.C. #1764
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Dumb question
What are the ways to drain the hot water heater and which is the easiest if there is more than 1 way do do this? Thanks
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03-16-2006, 07:40 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: North Andover
Posts: 669
M.O.C. #1900
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by party of 5
What are the ways to drain the hot water heater and which is the easiest if there is more than 1 way do do this? Thanks
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Take the anoid rod out. (edit - make sure the hotwater is not hot when doing this as it will rush and could scold you)
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03-16-2006, 07:53 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cooper
Posts: 1,230
M.O.C. #3029
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The hex head on the anode rod requires a 1-1/16" socket. If it was not explained to you at time of purchase of your trailer, you should pull and inspect this rod about every six months and probably replace once a year, depending upon how aggressively the water has attacked the rod. The life of your hot water heater depends upon how faithful you are to checking the anode rod. Make sure the water is cold before pulling the rod. Not a dumb question!!!!
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03-16-2006, 08:25 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Mount Shasta
Posts: 1,488
M.O.C. #1685
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Also, relieve the pressure in the tank before removing removing the rod. You'd be amazed at the force behind that thing and far how far it will fly if you don't.
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03-16-2006, 09:35 AM
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#5
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Crawfordville
Posts: 146
M.O.C. #4328
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I didn't know the rod would go bad that quick. My rod has some pitting on it. Is it time to change it?
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03-16-2006, 10:24 AM
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#6
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Moultonborough
Posts: 449
M.O.C. #3268
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If the pitting is light, then re-install it.
After about a year, mine was heavy pitted and in one area, it was almost gone.
They are only about $12.00 and make shure you get the correct one, it has the 1 1/16" hex nut and the rod is about 10" long.
It is cheap insurance when in doubt replace it.
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03-16-2006, 11:28 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Down the Road
Posts: 5,627
M.O.C. #889
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The only thing I can add is "there is no such thing as a dumb question". I learn something new here every day and am so greatful for this group.
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03-16-2006, 01:14 PM
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#8
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Lake Wales
Posts: 83
M.O.C. #854
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remember to relieve the pressure on the system by opening the pressure relief valve - it also helps the tank to drain
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03-16-2006, 04:37 PM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Morgan City
Posts: 642
M.O.C. #2773
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Party, The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. Be sure the water is cooled down, remove the anode rod and inspect it. If not pitted badly reinsert it. You should flush the tank at the same time.
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03-16-2006, 05:15 PM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
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The length of life for the anode rod is determined by the water that is run through the water heater. For example, our first rod was completely eaten up in less than a year. But the next couple lasted well over a year and I replaced them when they were still fairly good just as a precaution. I think when you are full timing in your rig the water is continually changing and doesn't sit in the water heater for long lengths of time.
Orv
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03-16-2006, 06:13 PM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Leona
Posts: 6,382
M.O.C. #2059
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Good question, good answers. I am still lookin' fer th' dumb.
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03-19-2006, 01:50 PM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 956
M.O.C. #40
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I open the pressure relief valve on the water heater and then open the low point hot water drain under the trailer.
After this I sometimes pull the plug to check the rod and no water comes out.
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03-19-2006, 02:47 PM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,568
M.O.C. #4890
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Use a few wraps of teflon tape on the pipe threads when you put the plug-anode rod back in and snug it up. No need to over tighten and mine was way too tight when the dealer winterized it.
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03-19-2006, 04:26 PM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: sioux falls
Posts: 1,835
M.O.C. #2121
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Make sure to turn off the electric switch before draining the tank. Otherwise the heating element will get fried. The wife of the voice of experience speaking!
Pam
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03-19-2006, 04:44 PM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by bob n pam
... The wife of the voice of experience speaking!
Pam
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Cheryl??? Is that you? Oh, sorry, Pam. For a minute, I could have sworn that was my wife talking...
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03-26-2006, 07:04 AM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
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I think how long the anode rod lasts depends on the water quality. Our current rod is over a year old. After some folks had problems with the water in Mission, TX, I pulled ours. It is pitted but maybe 75% remains. My dealer showed me a rod and said when you see this inner rod (a small diameter inner rod) then it's time to change the anode rod. Otherwise, clean it off and reinstall it. So that's what I do. Bad water might wear that rod to the inner rod in a few months but so far we've not had much problem with this.
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03-26-2006, 10:09 AM
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#17
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kalispell
Posts: 937
M.O.C. #3113
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Did you notice that no one said gee that is a dumb question? Thats because we ALL HAVE BEEN THERE! Weather it is your first or just a newer model they are forever changing these things...So just remember there are NO DUMB QUESTIONS! Only dumb answers...None of which are ever given on this forum....
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03-26-2006, 03:09 PM
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#18
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Whats that... Somebody call my name???
*On Edit~ Is that bad if you start to see those penguins in your sleep??? I love em, but I catch myself staring at them for long periods of time. Come on... NOOOOOBODY else do that??? OK, fine! Where's my medicine........?
*On 2nd Edit~ Sorry should have started a new post... But I'm the one, who, after being told by a "brilliant" plumber (as I watched him pull and discard a REALLY nasty, strong sulfur smelling anode rod out of a home water heater) that, "Aw... you don't need these in your water heater", came running over to the forum here to show off my new found intelligence... I found out there are other plumbers out there... and they are smarter than the one I talked to.
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03-26-2006, 03:57 PM
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#19
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: sioux falls
Posts: 1,835
M.O.C. #2121
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Dave, Bob says, "Oh, good. I'm not the only one!"
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03-26-2006, 04:10 PM
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#20
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Haldimand County
Posts: 2,413
M.O.C. #122
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I don't think anyone has talked about getting the anode rod back in. I always find it a bit difficult to start the threads because rod sticking out on one side makes it is unbalanced. I find it helps to put the nut part into a socket attached to a small extension bar to balance the weight of the rod, then it starts much easier. (BTW, you will probably need to buy the proper size socket, it is worth the investment, even if you only need it once or twice a year - this one of those cases where the proper tool is almost mandatory.)
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