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02-08-2012, 12:59 PM
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#21
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Navarre
Posts: 1,527
M.O.C. #9765
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LIP sheet tells what oil to use. Use German torque!!!
Mike
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02-08-2012, 01:01 PM
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#22
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pagosa Springs
Posts: 3,711
M.O.C. #3120
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Michael,
Nice to hear from the horse's mouth....thank you, sir! :-)
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02-08-2012, 03:05 PM
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#23
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Benson
Posts: 3,121
M.O.C. #1658
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From Michael's post;
NOTE: Do not lubricate rack or pinion gear
teeth. Lubricate drive shaft only.
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02-08-2012, 04:09 PM
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#24
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 3,335
M.O.C. #10496
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Thanks Michael, I hadn't seen that sheet.
__________________
2010 3150RL
LevelUp, Dual 6 volt batteries, Progressive Industries EMS HW50C, Honda EU2000i Generator, Bridgestone Duravis R250 tires, Torklift Glowstep Revolution Stairs, LED Tail lights
2015 RAM 3500 Laramie SRW LB CC Cummins 6.7L Aisin Trans B&W RVK3600
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02-09-2012, 02:56 AM
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#25
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livingston
Posts: 350
M.O.C. #12009
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by simonsrf
For the past 5 years, I've used the Walmart brand of spray silicone that comes in the red can, costs $1.99 per can. It works just fine and does not attract dirt or grime.
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works great
__________________
2014 3850FL
2008 F350 SRW
David and Liz
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02-09-2012, 03:00 AM
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#26
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livingston
Posts: 350
M.O.C. #12009
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I have spottt rust on rails, any recommendations? Also does amyone spray the the whole underside? Or what about the nylon piece inside the 5th wheel?
__________________
2014 3850FL
2008 F350 SRW
David and Liz
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02-09-2012, 03:02 AM
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#27
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livingston
Posts: 350
M.O.C. #12009
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by simonsrf
For the past 5 years, I've used the Walmart brand of spray silicone that comes in the red can, costs $1.99 per can. It works just fine and does not attract dirt or grime.
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Is this the Liquid Wrench RV slide, thats what i use
__________________
2014 3850FL
2008 F350 SRW
David and Liz
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02-09-2012, 03:04 AM
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#28
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livingston
Posts: 350
M.O.C. #12009
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by CORattler
I know that after I clean and lube my slide gears and pistons they retract and extend smoother and easier. Just a personal observation and preference.
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by CmdrDewey
At the fall rally, Bob, from Lippert said that you did not have to and you should not, do anything to the slides. They do not need lubrication. He was asked if he really had just said that and he repeated it.
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yes they do
__________________
2014 3850FL
2008 F350 SRW
David and Liz
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02-09-2012, 03:06 AM
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#29
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livingston
Posts: 350
M.O.C. #12009
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sreigle
I usually wait to lube ours until they get a bit jumpy when moving. Lubing them smooths it out. Keystone Service Center said to lube them. But Lippert build them, so who knows. I don't know who is right. I just play it by ear and if they get jumpy they get lubed. Seems to me anything with metal to metal contact during movement ought to be lubed somehow.
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are those guys fulltimers in the salt and nooks and crannies
__________________
2014 3850FL
2008 F350 SRW
David and Liz
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02-09-2012, 03:10 AM
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#30
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livingston
Posts: 350
M.O.C. #12009
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by 8.1al
From Michael's post;
NOTE: Do not lubricate rack or pinion gear
teeth. Lubricate drive shaft only.
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ok when you say drive shaft do you the hydralic drive shaft? No Dumb question right
__________________
2014 3850FL
2008 F350 SRW
David and Liz
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02-09-2012, 03:17 AM
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#31
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Benson
Posts: 3,121
M.O.C. #1658
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Go to this and it explains where to lube. I do use a dry teflon spray in the sides of the large tubes which helps the slides run smoother
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02-09-2012, 04:09 AM
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#32
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Pugtracker
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sreigle
I usually wait to lube ours until they get a bit jumpy when moving. Lubing them smooths it out. Keystone Service Center said to lube them. But Lippert build them, so who knows. I don't know who is right. I just play it by ear and if they get jumpy they get lubed. Seems to me anything with metal to metal contact during movement ought to be lubed somehow.
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are those guys fulltimers in the salt and nooks and crannies
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Pugtracker, I'm not sure what you're asking. Sorry. If you mean are the Keystone people fulltimers, I doubt it but don't really know. They do know what works with their products and what doesn't, though, since they see the results. If you mean are we fulltimers, the answer is yes. If you meant something else, please clarify for me and I'll try to answer if I can.
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02-09-2012, 04:10 AM
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#33
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by 8.1al
From Michael's post;
NOTE: Do not lubricate rack or pinion gear
teeth. Lubricate drive shaft only.
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I was not aware of that but will avoid lubing the gearpack in the future. Just the rack. I wonder what harm it causes to spray lube into the gear pack. I know it won't lube the entire pack unless you move the slide while lubing but that's a different issue.
--on edit-- after looking at Michael's link it appears the gear pack should be lubed if it gets "squeaky" but with synthetic motor oil, not with dry lube.
And there's no reason, apparently, to shoot any kind of lube onto the teeth of the gearpack. Just dry lube the teeth on the rack. I don't see where dry lube on the gearpack teeth would hurt anything, though, and it seems to me that lubing those teeth as well as the rack teeth would reduce the potential of unlubed metal to metal contact. I guess this is why those guys get the big bucks and I don't.
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02-09-2012, 12:21 PM
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#34
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: South
Posts: 2,499
M.O.C. #5140
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Steve,
While the LIP sheet states to use Mobil 1 oil on the GEAR PACK points and nothing on the rack and pinion, some of the techs at Lippert have sprayed a dry lubricant on the gear pack points as a quick fix. I think the point is that nothing should be put on the rack and pinion especially because the rack touches the carpet as it extends and retracts...
I do put rust inhibiting lubricant on the piston to help keep pitting from forming.
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02-10-2012, 09:12 AM
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#35
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,376
M.O.C. #6575
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by snfexpress
Steve,
While the LIP sheet states to use Mobil 1 oil on the GEAR PACK points and nothing on the rack and pinion, some of the techs at Lippert have sprayed a dry lubricant on the gear pack points as a quick fix. I think the point is that nothing should be put on the rack and pinion especially because the rack touches the carpet as it extends and retracts...
I do put rust inhibiting lubricant on the piston to help keep pitting from forming.
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On our unit the rack gears re-track into a channel under the floor. I can't visualize them going inside the RV above the carpet, as the racks support the slide room.
I routinely clean the racks, and lube with silicone. I also lube the shafts in the gear packs per Lippert recommendations.
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02-10-2012, 09:53 AM
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#36
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rock Island
Posts: 1,074
M.O.C. #10457
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As is recommended by Lippert there is no reason to ever lub the teeth, just keep them clean. The shaft that turns is the only place to lub. You could extend and retract the slides umpteen times a day and not wearout the teeth in the round and flat cogs.
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02-10-2012, 10:24 AM
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#37
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
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What causes the jumpy motion that seems to be relieved when dry lubing the rack? It just doesn't make sense to me to not lube metal to metal contact. But Lippert ought to know. Still, I have to wonder why mine gets jumpy when it needs lubrication? Our last two Montanas have been this way. The first of the three had the cable system so this conversation is not relevant to it.
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02-10-2012, 10:47 AM
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#38
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,376
M.O.C. #6575
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sreigle
What causes the jumpy motion that seems to be relieved when dry lubing the rack? It just doesn't make sense to me to not lube metal to metal contact. But Lippert ought to know. Still, I have to wonder why mine gets jumpy when it needs lubrication? Our last two Montanas have been this way. The first of the three had the cable system so this conversation is not relevant to it.
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Steve, I actually lube the sides and top of the rack with silicone. The channel on ours has small pads that take the wear of the racks running in and out. I have found that lube helps smooth the operation of the slides. The inner end of the rack has a nylon roller. I sure wouldn't advise anyone to use grease or oil on the racks tho... too much chance of dirt and grit collecting. I really think Lippert saying not to lube the racks is probably another CYA statement....better dry than tons of grease or oil!
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02-10-2012, 03:14 PM
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#39
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: South
Posts: 2,499
M.O.C. #5140
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I misspoke about the carpet - I was looking at where we get wear on the carpet and slipped and made an incorrect comment. Sorry!
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02-11-2012, 01:45 AM
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#40
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,376
M.O.C. #6575
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by snfexpress
I misspoke about the carpet - I was looking at where we get wear on the carpet and slipped and made an incorrect comment. Sorry!
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Our slide clears the floor (used to be carpet)by probably an inch. Wonder if your slide might need adjusted? I know I had to raise one end of ours.... way out of level.
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