I read all the responses to this thread and learned a lot, and will be applying some of it to my aux fuel tank situation. I had a friend who is a master aluminum fabricator build me a 90 gallon fuel tank and he welded my aluminum across the bed tool box to the top of the fuel tank to house the fuel pump and the electronics for pumping the fuel into the tank fill hose. I use an electrical motorized ball valve with limit switch feedback for open and closed positions which are indicated with small LED green and red lights on my dash. I have two switches in the cab, one for the operation of the valve and the second for pump operation. I also have a fuel gauge to show aux tank levels. The gauge was housed in a 3 gauge Autometer mount that is on my dash top but now resides where the space is for the controls of the transfer case would be and was a blank space since I have a manual transfer case. I have engine oil temp and transmission oil temp for the ZF6 manual trans and differential oil temp for the Dana 80 rear axle. My fuel tank was built about 10 years ago and is fab'd from 1/4" aluminum and is welded inside and outside everywhere except the top cover. I had a 8" inspection cover installed so I could inspect it periodically. I use a 12v marine fuel pump and fuel gauge sending unit. The tank has a "roll over" valve and vent as well. I will be installing the 12V timer discussed earlier as soon as Amazon delivers it. Having had this truck much longer then I ever thought I would I have continually added mods that continues to improve it. Finally crossed the 100k miles last month and its still pulling my FW and boat very well.
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2003 Holiday Rambler Navigator 43PKD 500HP 11L Cummins ISM
2005 Keystone Montana 2955RL (sold)
1999 F350 SC (sold)
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