Lube those grey & black tank pull handles

[432bartman]

I easily forget to do this, and it caught up to me on this current trip we are still on. I went to open the black & grey tank while running the washer and discovered the black tank handle frozen. It would not budge at all. I removed the handle assembly from the wall it goes through, and with a hammer was able to tap on the handle to break it free. Liberal amounts of DW-40 were used and I was able to get it moving smoothly again. I did the same for the grey side. Our last trip was a month ago and in that little bit of time, the handle assembly corroded enough where it was frozen. One of the many things to remember to keep lubed.

[Dave W]

You should not have corrosion on that if a Valterra cable (Bristol possibly the same) as it's a stainless piece of wire in a stainless coil sheath. I suspect that you may have a set of tight seals in the valves itself (toilet paper or some other item). You might try some cheap vegetable oil down the drains (Walmart/~$5/gallon jug) and what I do at least every spring before our first departure (which reminds me...)

[Wisconsin Retiree]

I too use the vegetable oil regiment every other month. I dump thanks pour in vegetable oil and some water then slowly work my gate valves back and forth letting some fluid flow thru, close, open repeat it until empty. I have done this for a couple years now first on my Class A & now the fifth wheel. I believe it does serve a purpose I have not stuck a valve since.

[Cat320]

I've made this post on here before...I think, can't find it now...maybe it was a different forum. If Admin wants to move it that's fine. Here's how to lube your pull handles on the dump valves:

1. Turn the T handle so it is horizontal.

2. Drill a small hole, above where the T handle rod goes into the sliding part of the assembly where the 'blade' opens and closes to dump the tank. The diameter of the hole needs only to be large enough to perform #3.

3. Put the red straw extender from a can of silicone in the hole and squirt several shots through the hole....move the T handle in and out a few times and do it again. I do this every few months.

4. Seal the hole with a slightly larger screw...don't over tighten.

5. Repeat for the other T handle.

[432bartman]

On the portion that extends out when you pull the t-handle, that 6" of metal is corroded. I doubt that can be replaced without having to replace the entire cable assembly. If it gets to the point of replacement, I'm seriously considering the electric valve route. The other valve that is the main drain into your sewer hose, is perfect and operates with no issue.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by 432bartman

On the portion that extends out when you pull the t-handle, that 6" of metal is corroded. I doubt that can be replaced without having to replace the entire cable assembly. If it gets to the point of replacement, I'm seriously considering the electric valve route. The other valve that is the main drain into your sewer hose, is perfect and operates with no issue.

OK, I screwed up - well at least some.
I have a spare Valterra cable and did a magnet check:

- The center core is a very low magnetic stainless, probably a 304SS (doubt it's 316 which is the only other common magnetic SS)
- That 6" end is fully magnetic and probably good ol' steel tubing
- The outer casing is fully magnetic, and also most likely good ol' steel wire.
If this is a Valterra cable, you might be able to loosen the nut behind the handle and turn it 90* then loosen the nut holding it in the water compartment wall, then slide the outer casing back enough once loose then steel wool the corrosion off, lube and reinstall. Maybe!!

The worst part of trying this is that you need to remove that plastic bulkhead to access the back side to loosen the retaining nut.
Just some more of the joys of owning an RV

[DaveK]

What do you do when your valve is hidden above the external under belly covering?

[bsblindab]

Originally Posted by Cat320

I've made this post on here before...I think, can't find it now...maybe it was a different forum. If Admin wants to move it that's fine. Here's how to lube your pull handles on the dump valves:

1. Turn the T handle so it is horizontal.

2. Drill a small hole, above where the T handle rod goes into the sliding part of the assembly where the 'blade' opens and closes to dump the tank. The diameter of the hole needs only to be large enough to perform #3.

3. Put the red straw extender from a can of silicone in the hole and squirt several shots through the hole....move the T handle in and out a few times and do it again. I do this every few months.

4. Seal the hole with a slightly larger screw...don't over tighten.

5. Repeat for the other T handle.

How far is the valves from the handles

[DaveK]

Quite a distance. I removed the wall around my water docking station (where my waste valve pulls are) and tried to follow the cable to the valve. The cable disappears below and I cannot see the valve. My guess is that I'd need to remove the bottom cover under the RV. That's a last resort.

[Dave W]

Originally Posted by DaveK

My guess is that I'd need to remove the bottom cover under the RV. That's a last resort.

Yes, you at least need to pull the belly coroplast partially down. Those valves are probably paired together just above the midpoint of the belly at the lowpoint. If the belly coroplast is held up by screws, no problem. If by "nails", you can either twist them loose or chisel them off. Replace that belly cover using some self tapping screws and fender washers.

[DaveK]

I think you're right. It would be nice if manufacturers made them more accessible.

[Carl n Susan]

Originally Posted by DaveK

What do you do when your valve is hidden above the external under belly covering?

Assuming you have a dropped frame (adding the year and model of your Montana to your signature helps to get correct answers), accessing the two valves isn't too difficult.

The preferred method is to remove the screws at the back of the dropped frame coroplast. You also need to remove a couple along the sides then bend the coroplast forward to expose the valves.

Option # is to cut a 3 sided slit, with the opening towards the rear, in the coroplast under each valve. Where to cut is always a challenge but you can guestimate by looking down through the convenience center openings. Seal the edges back up using Gorilla Tape or similar.

[rohrmann]

This is how our rig is set up, both valves are at the rear of the tanks, elbows turn the drains to a wye and that line exits the drop frame belly and goes to the line you connect your drain hose to. The valves are right at the tanks.

[Cat320]

Originally Posted by bsblindab

How far is the valves from the handles

Not sure what you are asking. The valves are at the end of the rod that is attached to the T handle. If you have cables, I have no idea how they work.

[DutchmenSport]

For what it's worth, pick up an extra handle from your local RV dealership parts shop or order one off Amazon. You just never know when you'll need to replace one.

Mine are attached to the end of a cable. Arrived at a new campground yesterday and wanted to drain the kitchen sink tank. The handle was gone. Found an RV parts store about 5 miles from the campground, got a new handle and got it back on.

The Valterra handles are threaded. Mine has a pin run through the plastic handle and into the metal rod. The plastic handle just broke away, nothing there.

I had to clip off the remaining pin in the rod, and then the handle just screwed on. Tightened the nut behind it and all is well.

I'm going to pick up another one to keep, just in case. You never know.

I lost one on my previous camper once too. It was the T handle on a metal shaft. I picked one up and simply screwed the new one back on.