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Old 01-17-2022, 05:10 PM   #1
Rangoon
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Stuck (full) Grey Tank

Mrs. "Rangoon" here.
On my second gray tank in the back of the RV, the valve appears to be stuck tight - possibly rusted? I discovered this because the water is backing up into my kitchen sink and I'm unable to get the gray tank open to drain. I am parked in my backyard and not able to move the RV for several months. I called a helper but he could not do it either and was afraid he would break it if he pulled too hard. He said the underbelly looks too fragile to remove in this freezing weather, and even if he did remove it he would not know how to repair the valve or put the underbelly back together.
Does anyone have any suggestions for me or YouTube videos that show how to deal with this? At least for getting the water out? Possibly siphon it???
My helper said I'm going to have to wait till spring and just leave all that water in the sink but I don't think that's a good idea at all! I watched a YouTube video that said I could pour cooking oil down it if it was empty, but nothing about what to do when it's full.
(Background: this RV was my husband's toy -2016 Bunkhouse- but he died suddenly leaving it to me to deal with, and it sat in winterized storage for about a year+ until I could get someone to move it for me. I'm staying in it while building a new house, but I know nothing about the mechanics of it and I don't have a manual. So far I've had some very good advice from you people and REALLY appreciate this forum)!
 
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Old 01-17-2022, 07:22 PM   #2
twindman
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Don't know about your model, but many Montanas have the kitchen sink in a separate gray tank. The valve handle is very near the wheels. It is a rod with a handle and usually comes out the side underneath the rig. It goes up at an angle thru the underbelly cover (coroplast). You have to almost get on knees to see it underneath.
Oh, it is on the driver side.
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Old 01-18-2022, 04:32 AM   #3
RMcNeal
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Is it cold enough to have frozen the valve shut? You may need to turn on the furnace and get the underbelly thawed out enough to get the valve open.
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Old 01-18-2022, 05:01 AM   #4
Rangoon
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Yes,, twindman, that is correct - that's the one I have. It's stuck tight.

RMcNeal- that was my first thought, but I've been running the furnace all along;. Not impossible though, I suppose.
The connection to the handle does appear to be somewhat rusty where I can see it.
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Old 01-18-2022, 05:34 AM   #5
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Is the pull a solid rod or is it a cable? If it is a cable some have had success dripping oil or a penetrant, up around the handle, where the solid pull wire enters the outer sheath. Drip a little, pull then push the handle and repeat. As the oil gets further into the cable it may loosen things enough to open and close the valve.
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Old 01-18-2022, 06:21 AM   #6
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Just for clarification, can you share the year and model number of your unit?
Others with the same unit can give you detailed answers.
If you are in freezing temperatures, I highly recommend skirting your unit and putting a small ceramic heater underneath on lowest setting. This will help prevent freezing valves and pipes.
If your temperatures have been very cold, the valve could be frozen. Until you get the whole rig skirted, build a skirt using 2" styrofoam board just around the galley (kitchen) tank area and put a heater in there to warm it up.
If you have cable pulls (like in your convenience center) get some WD40. Put the straw against the joint of the pull wire and spray into the cable as you work the cable in and out.
Unfortunately this won't work if the valve has a rod like the one in the wheel well.
Try pushing in then pulling out, many times quickly on the stuck valve. I have done this when mine are very stiff at the beginning of a season.
If all else fails...
Get a long tube and a hand pump. Run the tube all the way down the drain to the bottom of the tank and pump it out.
You may need to call a mobile tech who may have other ideas to fix this. If you go this route, have him give you a once over on your rig regarding the workings of it and things to watch out for.
Good luck.
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Old 01-18-2022, 06:34 AM   #7
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Until you get it fixed do what we call "Boondocking mode".
For boondocking, we put Rubbermade (6 quart small sink) and Sterlyte (16 quart large sink) tubs in our sinks. Wash in one, rinse in the other. Wash water becomes flush water. Rinse water becomes Wash water.
Or use paper cups and plates and use them for fire starters.
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Old 01-18-2022, 07:41 AM   #8
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empty the sink as best you can and don't put water in it if the tank is full. do what the people above suggested. you aren't going to get anything done until someone actually gets under the trailer and opens it up....spring time.
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Old 01-18-2022, 07:42 AM   #9
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If you have the older style of screws holding the coroplast on you can just unscrew some of them near the handle and drop it down a couple of inches and take a look inside with a flashlight. If everything looks ok, maybe figure out a way to blow some hot air inside the opening then - not sure what you can use for this tho!
If you have the newer attachment method of rivets, you can pry them off (look for other threads about coroplast) and try the above also.
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Old 01-21-2022, 10:16 AM   #10
Rangoon
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Thank you all so much!!! We are trying the boondocking thing for now because it's very cold outside this week here in VA. Tried the styrofoam skirting but it blew away in the storm. ��Have unhooked the water hose and are bringing in jugs of water. Using the old water for flushing. I never thought I'd be doing this but it is actually working! I will find a mobile mechanic once it warms up a little bit. (I have a 2013 Mountaineer 346LBQ - Bunk house).
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Old 01-24-2022, 08:59 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangoon View Post
Mrs. "Rangoon" here.
On my second gray tank in the back of the RV, the valve appears to be stuck tight - possibly rusted? I discovered this because the water is backing up into my kitchen sink and I'm unable to get the gray tank open to drain. I am parked in my backyard and not able to move the RV for several months. ................
Does anyone have any suggestions .............. At least for getting the water out? Possibly siphon it???...............
(. So far I've had some very good advice from you people and REALLY appreciate this forum)!
Regarding need to drain now question
OPTION 1. With some peeking into underbelly your helper should be able to find location of valve on the tank. Cut access hole in corraplastic to it. Can tape or use tin to replace material on coroplastic when done.
Can disconnect handle.cable or rod that operates valve. If the cable/rod is problem then open. Valve by hand.
IF VALVE FROZE then a messy valve unbolt and grey water spill.to ground will be required.
OPTION 2. Under sink remove trap pipes so straight access into floor and tank. Insert hose down into tank and using cheap drill pump or MAYBE siphone water out side by running hose out the door lower than the tank.

Then fix problem with needed repair.
Good luck.
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Old 01-24-2022, 09:11 AM   #12
Pathfinder75
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Frozen tank valve type

Your drain valve should be like this cable controled Valterra TC172 72" Flexible Cable Kit with 1-1/2" Valve
It could also be a straight steel rod instead of cable controled.
Valve uses 4 small bolts to attach to tank.
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