Furnace Questions/General winter living

[NewenglandOwner]

New to being a full timer, Just bought a 2006 Montana (model 3400RL) Furnace kicks on and the blowers push air but it won't ignite. Try it three times and the safety won't let it kick on after. Anyone have any ideas? Thinking it's the ignition box but not entirely sure how to attack it. Also happy to take any ideas other full timers have to prepare for winter. We're parked in the White Mountains and it will be a cold one. Any info will be appreciated and helpful

[RMcNeal]

Maybe safety switch or the sail switch. Make sure there aren't any spider webs or insects in there too.

[jimcol]

Light a burner on the stove to insure the gas lines are not full of air. I think on my 06 the control board on the furnace flashes codes via an LED. The sequences of the flashes indicates the problem. Think there is a troubleshooting guide on this forum but I'll have to look for it.

[jimcol]

Follow this link to get to manuals that have been downloaded:
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=72602

This link is specific to atwood furnace:
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...?do=file&id=26

Good luck

[NewenglandOwner]

Originally Posted by jimcol

Follow this link to get to manuals that have been downloaded:
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=72602

This link is specific to atwood furnace:
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...?do=file&id=26

Good luck

Thank you! I really appreciate this! How would you go about accessing your furnace in the 06? It’s pretty well tucked away

[JLM]

More than likely sail switch. Could be bad or plugged up with hair , or other.

[masterdrago]

One of the things that caused ours to keep locking out after several retries was water under the air intake inside the unit. Could be seen when opening the outside door on the furnace. Got there during our first trip during a driving rain storm while on the road. Once I got that all dried out, it fired up.

[chenevb]

I had the same happen to me during my first winter with my 2018 Montana 3121RL, and as others above have posted, it was a faulty sail switch. The sail switch is a safety feature, so that if the blower isn't working, you don't have fire in an enclosure with no airflow. But when the switch fails (or debris gets sucked in the return air duct and prevents the switch from moving freely), then you have no ignition.

[TLightning]

In our first winter in our Montana we went to Wally World and bought two stand up Lasko heaters.

[R.S.O'Donnell]

Originally Posted by TLightning

In our first winter in our Montana we went to Wally World and bought two stand up Lasko heaters.

Same here. We used to use a ceramic heater in our class C but the element kept clogging with dust so we went back to an old fashioned wire coil element "milk house" heater. Between it and the electric fireplace we stay toasty even down as 28 so far. We don't run electric heat at night, we set the furnace to catch at 60. As soon as we get up we turn the electric heat back on and use the furnace to get temps back up to 70. The electric heat has had no problem holding it in the 70's during the day.



We just got caught in the freak snow storm in Colorado Springs and our system has worked well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CzPgtWp_oI

[decarteaux]

Prepping for winter here in Nevada (Fallon), so I've gotten a couple of space heaters on timers. Working perfectly so far. They kick on about 4 am so it's toasty by 5.


A little concerned about pipes underneath the unit, so I'm looking at an insulated fabric skirt with perhaps a small space heater underneath for really cold weather. If anyone reads this and has a line on how to do this, please let me know. Otherwise, going on to the interwebs for research.

[chenevb]

Originally Posted by decarteaux

Prepping for winter here in Nevada (Fallon), so I've gotten a couple of space heaters on timers. Working perfectly so far. They kick on about 4 am so it's toasty by 5.


A little concerned about pipes underneath the unit, so I'm looking at an insulated fabric skirt with perhaps a small space heater underneath for really cold weather. If anyone reads this and has a line on how to do this, please let me know. Otherwise, going on to the interwebs for research.

Comfort is important, and skirting will help. But even more important, as you acknowledge, is preventing pipes from freezing. Many have found it useful to have a heat source under the RV to prevent the temperature of the pipes and holding tanks to drop below freezing (which is when water expands and causes the damage). Consider wrapping exposed pipes with heating tape (the same as for a DIY heated fresh water hose). Where pipes go through compartments, I have successfully unfrozen pipes by placing (old style) 60W lightbulb (LED lights generate very little heat and will not help). As a last resort, leave a small thread of water running from your tap, and that will stop your supply pipe from freezing. But be aware that this could turn into a disaster if the drain side of things freezes up. Good luck.

[Daryles]

In the Forums there is a section called
"Burr, its cold outside. Winter living".
Lots of good info here.
Also FB group,
Let's stay warm together.
Good info.

[decarteaux]

Thanks for this. I've not been under the unit for the purpose of verifying exposed pipes. It does have the Arctic pkg, so insulation for the underside should be good. I'll def heat tape any exposed pipes and might use some foam wrap, as well. Looking for the right skirting material now.

[Razrbk]

A few years ago, I had RVSkirting, Peyton, Colorado, make skirting for my fiver. It has served me well through two winters. During the day, I’ve rarely run my propane - just use my electric heaters (monitor underneath with a remote thermometer). At night, I use electric heater in bedroom, close door and set propane at 55 degrees. If it’s going to get below zero or in single digits, I’ll put a Big Buddy propane heater and fan underneath, and small electric heater in cargo bay.

RVSkirting.com

[Rondo]

I haven't seen anything on purchasing some of the pink foam insulation boards and cutting them to wedge under your unit. The 2-21/2" size is the normal type used. Besides the wedging it you can also use some type of staking to hold it incase of winds. This will block the winds and if you purchase skirting this will add even more. To protect the pipes (water and sewer) from freezing even a small electric heater that is thermostatically controlled will help a lot. Just don't turn off the furnace because there is a vent or there should be one that runs from the furnace to the underbelly. The only way you can find it is by removing the back wall of the basement and looking into the open area behind it. It does not put a lot of heat down there but some is better than nothing. When it get really cold, open all the cabinet doors where there are water pipes. This will help also. I have put 2" pink foam insulation between all of the floor joists under the bedroom and above the basement area and also put the same 2" behind the wall and it really helps for both cold in the winter and heat in the summer. Daryle's suggestion of going into the section of the Forum here that is entitled "Burr, It's Cold Outside" is excellent because there are a lot of suggestions there to help you live in the unit in the winter where it is cold. Good luck and hope everything works out for you over this winter in the cold!