Screw pushing up under the EPDM roof membrane

[Ernrays]

This forum has saved me a ton of money, keeping me from doing repairs the wrong way. In searching the web and this forum, I haven't found a consensus on fixing a potential problem under the EPDM membrane of my roof (which is over 15 years old).

Take a look at the attached picture. I think that it is a screw that is working itself out. It hasn't poked through the membrane yet, but it is a concern. It is located about a 24" behind the front and 12" inside of the edge of the Montana.

Questions: Do I need to fix it? If so, how should I fix it?

The only thread I found said to (1) cut a small slit in the EPDM, (2) remove the screw, (3) put some Dicor in the screw hole, (4) put the screw back in the hole and add more Dicor, (5) then push the EPDM membrane back together and cover the area with more Dicor (self leveling).

Pretty simple, but should I be cutting the EPDM membrane? Other than this, the roof looks reasonably good given its age except for a number of small (about the size of a quarter) bubbles near the edges on both sides.

Thx, and safe travels....

[Foldbak]

Originally Posted by Ernrays

This forum has saved me a ton of money, keeping me from doing repairs the wrong way. In searching the web and this forum, I haven't found a consensus on fixing a potential problem under the EPDM membrane of my roof (which is over 15 years old).

Take a look at the attached picture. I think that it is a screw that is working itself out. It hasn't poked through the membrane yet, but it is a concern. It is located about a 24" behind the front and 12" inside of the edge of the Montana.

Questions: Do I need to fix it? If so, how should I fix it?

The only thread I found said to (1) cut a small slit in the EPDM, (2) remove the screw, (3) put some Dicor in the screw hole, (4) put the screw back in the hole and add more Dicor, (5) then push the EPDM membrane back together and cover the area with more Dicor (self leveling).

Pretty simple, but should I be cutting the EPDM membrane? Other than this, the roof looks reasonably good given its age except for a number of small (about the size of a quarter) bubbles near the edges on both sides.

Thx, and safe travels....

I thing that's a staple, could be a screw. I don't know if they used screws back then. You could leave it alone and chance it never comes through. You could Dicor seal it or you could call these guys.
https://wecanfixthat.com/
This is the company Keystone uses. They just removed and repaired 11 staples on my roof. The slice the area, remove the staple, inject a compound into the slice, apply the compound on top of the slice. Heat and roll it flat. It galvanizes to the existing roof. Same process for commercial roof repairs.

[Carl n Susan]

That is a staple as said before. You can wait and maybe it won't protrude. But it is easy to fix yourself. A "X" cut of the EDPM, remove the staple, install a stainless screw (a little Dicor can't hurt), and cover the hole with Eternabond tape. I have done about 10 of these over the years.

[Foldbak]

You make it sound so simple Carl. That will be my fix once my warranty is up.

[Daryles]

Your (OP) instructions above is exactly what I did except I covered it with a 2"x2" patch of Eternabond tape.

[bshgto]

If it bothers you take the screw out and put a 3 inch square of Enterna Bond tape on it and forget about it. Get it on Amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/e9305-Eternab...id=13315091445

[Ernrays]

Thank you

[Ernrays]

Thank you. At least I am now getting consistency on the suggestions. This really helps.

[jking]

I had the same issue with my 2014, except that it was many staples along the top outer edge on both sides. I removed the top rail the secures the epdm and peeled back the membrane and removed ALL staples and replaced with stainless steel screws, then resecured the rail and sealed the entire roof with eternabond tape and then two thick coats of Henry's tropic-cool Silicone and it is water-tight and about 15+ degrees cooler inside in the summer (and warmer in winter)! I also covered the shower moonroof and the vent covers! two rolls of tape and one 5 gal bucket of silicone. I posted a video called "Solar system 3" on Youtube at RV FOOLS !

[Ernrays]

Thanks for the reply. I took care of the single staple as others suggested.

I appreciate your note on the Henry's Tropic Cool (or equivalent). That's going to be my next big project. At 77, I'm not sure how I'm going to get a 5 gallon bucket of Henry's on top of the 5th, but inviting a grandson (a Marine) to a fishing trip might just do the trick. Who knows, maybe I can pull a Tom Sawyer/Huckleberry Finn on a couple of willing victims. Again, thanks for getting back to me on what you did.

[mlh]

Why cut a hole in your roof to fix something that may become a problem. It’s not a problem until it comes through and may never. Wait until it’s a problem.
Lynwood

[bshgto]

Originally Posted by Ernrays

Thanks for the reply. I took care of the single staple as others suggested.

I appreciate your note on the Henry's Tropic Cool (or equivalent). That's going to be my next big project. At 77, I'm not sure how I'm going to get a 5 gallon bucket of Henry's on top of the 5th, but inviting a grandson (a Marine) to a fishing trip might just do the trick. Who knows, maybe I can pull a Tom Sawyer/Huckleberry Finn on a couple of willing victims. Again, thanks for getting back to me on what you did.

After reading this thread I`m going to put the Henry`s stuff on tomorrow as I feel it will seal everything up and help with the heat soak. Got it at Home Depot for $345.00 for 4.75 gallons. I did find you need to get it mixed at the store the stuff is thick and your arm will give out if you try by hand and padel. So after cleaning the roof with a stiff bristle brush and soap it`s ready in the morning after it dries out. This stuff is much heavier than a 5-gallon bucket of water and would be nearly impossible to carry it up a ladder sooo...... My suggestion and what I`m going to do is transfer about 2 gallons at a time on the ground into another container with a handle and take it up the ladder that way. Home Depot has buckets with handles in the paint section. We`ll see......

[GreG L.]

For me, in this case proactive is the way to go. When it becomes a problem it may be too late, the way my luck runs it would pop through during a rain storm.

[Ernrays]

Just a couple of things to keep in mind when you take 2 gallons from the 5 gallon container of Henry's: 1) the stuff is water activated and it pulls water (humidity) from the air. You need to keep as much humidity as possible away from the pail you aren't using immediately. If it forms a skin over the top, remove the skin and use the rest of it on your project as soon as you can. 2) If you're going to put two coats on your RV, then pay attention to the cure time and maximum time to recoat. It varies from product to product and I can't remember what Henry's requirement is.
Use disposable equipment (1/2"-3/4" rollers, brushes, etc.). It will make the cleanup much less memorable. Good luck and stay safe. One more thing, once you're done and the stuff cures, if you get up on your RV roof and it is wet, it will be very slick. Take care.

[RMcNeal]

I've heard about the slickness before with these roof coatings. I'm wondering if anyone has tried putting the sand like additive for paint to give it a texture so it isn't as slick?
Just thinking out loud.