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Old 04-22-2016, 03:34 PM   #1
dpam
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Hot water tank temperature-pressure relief valve

The hot water tank temperature/pressure relief valve was leaking water, so I tried to remove it and install a new one. I see there is some white plumbing tape on the threads and most likely there is some rust as well. I tried to turn the valve with a crescent wrench and a pipe wrench and I cannot budge it. In fact I tried so hard that I broke part of the spout off. I sprayed some rust dissolving oil on the visible threads, but still no luck. Any thoughts on what might work. I'm thinking the factory worker tightened the valve too much. There isn't a lot of working toom, so I don't know what type of wrench would work, or how a dealer would remove it.

 
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Old 04-22-2016, 04:12 PM   #2
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Wrenches are available. http://tweetys.com/universaltemperat...FUdbfgodnCoBtQ Most likely, the air pocket was not there, and that is what causes the water to drip from the t/p valves. In the water heater manual, it states:

WATER WEEPING OR DRIPPING FROM PRESSURE
RELIEF VALVE
You may experience water weeping or dripping from your water heater’s Pressure and Temperature (P & T ) Relief Valve when your water heater is operating. Water weeping or dripping from the P & T Valve does not always mean the P & T Valve is defective. As water is heated, it expands. The water system in a recreational vehicle is a closed system and does not allow for the expansion of heated water. When the pressure of the water system exceeds the relieving point of the P & T
Valve, the valve will relieve the excess pressure. Suburban recommends that a check valve not be installed directly at the inlet to the water heater tank. This will increase weeping of the pressure relief valve.
WARNING! Do not remove or plug the relief valve.

One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design. However, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater.
To replenish this air pocket:
1. Turn off water heater.
2. Turn off cold water supply line.
3. Open a faucet in the RV.
4. Pull out on the handle of the Pressure Relief (P & T) Valve and allow water
to flow from the valve until it stops.
5. Release handle on P & T Valve - it should snap closed.
6. Close faucet and turn on cold water supply; as the tank fills, the air pocket
will develop.
Repeat this procedure as often as needed to reduce the frequency of the weeping of the P & T Valve. If the weeping persists after following this procedure, you may elect to install an expansion or accumulator tank in the cold water line between the tank and check valve to relieve the pressure caused by thermal expansion.
Contact your local dealer for assistance.
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Old 04-23-2016, 03:03 AM   #3
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I changed mine. After 10 years it was like yours, very tight. Used a pipe wrench adjusted to minimize slipping and a long cheater bar. It was a bear but finally broke loose. I too broke the spout on mine. Don't worry about breaking it you're changing it anyway.
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Old 04-23-2016, 04:14 AM   #4
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When freeing a "frozen" bolt, nut, etc., vibration can break it free by tapping on it in several places.
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Old 04-25-2016, 01:38 PM   #5
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Thank you for all the input I received that provided solutions for the issue of trying to
remove a temperature pressure relief valve. I am happy to announce that I used all the
"removal" suggestions and they have worked. I was able to remove the relief valve .

Thank you




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Old 04-25-2016, 04:30 PM   #6
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Next time before you reef on the valve, try opening the flip handle on the valve and rotating it both ways. Sometimes stuff gets built up on the disk seal and it weeps. Rotating it knocks the stuff off and many times(not everytime)cures the drip.
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Old 10-06-2021, 03:27 PM   #7
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HI new to all this I have one that weeps quite a bit when reaching temp on the water heater. Just checking what is the best way to break away the relief valve from the heater?

Thanks

John
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Old 10-06-2021, 09:28 PM   #8
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Unfortunately, a replaced valve will do the same thing. It really is the nature of heating water in a closed water system. You may be able to install an expansion tank so the increased volume has some place to go.
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