Auxiliary Fuel Tank Question

[bshgto]

Originally Posted by TomCat

I have a Transfer Flo 50 gallon low profile tank (fits under my roll up bed cover). Automatically pumps fuel from the auxiliary tank into the main tank. It works in a way that your main fuel guage is accurate for the total of the fuel between the main tank and auxiliary tank. I have a mobile app that connects with Bluetooth to show me how many gallons remain in each tank at any given time. You can also get a display to mount in the cab that will show you the same thing. Taps into your ODBC port for main tank fuel information. Fuel line from the auxiliary tank connects to the main tank vent hose - not the filler hose. I have been very happy with it.

The whole Trax-4 fuel transfer and monitor system would be a great addition to any fuel transfer tank. I have over filled my main tank twice by not paying attention or got distracted and forgot the transfer was on ( I have a pump on mine connected to a up lifter switch) the main tank can only take so much pressure and it starts to leak out of the fuel tank cap. Talk about a mess. Trying to get them to sell me just the Trax-4 system to ad to my tank but so far no luck. Really don`t want to buy another tank after spending $750 dollars for the on I have.

[GreG L.]

I had a Transfer Flow 50 Gal. put in with the Trax3 and really like it, 86 gallons will last me all day if I need it to. Have a friend that put his own in with a switch to transfer, forgot to turn it off and lost allot of fuel, helped him build a 2 minute push button timer to fix that since we were not smart enough to figure out how to disable transfer if the main was more than half full.

[Montana Man]

One thing to consider is trucks have a rollover protection valve to prevent fuel from coming out while upside down. Any splicing into a fuel filler hose should be done so as not to disable that safety feature.

[richeyb]

I too had a Titan tank installed doubling my capacity. I first attempted to install it myself following their simple video instructions. I soon decided to carry it to my local mechanic who installed it for me. After he finished installing, he said he would never do that job again, but it came out great for me. My only issue is that I haven’t got the gauge recalibrated and have to go by miles traveled vs gauge reading.

[WhatExit?]

Well, I have a 6.7L Powerstroke Diesel so it's not the same truck...I went with an S&B Filters 60 gallon replacement tank. Best thing I've done to the truck and I've done a lot.

Build list:
https://ibb.co/dm8M2Rr

[dieselguy]

Thanks for all the replies. I decided to go with a RDS 45 gallon in bed tank because (1) this tank is only 9" thick and virtually makes no difference in bed usage. (2) because it is aluminum, and (3) because my truck is an extended cab and not crew ... there was only one under frame replacement tank available. I'd have to get un-retired and go back to work to pay for it ... Ha! Transfer Flo's setup is cutting edge, but well away from my price point. I will add that some companies shipping fees were an eye opener. It pays to shop around.

[Hornet28]

Originally Posted by GreG L.

Have a friend that put his own in with a switch to transfer, forgot to turn it off and lost allot of fuel, helped him build a 2 minute push button timer to fix that since we were not smart enough to figure out how to disable transfer if the main was more than half full.

I put an inbed tank in my brothers truck. I installed a pump and had an extra fuel gauge in the cab. To remind him to shut the pump off I also installed a flashing LED light in the dash. He drove that truck over 300K hauling RV's and never forgot to shut the pump off

[drjjj]

If you put the ATTA tank in none of this would happen or be of concern.

[bshgto]

I put an inbed tank in my brothers truck. I installed a pump and had an extra fuel gauge in the cab. To remind him to shut the pump off I also installed a flashing LED light in the dash. He drove that truck over 300K hauling RV's and never forgot to shut the pump off[/QUOTE]

Well at 72 I`m just forgetful. Transfer Flow won`t sell me the Tax-4 system to add to my tank unless I give them my first born for sacrifice to the fuel tank gods so to mitigate the problem I added this to the pump. Now I can time the transfer to any time period I chose once the signal is sent. I adjusted the timer to 20 minutes then it shuts the pump off by it`s self. So I start it at 1/4 tank using an upfitter switch and it will take it to 3/4 tank then shut down. All for $16.99 on Amazon.


Where`s the "That was easy" button from years past. Really the Trax-4 was just way over thinking the problem for way to much money and I guaranty you it will void your truck warranty.

12 Volt Timer Relay, DROK 0.1s to 999min 50mA 4-Mode On-Off Automotive Digital Delay Relay, Electric Delay Timer Switch, Cycle Time Delay Module with LED Display

[Hornet28]

^^72?^^ You're a young guy! How do you figure the Trax-4 from Transfer Flow would void the warranty

[bshgto]

Originally Posted by Hornet28

^^72?^^ You're a young guy! How do you figure the Trax-4 from Transfer Flow would void the warranty

You modified the fuel system with a non factory supplied and approved product. The fuel system is regulated by the Feds ( EPA I think ) you change ANYTHING in that system you`ve changed what the EPA has approved. The dealer will walk away from your truck.
Case in point ...I had a brand new 2006 350 Ford diesel. I put an aftermarket auto start system on the truck. Soon after the truck fuel gage would not go below a 1/4 tank. Took it to the dealer for repair when they realized that I had put an aftermarket auto start on the truck that was effecting the fuel gage they came out with this official Ford document that basically stated and any electronic modification or other wise that effects the fuel system voids the trucks warranty, period no exceptions. I just let it go and put up with it till I sold the truck.
You have modified the fuel system by adding another fuel pump to the factory tank which could over pressurized the system and leak (just like mine did). Even with a gravity feed the head pressure of 45 to 80 gallons of fuel will cause you fuel cap to leak (mine did) if you forget to turn it off and over fill your main tank. It`s a safety issue for them full of liability problems. If you cut into the filler neck for your new fuel tank you have modified the FED approved fuel system. This issue came up on another forum board that the dealer voided the guys warranty for adding another tank in his bed and modifying the fuel system he had a GMC truck. I`ll see if I can find it and post it. It`s just like you can`t modify in any way the seat belt system in your car/truck. Some dealers may skip this but mine would not.
The sellers of these tanks aren`t going to tell you this. They have approved tanks for sale but also say built and used for no specific purpose. I put my new tank in my truck knowing this. I suppose you know that you have to securely bolt your new tank down and have a FED required roll over valve on the tank and no other modifications to the tank that would void the warranty or the FED/STATE approved tank. YMMV
This would be your tax money at work for you/protection....don`t get me started on that.

[Hornet28]

If you're worried about non factory voiding the warranty why did try to get a Trax 4 system? You put an extra tank in your truck do you think the system that you used is better and won't void any warranty?

[shovelhead86]

I installed a 37gal gravity feed tank that I purchased from Tractor supply. I cut the filler pipe to the Oem tank and installed supplied hose and fitting. Followed directions and I love it. I fill both tanks and the gauge starts to drop after about 350 miles towing. Then I fill the aux tank and if I desire the OEM tank. In my opinion it is the only way to go.

[Montana Man]

Originally Posted by bshgto

You modified the fuel system with a non factory supplied and approved product. The fuel system is regulated by the Feds ( EPA I think ) you change ANYTHING in that system you`ve changed what the EPA has approved. The dealer will walk away from your truck.
Case in point ...I had a brand new 2006 350 Ford diesel. I put an aftermarket auto start system on the truck. Soon after the truck fuel gage would not go below a 1/4 tank. Took it to the dealer for repair when they realized that I had put an aftermarket auto start on the truck that was effecting the fuel gage they came out with this official Ford document that basically stated and any electronic modification or other wise that effects the fuel system voids the trucks warranty, period no exceptions. I just let it go and put up with it till I sold the truck.
You have modified the fuel system by adding another fuel pump to the factory tank which could over pressurized the system and leak (just like mine did). Even with a gravity feed the head pressure of 45 to 80 gallons of fuel will cause you fuel cap to leak (mine did) if you forget to turn it off and over fill your main tank. It`s a safety issue for them full of liability problems. If you cut into the filler neck for your new fuel tank you have modified the FED approved fuel system. This issue came up on another forum board that the dealer voided the guys warranty for adding another tank in his bed and modifying the fuel system he had a GMC truck. I`ll see if I can find it and post it. It`s just like you can`t modify in any way the seat belt system in your car/truck. Some dealers may skip this but mine would not.
The sellers of these tanks aren`t going to tell you this. They have approved tanks for sale but also say built and used for no specific purpose. I put my new tank in my truck knowing this. I suppose you know that you have to securely bolt your new tank down and have a FED required roll over valve on the tank and no other modifications to the tank that would void the warranty or the FED/STATE approved tank. YMMV
This would be your tax money at work for you/protection....don`t get me started on that.

I can't speak to current law but it used to be a modification in one part of the truck can't void a warranty for the whole truck. Only the system affected. Nowadays, the fuel system is part of the emissions system and is warranted for 100k miles in some cases. It may be splitting hairs to tap into a filler hose but may be enough reason for a dealer to deny repairs on smog systems.

[Delaine and Lindy]

This is a perfect example of why I purchased a Transfer fuel tank, combo tool box, with a 15 rpm pump. I just don't want to cut into OEM fuel lines or any OEM lines. With all the computer's involved in todays trucks, one has to be extra careful. Sorry to hear about your issue. Hope it gets resolved.

Happy trails.

[bshgto]

Originally Posted by Montana Man

I can't speak to current law but it used to be a modification in one part of the truck can't void a warranty for the whole truck. Only the system affected. Nowadays, the fuel system is part of the emissions system and is warranted for 100k miles in some cases. It may be splitting hairs to tap into a filler hose but may be enough reason for a dealer to deny repairs on smog systems.

Went Christmas shopping today and decided to stop at the Ford and Gmc dealer and pose the hypotheticals to them on the fuel tanks. Ford says taping into the fuel filler neck will not void any warranties (he called some one)but you add a fuel pump it will. More so he said if you come in with a fuel related issue and you have steel fuel tank the first thing they do is scavenge the bottom of you main tank looking for rust and they will find it steel tanks rust. He says steel tanks are for the farm or construction that doesn't need perfectly clean fuel like your $80,000 truck dose. So use aluminum he points out. So you have voided the warranty by using contaminated fuel, period. You will need a 2 micron fuel filter on the new tank to prevent main tank contamination if you put it on the first day of use he says, that's if it works.
Semi related, if you have the dreaded CP-4 fuel pump and you come in with it destroyed and they find rust in your main tank they graciously bow out of fixing it under warranty. And further more if you put a CP-4 disaster kit on to try and stave off the destruction of the fuel pump you have voided the warranty he says. I even called the S&S fuel pump people that make this kit and they said yes it will void the warranty for the fuel system only though.
Stopped at the Chevy -Gmc dealer repeated what I told Ford and all I got from them was if you come in with an Aux. tank you have voided the whole trucks warranty. They didn`t want to talk any further about the issue, kind of rude but maybe it`s because I pulled in the service bay with
a Ford. LOLOLOLO
Personally I don`t care what the dealers say I put in a 63 gallon Aluminum fuel tank with an fuel pump tap into the filler neck, now with a cut off timer now, some time ago. If it causes me to pay for an issue, so be it. The extra fuel is a real bonus, for me anyway. YMMV or your Dealer may look at things differently. Go ask them.

[Delaine and Lindy]

This is another reason I went with the Better Built Transfer fuel tank with the Combo tool box. Four bolts removed, and the tank is out of the Truck. I have been around heavy equipment, Tractors, Trucks etc. for my entire life. I have never had and issue with rust, I have always installed additional fuel filters as needed. My relations with my GM dealer, I don't have issues. However, do what you think is best for YOU.

Great idea by bshgto, going to the source for information.

Happy trails.

[bshgto]

T.j. Skibyak
Registered
Joined Mar 12, 2019
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · Mar 12, 2019

So I took my truck a 2015 3500 CTD with the 68rfe with 78k miles that is completely stock other then a transfer tank to the dealer for an odd knocking sound. Zero other issues.

I have now been told it needs a complete fuel system tank to injectors due to metal shavings in the fuel.

The transfer tank is plumped through a 2 micron CAT filter before it hits the factory tank and both factory fuel filters are still in place.

They are denying the warranty based on the fuel system has been modified and are suggesting i contact my insurance company to file a claim.

I'm hoping someone here has some advice.


Thanks.

This type of response from dealers might just be individual dealer specific. But it can be a nightmare for the customer to try and prove your modifications did not cause the problem. Yeh I know the law says they have to prove the modifications caused the issue. Good luck with that. Want to hire a failure analysis company to do that for you and a Lawyer to take them to court, at what cost. Just like Keystone if you touch anything on the frame you have caused the issue and claim is denied for anything wrong. Go ahead and beef up the hitch on the back then end up with frame flex a year later ,they will boot your claim out. You modified the frame sorry, sport.
Like I said I don`t care what the dealers say about this I`ll just file an insurance claim and have them fix it any way.
Big fuel is good but proceed carefully.

[dieselguy]

Commenting on the void of warranty should one install a CP4 disaster kit ... the first thing I did after buying my 2017 was get insurance ... the second thing was installing a CP4 disaster kit ... being a long time wrench spinner, that move was a no brainer. A CP4 fuel pump failure kit itself runs @ $4500 of which @1000 of that is the pump. The disaster kit is advertised as saving downstream fuel components (lines, injectors, dropping fuel tank), so the disaster kit is money well invested in IMHO. Yes I know ... some are solely dependent upon a warranty ... I've been my own warranty for decades.

[Bad Moon]

I have an RDS 40 gal tank (also listed as 45 gal) with a cut-down tool box I attached on top. I use a Holley clone fuel pump to pump into the tank via a hose tapped into the 5/8” tank relief vent hose (I didn’t want to cut the filler hose, and fittings were cheaper.) I also teed an overflow return hose so I wouldn’t blow out a hose if I forgot to turn it off. I rigged up an RF receiver and a relay, to control the pump from one of the unused garage door opener switches on my overhead console. I also wired in a light that goes on with the pump, which I can see with the bed camera. Works great, and no CEL or codes.

Edit: Thanks for the heads-up on the warranty warning. If it comes to that, I can unplug the whole thing in 10 minutes. And no one will be the wiser.