refer problem

[GregN]

Refer has been working fine. Yesterday, after arriving at campsite I had an electrical problem. Lost power to half of the coach. Had this problem a couple of weeks ago, where one of the legs pulled out of the prong for the plug on the 50amp cord. Fixed that, worked fine. So yesterday after the problem, I pulled apart the plug and found that the white wire had been rubbing against the ground wire and shorted out. It fried the white wire pretty good. Trying to wrestle that 50amp cord and peel back the wire cover, I decided just to get a new cord. Got power.

Got everything set up. Found out one of my Wallys, would not work, and this morning found out the refer is not cooling. I have power to the refer, light is on inside, the control panel is on, but no cooling on electric, propane is cooling. Could there be a problem with the circuit board? I do not have a electrical tester to check.

[jimcol]

Could be a problem on the circuit board or the electric heating element has gone bad. You can check the element by reading the resistance. Easiest place to do this is on the leads coming off the control board going to the heater or the plug to the heater going into the chimney stack. You should see 30 to 40 ohms of resistance.

[C&P RV]

You don't mention the model of the refer. Dometic's have a glass in-line fuse on the circuit board that controls the heating element when on shore power. If it's blown it will probably be obvious without a multimeter.

And don't toss your old power cord. You can buy a new male end from Amazon and rewire it.

[GregN]

Sorry about that. Dometic DM2862.

[ChuckS]

On the Dometic 2862 is an inline thermal fuse..it is hidden with shrink wrap as shown in first pic.

If this thermal fuse opens up you will have no operation of the heating unit to make the fridge cool

You can use a multimeter and measure across the thermal fuse for continuity .. if it reads continuity it’s good, if no continuity read then remove the failed thermal fuse and solder in a new one