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Old 01-28-2022, 05:28 PM   #1
3121RL
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Water Pump Location

Rookie Here. Looking for the location of the water pump on a 2022 Keystone Montana 3121RL. With regard to winterizing I understand I have to pump RV antifreeze from the gallon jug through a winterizing tube that connect to the jug and onto the RV water pump . Just one problem .... where is the water pump located???������
Do I connect the RV antifreeze from the jug to the freezeguard connection in the " Convenience Center" and then go to the winterize switch and turn on??
 
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Old 01-28-2022, 06:00 PM   #2
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There's more involved than just pumping the pink. You need to attend to your water heater, low point drains, fresh water tank, waste tanks, and black tank flush line.

But to answer your question in a very simple fashion (just remember there is more involved), you connect connect a hose to the Freeze Guard port and simply stick the other end of the hose into a gallon jug of RV antifreeze. You then turn on your on board water pump and simply turn on each faucet to pump the antifreeze from the gallon jug through your pipes. At the faucets, once the clear water turns "pink", that line is done. You do this for hot and cold, all faucets, laundry faucets, outside shower, inside shower, and toilet (hot and cold). Once everything runs "pink" the lines are winterized.


However, as I said, there are other things involved too. You'll need to by-pass the water heater, drain it, take care of the P-traps under the sinks, take care of the black and grey tanks, as well as the fresh water tank.

But, to "pump the pink", that's how you do it.

Before "pumping the pink" .... practice with a bucket of clean water first if you never done it before. You'll probably need 2 gallons, maybe 3. I always have 4 on hand. I used 4 gallons the last time because this is the first year I winterized the (new) washing machine.
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Old 01-28-2022, 06:26 PM   #3
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3121, as Dutchman said, you don’t physically connect to the pump. The actual pump is located behind the black wall that joins with the convenience center. I have a short hose that I cut that I leave on the winterize inlet. As said, take care of your water heater and low point drains first. Then, screw a hose into your winterize port. Once you have a practice jug or jug of pink in place in the convenience center put the hose into it. Make sure your valves are turned properly. Water heater on bypass, and valve set to winterize. You may need a second washer for your winterize hose to get it to draw. Now, turn on the pump. It should start to draw, but you may need to open a faucet first. Make sure to run each faucet, hot and cold, until it is running pink. Don’t forget that you need all faucets - kitchen, bath, shower, toilet, outside shower and washer faucets (used or not). Then dump pink into each drain and the toilet. Remember, we all did this a first time. It’s a learning curve.
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Old 01-29-2022, 05:11 AM   #4
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Thank you. We removed water heater drain plug that has an Anode attached to it and drained the water heater ( also purged the relief valve). Completed all the steps per the Keystone Video but needed the how to as far as connections to pump the antifreeze in.
Thank you for taking your time to give a detailed response.
It's always easier if you know how��
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Old 01-29-2022, 05:37 AM   #5
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Thank you for the "know how". It's very much appreciated that you took your time to respond and will make it simple for us to complete the Antifreeze install.
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Old 01-29-2022, 06:28 AM   #6
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If you really still want to access your water pump, it is located behind the wall in the basement (pass through). There are probably 6 or 8 screws holding on that panel, and you may have 2 panels (left and right).

If you have not done so, it is worth taking those walls out at least once and get a camera and take a lot of pictures so you can refer back to later. There's a LOT of stuff going on behind that wall. You'll get a better idea of how the electric wires run (both AC and DC battery), plumbing, furnace and duct work.

Also, when you pull the wall, take a good look for light coming in through cracks, joints, under the chloroplast (underbelly covering), and take some time to seal up anywhere you see light coming through from the outside. This will also help mouse-proof those open cracks.

Try to make this open space compartment as air tight as possible. Doing this early in your RV ownership experience will save you a lot over time. There's a LOT of air from the outside that gets pulled in through all those cracks that rushes across the inside of the camper via the return air duct for the furnace (usually located in the steps leading to the inside upper level).

It took me 2 years to figure this out, and looking back wish I would have sealed all those cracks and stuff on the first day. We do a lot of cold weather camping and doing this simple thing would have saved us a lot of money on propane.

Good luck! And enjoy the Montana! Fiddling with them is (almost) as fun as camping in them.
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Old 01-29-2022, 06:30 AM   #7
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In the forum main page scroll down to
"Burrr, it's cold outside. Winter RVing"
Lots of details regarding winterizing.
I use my tire air compressor and an adapter on the freshwater fill port to blow out the pipes.

https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...archid=5878845
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Old 01-29-2022, 09:21 AM   #8
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I will do just that !! Seal and photograph .... let the fun begin !
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Old 01-29-2022, 09:22 AM   #9
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Thank you .... I will look at it and as always I'd rather do the prep and preventative work than repair work although I know that iOS all part of it !!!
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Old 01-29-2022, 09:52 AM   #10
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Like Daryles, I never use anti-freeze. Blowing the lines out with air has worked for us on two units over the last 21 years. The good thing with air is you never have to get the anti-freeze taste out of your lines or mouth. I Do use the anti-freeze in my drain traps.
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Old 01-29-2022, 10:04 AM   #11
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While you are looking at the pump, you might as well make it quieter. Here’s where we help spend money. You can put a piece of rubber under it to help isolate it. That will help. Or, you can replace the pump, add softener kit and an accumulator (what we did). We went with the SeaFlo pump, ShurFlo Accumulator and ShurFlo softener kit, mounted on a board and attached to one of the studs. Almost can’t here it now.
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Old 01-29-2022, 11:54 AM   #12
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Question for everyone- I have always thought that water lines are only a problem if they are 'sealed'. i.e. valves closed. The water expands and if there is no where to go, it bursts the pipes. So any drain shouldn't be an issue in my opinion as the expansion (like in the p traps) would just go up the pipe. Am I wrong here?
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Old 01-29-2022, 12:04 PM   #13
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The p-trap is there to “seal” the system from odors. Since it is hard plastic and it will start to freeze at the two ends, it would be possible to crack a pipe under some circumstances. Just being safe.
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Old 01-29-2022, 01:47 PM   #14
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That is good advice. When I walk around a RV Supply Store I always tell them I'm looking for something I don't need !!!!
Your upgrade sounds like a great one to do.


Thank you
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Old 01-29-2022, 03:05 PM   #15
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I upgraded ours to a ShurFlo. https://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-2088-...s%2C224&sr=8-3

Just as rames14 suggested I mounted it on a board with foam and replaced the hard lines to the pump with flex to isolate the vibrations. Much quieter now.
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Old 01-29-2022, 03:19 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twindman View Post
Question for everyone- I have always thought that water lines are only a problem if they are 'sealed'. i.e. valves closed. The water expands and if there is no where to go, it bursts the pipes. So any drain shouldn't be an issue in my opinion as the expansion (like in the p traps) would just go up the pipe. Am I wrong here?
Tom, just to add to what Ron says about the traps. I have done repairs to house plumbing that wasn't winterized. Traps do freeze and crack.
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Old 01-29-2022, 03:55 PM   #17
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I like it .... will have to upgrade and install
Thanks for the great photo and looks like a great project!
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Old 02-02-2022, 01:51 PM   #18
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I winterize ours with air. Amazon sells a great valve adapter for the water valve. Hooked up the air compressor and blew air through all the lines. Need to make sure you get all of the water out of each valve. I do the hot water and the cold water in each valve until nothing but air comes out. While air is flowing need to run the pump for about 30 seconds a couple times to make sure the pump is clear. After that i dump the pink stuff in all the holding tanks and in the fresh water tank after draining it completely. Then dump some pink stuff down each drain so the p traps are filled. Leave some of the pink stuff in the toilet so the seal doesn't dry out. This has worked great for us and we don't have to flush the pink stuff out of the water pipes.
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Old 02-03-2022, 10:25 AM   #19
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I believe in over kill, if it’s worth doing, it worth doing it right. I first by pass hot water heater and drain. Drain the fresh water holding tank. Insure each of the grey and black tanks are drained. Attach air compressor to fresh water inlet. Then blow out the pipes, not exceeding 50psi, opening each faucet until it’s all air. Remembering to also do washer and out side shower connection. Use short piece of hose connected to freeze, stick hose into pink jug, turn on water pump I then run the pink stuff through the pipes to each faucet I blew out. Add pink to each of the p-traps and into the black and grey tanks. Usually takes less than 2 gallons. I do not fill hot water heater or fresh water tank with pink. Never had an issue in the cold winters of Idaho.
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Old 02-03-2022, 03:04 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richeyb View Post
I believe in over kill, if it’s worth doing, it worth doing it right. I first by pass hot water heater and drain. Drain the fresh water holding tank. Insure each of the grey and black tanks are drained. Attach air compressor to fresh water inlet. Then blow out the pipes, not exceeding 50psi, opening each faucet until it’s all air. Remembering to also do washer and out side shower connection. Use short piece of hose connected to freeze, stick hose into pink jug, turn on water pump I then run the pink stuff through the pipes to each faucet I blew out. Add pink to each of the p-traps and into the black and grey tanks. Usually takes less than 2 gallons. I do not fill hot water heater or fresh water tank with pink. Never had an issue in the cold winters of Idaho.
I have never used the pink stuff as I always blow out the system with air. I'm just curious, why do you blow out with air if you're then filling the line, you just blew out with pink stuff?
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