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Old 04-26-2021, 07:35 PM   #1
julielm75
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Residential fridge no power

We have a 2021 Montana HC 377FL we bought in September. We live full time and even though I did not want the residential fridge I have loved the space. Today it does not have any power. The way it is placed in the slide we aren't even sure how to pull it out to see if it is even plugged in. We checked the fuses and all looks good. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!
 
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Old 04-27-2021, 04:32 AM   #2
RMcNeal
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There should be a disconnect in the battery compartment for your fridge. Make sure it is turned on if you don't have shore power. If you have shore power, check to make sure you have 120v at the transfer switch. Mine is located on the ceiling in the basement pass through next to the inverter. You should see a cord plugged into the inverter. Follow that to the transfer switch. I have heard of them failing, so the problem may be there.
Forgot to mention, check your breakers as well. Mine does not have a dedicated break for the fridge but is powered on one of the 20 amp breakers.
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Old 04-29-2021, 02:58 PM   #3
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Thank you for the reply. We still have no fridge but we were able to locate a mobile RV tech that said it is the converter. He also mentioned that our fridge could be fried because of the converter going out.
He did not have the part but our unit is only about 6 months old so we got a hold of our dealership and they are booked until Sept! I found the part on Amazon so I ordered only to talk to another dealer that said if we do that it will void the warranty. The dealer tech also said he has never heard of a converter impacting the fridge?
Now today our A/C is not cooling. Could all this be related to the converter?
If dealers cannot get parts for months (we were told 6weeks at minimum) should i just void the warranty?
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Old 04-29-2021, 03:15 PM   #4
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Sounds like you have shore power where you are. If you can see where the refrigerator is plugged in, skip the converter, and with an extension cord plug the fridge into a regular A/C outlet. That will tell you if the fridge is fried or not. If it is OK run it that way until the converter part comes in. Won't run on travel days but if you stay out of the refrigerator until reaching your new location the temps should hold inside the unit. You can put the new part in and run it that way until you can get it in the dealership, then take the new part out and put the old defective one back in to avoid voiding the warranty.
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Old 04-29-2021, 09:16 PM   #5
Ahdmeyer
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jimcol i like your thinking excellent idea . should not have to go that route but they force us to have ingenious ideas. what do they, keystone and the dealers expect, to go without the fridge till they find the time to get you in. hope it all works out for the o. p
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Old 05-02-2021, 09:08 PM   #6
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Not sure I agree that the converter would cause issues with the 120vac stuff. It's a basic breaker box for that a/c stuff. julielm75, did you ever get the reefer to run on a straight cord from an outside power source? Make sure to go back to the pedestal with a volt meter.
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Old 05-03-2021, 05:42 AM   #7
Dave W
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Just throwing this out - would it not be the inverter, not the converter.


The CONverter just plugs into a receptacle or is a part of the fuse box, for no better word, depending on how the OEM uses this equipment. Some are now a part of that power distribution box, a cost reduction.to the OE, not the owner.



That converter reduces the 120VAC and changes it to 12VDC which in turn gives you a charged battery for 12 VDC lights, etc.. An INverter does the opposite in that it takes 12VDC from batteries and changes it to 120VAC.


If there is shore power, that fridge should run as long as it receives 120VAC. If it wont operate, then there is an internal problem with it.



I just can't see how a failed CONverter could cause a failed fridge or how an INverter could do it either.


A note - if your HC has a stand alone WFCO 9800 series converter, my history with them isn't good. I've just switched to a Progressive Dynamics unit and hope my luck is better with them
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Old 05-12-2021, 04:38 PM   #8
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Check your perk power pole for a correct 50 amps service.
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Old 05-12-2021, 04:59 PM   #9
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Julielm75........

The previous replies all have provided good advice. Shows the experience of the forum's members.
I noticed you mentioned that your AC is also not blowing cold. That is strange and too much of a coincidence for my liking. Both the fridge and AC have to have a compressor running in order to create cold.
Is your shore power you are tied into a 50, 30, 20, or 15 amp service?
Do you hear the AC compressor kick in when you turn it on? It would have a different sound than the blower fan on the AC. Is your converter making a humming sound? (It should.)
This is leading me to think there may be an issue with your shore power. If you know how, I would check the incoming voltage at the shore power pedestal. Or......you may be tied to a shore power with insufficent amps available.
Sorry....I may be way off but something doesn't seem right.
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Old 12-03-2022, 09:39 PM   #10
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No Refrigerator or TV or bedroom Tv

I just bought my 2022 keystone Montana high country 377FL and now I have no working Refrigerator or TV in the living area or TV in the bedroom. It’s very frustrating. About a month ago my awning bent half into bc it started raining and it filled with water and slammed into the camper causing a dent out the side. Then on top of that, the insurance does not pay for the awning. I feel like giving up
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Old 12-03-2022, 10:48 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by loisabh45 View Post
I just bought my 2022 keystone Montana high country 377FL and now I have no working Refrigerator or TV in the living area or TV in the bedroom. It’s very frustrating. About a month ago my awning bent half into bc it started raining and it filled with water and slammed into the camper causing a dent out the side. Then on top of that, the insurance does not pay for the awning. I feel like giving up
No help with your awning issue - sorry. Is your refrigerator a residential unit? If so, then since your TVs are working either, I suspect you have an issue with you inverter. Try cycling power for the DC disconnect for your inverter (turn off, then back on again). The fridge and TVs should be on the inverter loop. Hopefully this gets you back up and running again.


Edit: Just noticed this was your first post. Welcome to the MOC family. Glad you found us. You'll find lots of friendly and helpful folks here.
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Old 12-04-2022, 04:47 AM   #12
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I would start at the auto transfer switch. On my unit, it is mounted in the ceiling of the basement directly adjacent to the inverter. It is a black box with a cord running to and plugged into the inverter, so you should be able to trace it back from the inverter to the switch. Some have reported having a bad auto transfer switch that was not switching over when shore power was applied.
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Old 12-04-2022, 07:34 AM   #13
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Try a simple test. Make sure your "Inverter" is turned on and running. Now simply unplug from shore power. Does the refrigerator now come on? If it does not, then the problem is the transfer switch.

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Old 12-04-2022, 01:21 PM   #14
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Ty. It is a residential refrigerator. I see the inverter but I don’t know how to turn it off and then back on. Is it a knob to turn, button to push or unplug somehow? I know nothing about what I’m doing Lol.
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Old 12-04-2022, 01:24 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by loisabh45 View Post
Ty. It is a residential refrigerator. I see the inverter but I donít know how to turn it off and then back on. Is it a knob to turn, button to push or unplug somehow? I know nothing about what Iím doing Lol.
There should be a battery disconnect. Big red knob. You should have 2. One for the actual batteries and one for the inverter. If you're unsure cycle them both.
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Old 12-04-2022, 01:26 PM   #16
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Mine looks nothing like this picture
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Old 12-04-2022, 01:33 PM   #17
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I do have a big red knob I turned off then back on and nothing happened. I also have a knob that is black with the words seaflo on it and it is off should i turn it on?
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Old 12-04-2022, 05:56 PM   #18
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There should be an on-off button on the actual inverter. There is also a red battery disconnect knob inside the back wall of your front storage area. Both need to be "On". What make and model is your inverter? There's going to be an on-line manual for it somewhere?
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Old 01-25-2023, 04:01 AM   #19
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Inverter power switch?

I am trying to find out if my inverter has a power switch? I have the transfer switch turned on in the battery bay, is there some other switch that actually turns on the inverter? A picture for reference would be very helpful. Thanks so much!
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Old 01-25-2023, 04:11 AM   #20
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Sorry I don't have a picture, but there is a push button on/off switch on our inverter that you push and hold for about 3 seconds to turn it on or off.
If you look at the picture here, https://www.rvautoparts.com/Magnum-C...AaAgXvEALw_wcB

there is a round green button. That's the on/off switch.
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