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Old 09-26-2022, 02:16 PM   #1
Lrazzano
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2022 Montana 3231CK Winterization

I have a new Montana 3231CK and was wondering if anyone had a sequence of events that should be followed when winterizing the 5th wheel for winter storage.

Sorry but I'm new to this...I'm sure next year I'll look back and laugh at my post.
 
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Old 09-26-2022, 04:53 PM   #2
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You need to first determine if you want to use the RV antifreeze (pink stuff) method, or if you want to use the compressed air and blow the lines method, or both.
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Old 09-26-2022, 06:13 PM   #3
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I'll help...here goes:




1. Open the low point drains in your convenience center (red and blue)
2. Go inside and open all faucets - sinks, shower, W/D water supply
3. Remove water heater cover and raise pressure valve relief
4. Remove anode rod
5. By now you should have water on the ground at low points and water heater
6. As an option you can spray some water in the water heater when its drained and get a good flush - step back if you do this or get wet!
7. Once everything is drained, close all faucets that you opened inside
8. Open outside shower faucets, you may get very little water out here
9. Close shower faucets
10. In the convenience center, turn water heater bypass on
11. In the convenience center, turn the winterize valve on
12. Take a short section of water hose and drop it in the pink stuff
13. Connect the male end to your winterize port on the convenience center
14. Sometimes it helps to use two (2) rubber washers at the winterize port hookup to prevent air leaks and difficulty in priming your water pump
15. Go inside to our control panel and turn on the water pump
16. With everything in place, put the bottle of pink antifreeze on a table or something to get it approximately 3-4 feet off the ground (this will help prime the pump
17. Go inside and open the 2 kitchen faucets
18. If all works right, you will hear the pump running and you will pink stuff flowing from both faucets - when you see pink, close the faucets
19. Repeat step 18 at your bathroom sink(s)
20. Repeat step 18 in your shower
21. Flush your toilet until it's pink
22. Repeat step 18 at your washer hookups - you will need a bucket or small catch can
23. When you have pink flowing at all of your interior water sources, you are finished inside (unless you have a residential fridge)
24. Go outside and open your shower hookup faucets until they flow pink
25. For steps 18-24, you will need to replace the bottle of pink stuff a couple of times (I usually pour my pink stuff into a 5 gallon bucket and pull from there - about 3 gallons)
26. For a residential fridge, you can cycle it about 6-8 times and get pink antifreeze to flow to the ice tray - or you can open the low point drain and try to drain it)
27. Turn off your water pump at the control panel
28. Return the winterize valve and water heater bypass valve to off
29. Check your anode rod and get a new one for next Spring if needed
30. Disconnect the water hose and antifreeze
31. Check ALL of your cabinets for items that can freeze and remove them
32. Crack a beer...you deserve one!
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Old 09-27-2022, 05:37 AM   #4
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That's a pretty detailed list!
If you prefer the compressed air method, you can still follow a similar process, except instead of using the pink stuff and the winterize port, I use the regular city water port and hook my compressor to it. Set the regulator to 40 PSI and go open each faucet and let the water and air blow out.
I put valves in the basement pass thru for the washer hookup, so I don't have to worry about them. I also put in a bottled water pump inside the coach for the ice maker, so the line under my slide is no longer charged with water, so no worries there either.
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Old 09-27-2022, 06:14 AM   #5
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This is perfect. Thank you very much.
I'll look forward to the beer at the end. Cheers!
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Old 10-15-2022, 10:07 AM   #6
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If I leave rv plugged in to power, do I need to leave the battery in for power to have a full circut? Prev owner left power on all winter (electrc mouse things) and left battery in. (Wisconsin)
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Old 10-15-2022, 12:08 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Bkuhn View Post
If I leave rv plugged in to power, do I need to leave the battery in for power to have a full circut? Prev owner left power on all winter (electrc mouse things) and left battery in. (Wisconsin)
No. I leave mine plugged in all the time, but for extended storage I disconnect the batteries. I have LiOn batteries and it is best if they do not float for extended periods. On the other hand, if you have a lead acid battery, I think it would be best to leave it on line; keeps it charged so it won't freeze and they do not have an issue with being floated. It is also ok if you want to remove the lead acid and store it in a non-freezing place.

If you remove your battery and leave the unit plugged in a couple notes:
  1. Insulate (tape) the positive connector so it does not short
  2. Do not try to run your slides or jacks without a battery. In most cases, the converter will not put out enough current to do so
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Old 10-15-2022, 12:15 PM   #8
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Here is my winterizing checklist. I also have shut off valves for the washer plumbing so I don't have to worry about those lines. I don't have a washer but the lines are still in place.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Winterizing checklist.pdf (245.6 KB, 63 views)
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Old 10-15-2022, 12:32 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by scottz View Post
Here is my winterizing checklist. I also have shut off valves for the washer plumbing so I don't have to worry about those lines. I don't have a washer but the lines are still in place.
Ha! Wish I had seen your checklist BEFORE I went to drain the water heater - grabbed a 1 1/8'' the first time. Would have saved me a trip back to the toolbox.
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Old 10-15-2022, 05:09 PM   #10
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Thank YOU! Ithink I will leave shore power on and battery in. Thank you!Bought RV, lot and Two Golf carts. Damn, put four… yes 4 gallons of distilled water into golf cart batteries (plates were showing) hope I can rescue them $$$ Thank you
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Old 10-16-2022, 06:47 AM   #11
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If you are concerned about flooding your batteries by leaving the camper plugged in long term in storage, then remember... there are some items that have parasitic draw on your batteries all the time. Your entertainment center is one of them and your CO detector is another. And there may be other items that draw all the time too. Anything that uses a remote will never be turned off completely, unless it's disconnected from batteries or AC electricity.

The parasetic draw will help balance out any overcharging, but may not be enough. So you could leave a couple lights turned on all the time too, which will help balance the constant charging vs discharging in use. (much like when you are actually camping).

I know all of our campers are a bit different and we all have different batteries. But in my case, we've had our Montana for a bit over 4 years now and it's been plugged in to shore power 24x7x365 unless actually traveling on the road. During that time, I have never had to add a single drop of water to my 2 batteries and they are still holding a charge just fine. I actually don't worry too much about them, check them now a couple times a year.... always good.

Now, we do use our camper almost 24x7x365 also. We are not full timers, but we are using our camper absolutely full time, on the road or at home! Even when home, there are days and day we never set foot in the house.

If you have the convenience to keep your camper plugged in while in storage, I'd do it, as long as you have easy access and can check things out often. If you are putting it in storage and it is not convenient for you to monitor it, then maybe disconnecting the batteries and unplugging from shore power is the best way to go.
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