Need brake help NOW!

[twindman]

Help! I leave town Wednesday and will be in some mountains for several weeks. Picking up the rig today, when I squezzed the brake controller to check the brakes on the highway there was some slowing but not much.
Is there some quick way I can check if all brakes are activating? Use a voltmeter or something? I suppose I can jack up each wheel and spin it and then hit the brakes, but that will take quite a bit of time.
Thanks for any suggestions.

[RMcNeal]

You can test for 12volt at each wheel with a meter while holding the brake or pull your emergency pin.
You can also have someone listen closely at each wheel as you hit the brakes, but that never works for me. Can't hear it click.
Unfortunately, the only real way to be sure is pull each wheel and hub. You could be getting 12v power and all working fine, but the magnet is shot or, like mine, has been destroyed inside the hub.
Spinning tires off the ground and hitting the brakes would be a better test, IMO because you can kind of see how much braking is happening.

[phillyg]

If you're unsure about the brakes you really need to take the time for a thorough inspection.

[ChuckS]

Since your RV is a 2013 when is the last time any bearing and brake maintenance was completed? Yearly would be the correct answer..

If I had questions about my RV brakes then I would verify I’m getting proper output from the trucks 7 way plug for the brake circuit.

If that is good then the wheels would be coming off to inspect the brake magnets, brake shoes, etc..

The trip is important but safety is paramount.. if yo7 can do the work yourself you should be able to inspect all four brakes and repack the bearings in less than 2 hours..

I just did mine and 2 Hos is about what it takes me every year

YMMV

[mlh]

I had a camper that did exactly what you said. We worked all day on it at a camper repair dealer. Could not find a problem and finally decided to run the camper up and down a four lane highway using the brakes every few seconds. They started slowly they started working and after a few miles they were working fine. We had the wheels off checked the magnets the voltage and found nothing the hubs looked good. We never figured what the problem was except we didn’t have ANY breaks to start with.
Lynwood

[Daryles]

I'm thinking the fastest way would be to jack up the whole rig, spin the tires, and press the brake pedal. Test the voltage and wheel drag.

Hope these links help. It is very easy and fast to change the whole brake assembly (5 bolts, 2 wires). Repack the bearings as you go. I had a brake fail while we were on the road last year. I save these links while doing my homework learning to repair/replace/repack.

Dexter axle Manual
https://www.dexteraxle.com/user_area...ice_manual.pdf

For the 7,000 Dexter axle with the 12" X 2" brake drum assembly, and E-Z Lube design, the parts are:

Dexter Manual pg 80.
Inner bearing- 25580
Inner race- 25520
Outer bearing- 14125A
Outer race- 14276
Wheel seal Dexter # 010-036-00, also known as 10-36, 3.376" OD X 2.25" ID double lip for E-Z lube
K71-305-00
National # 412920

Etrailer Dexter never adjust 12" 7K $414
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...3-464-465.html
Manual adjustment $175. 7-7-21
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...3-180-181.html
Dexter Axle Trailer Brakes - 23-180-181
Electric Drum Brakes
7000 lbs Axle. 12 x 2 Inch Drum
14-1/2 Inch Wheel.15 Inch Wheel 16 Inch Wheel.

Axle greese, Dexter
Www.dexteraxle.com
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=oeIJzoLJ2Go

Dexter bearing maintenance

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GnH-h3W9XvI

Brake assembly
https://youtu.be/9ulUMcC9Rc8

Dexter parts online
http://www.dexterpartsonline.com/product/K71-629-00

Dexter brakes
https://youtu.be/8J9i3pNUN84
Adjusting at 3:16

[twindman]

ChuckS, I have wheels packed and inspected yearly - just last fall (and only drove it about 150 miles since.
Lynwood, I have had that same problem almost every time it sits for a while. But this time they didn't improve. But I only tried the brakes maybe 4-5 seconds for 3 or 4 times. I hope they improve like in the past and yours did.
I am always suspicious about the wheels. My dealer used to be really good, but 2 years ago (they are supposed to rotate tires when wheels are off) and they didn't rotate them. So if they mess this up, they could just pack bearings (I hope) and not really inspect brakes.

I will see if I can check voltage today before it gets too hot (Mesa, az)!!!

Thanks all.

[BB_TX]

Are your brakes self adjust or manual? Mine were manual but it was a 2007. Only needed to adjust once in the 14 years.

I used to jack up one wheel, spin it to see if it felt like it might need adjustment, then pull the breakaway switch, and spin the wheel. It would lock up almost immediately. I then put the breakaway switch back in, drop that wheel, and repeat with the other 3. Manual actuating the switch in the truck at low speed on gravel drive and all wheels would lock up. On pavement none would lock but definitely had stopping power.

[dieselguy]

If you have a compass, a quick way to see if each wheel is responding is have someone press the brake pedal and move compass near wheel hub. If needle swings wildly ... there is power to that magnet. Also if you have a volt ohm meter with a clamp at one end for reading amperage ... each wheel magnet draws about 3 amps ... if all 4 are working you should read about 12 amps at the blue wire under your pinbox.

Using the breakaway switch and the signal direct from your truck controller is two separate power sources. One could be working ... the other not.

[RMcNeal]

Originally Posted by dieselguy

Using the breakaway switch and the signal direct from your truck controller is two separate power sources. One could be working ... the other not.

That's a good point! Hadn't considered that.

[BB_TX]

Originally Posted by RMcNeal

That's a good point! Hadn't considered that.

True that power is from different sources (truck vs trailer battery), but the two wires are connected in the pin box junction box and they both travel thru the same wiring to the brakes. Jacking the wheels proves that each brake is working, electrically and mechanically. Testing voltage to the brakes only proves the brake is receiving power but does not prove the brake is mechanically reacting to that power. That is why I test each brake individually while jacked up and then verify each will work from the truck by using the manual brake actuator to try to lock up the brakes while moving on a gravel driveway.

[dieselguy]

Bill ... we both have good points about brakes. Lotsa people read these threads and I tend to go beyond the OP's original issue sometimes to avoid readers getting "tunnel vision" about diagnosing things. Tom stated he wanted a quick and easy way of checking his brakes, so figuring he didn't want to go the route of jacking each wheel up ... I mentioned the compass or doing an amp reading. You're right ... to be sure each brake works ... jacking up each wheel in an absolute method. I'm sure you know, but for others, the breakaway switch supplies a full 12 VDC direct from the RV battery to the brakes when pulled ... your truck's brake controller supplies a varying voltage from 0 to almost 12 VDC from the truck's battery "if it is working properly". If one was to solely use the breakaway switch method, that would lull him into thinking all is well with the power supply to the brakes and start going off on some tangent to get a fix for his issue. I wanted to point out that if your truck's brake controller isn't working in part or at all, or if you have a pigtail issue ... the breakaway switch test could lull one into not checking the simple stuff first.

[BB_TX]

I absolutely agree that all suggestions should be considered. I sometimes over simplify my statements. And other times get carried away in too much detail. And on occasion my statements have been wrong. And have no problem being corrected. Or hearing a better solution.

[mlh]

I’ve been wrong here to. I like someone letting me know that I’m wrong. Every time I learn something.
Lynwood

[jimcol]

Originally Posted by mlh

I had a camper that did exactly what you said. We worked all day on it at a camper repair dealer. Could not find a problem and finally decided to run the camper up and down a four lane highway using the brakes every few seconds. They started slowly they started working and after a few miles they were working fine. We had the wheels off checked the magnets the voltage and found nothing the hubs looked good. We never figured what the problem was except we didn’t have ANY breaks to start with.
Lynwood

My brakes always operate pretty slow if it has been in storage or not moved for a long period of time. I have even moved the controller up to level 3 to get more braking. After a few applications of the brakes I have to bring it back to a level two or it feels like the trailer is trying to rip the rear end out of the truck. Discussed it with my local trailer shop. Their thought is the face of the drum where the magnet hits probably builds a little rust or residue while in storage. After a few brake applications the magnet burnishes the face and all is well. Sounds right, always works, good enough for me.

[twindman]

Follow up. I left home today and tested the brakes a few times after a couple of miles. They seemed to work well now! Sort of like Lynwood mentioned and how it usually had happened to me before.

[loadmaster]

After reading about everyone brake problems, I had the same problem, but I decided to remove the drum brakes and install in disk brakes on my Montana 2013 3582RL, that was the best move I could have done. The camper now stops on a dime now. It may have cost me a few dollars but the move was well worth the money. No more electric brakes to deal with.

I just wish Keystone (Montana) would install disk brake on all it's trailer's as standard equipment and get away from the electric brakes.

[jimc100]

Since you recently had the "bearings packed" you might pull them off and look at them to make sure a seal hasn't leaked due to poor workmanship and that you may have grease on the brakes. Also at some point you should make the switch to disc IMHO.

[Irv]

To the responders points about details, we had two break control modules replaced on our 2013 GMC Sierra 3500HD in the 12 months. The truck brakes worked but not the trailer brakes! And there are compatibility issues with some BCM’s and trailer brakes. There is separate thread detailing that experience. 😕